Cocobolo/Maple adhesive?


Tried Titebond II on scraps without acetone wipe prior and both woods failed. Wiped new scraps with acetone and used same glue and Cocobolo to Cocobolo worked but Coco to Maple failed. What next coach?
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Maybe try some moisture-cured urethane? Now, get out there and win one for the gripper! Tom
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yes poly glue is best don't use acetone but freshly mill/sand both pieces and dampen both pieces. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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Question on that Steve, me about to glue-up my bench top maple in the coming months, which is very hard smooth sugar type, very light colored, are you talking about stuff like Dap brand powdered poly glues?
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I usually use gorilla glue myself. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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I've used titebond III (that's '3') on cocobolo/cocobolo, cocobolo/maple and cocobolo/mahogany laminations in past year. Both worked fine. Never have used the acetone either - just do the glue up on relatively fresh cuts.
Gary in KC

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On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 15:28:30 GMT, "Gary A in KC"

did you check it though. I bet with a title effort the joint will break. hell it is hard to get a stronger the wood bond with gorilla glue on cocobolo. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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As Steve and Gary point out, acetone may not work, but fresh machining often does.
The reason for this is perhaps common knowledge, but the first I heard of it was about a year or so ago in FWW, where a cognoscens theorized that acetone may clean up a surface immediately (for a short time), but it actually made the surface worse within seconds owing to capillary(?) action that brought *more* natural oils to the surface.
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Haven't worked with cocobolo myself, but the prevailing wisoom amongt the luthier crowd is that you've got to use an epoxy with cocobolo because it's so oily.
--Steve
nospambob wrote:

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Tested the Gorilla Glue suggested by Steve Knight on scraps. Was able to pry the hard maple away from the Coco at the glue line but Coco to Coco wont budge. Using hard maple strip as a spline in splined miter for box with clasp per the Christian Becksvoort cover on recent FWW.
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:07:12 -0700, Steve <Steve> wrote:

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There is no appreciable stress on the glue in that joint, unless you are trying to build a packing crate capacity box, in which case, I suggest a different design approach.
I've made dozens of those joints, and the spline isn't going anywhere, once glued. Cleanup of the glue is the primary concern. I've used a method of taping the miter joint with blue tape, prior to cutting the spline slot, and leaving it there at least part way through the glue curing stage, so as to not have the squeezeout screw up the finishing stage.
Many of the boxes I worked on were walnut. Cocobolo should be beautiful!
Those boxes have piqued my interest, too. If I ever finish the list of cabinets for the house...
Patriarch
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wrote:

hum I don't think I never glued maple and cocobolo but you would thin the joint would be fine. I don't remember if I ever tested two different woods I think I only did same woods. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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Maple will be feet, splines and clasp for Coco box. Had a HARD time prying the maple off and it separated at the glue joint with no splinters showing. Box not expected to get hard use and am feeling comfortable with your suggestion on Gorilla Glue, thanks.
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:07:05 -0700, Steve knight

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wrote:

sometimes I get separation too sometimes not. one trick is to use enough glue so the surface is wet. more foam but a better bond too. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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