Closet organizer system

Hi,
I'm building a modular wall mounted closet organiser. I got my idea from http://www.organizes-it.com/orgdo-it.php - see the link on installation. I'm building the first unit 68" tall (16" off the ground, so top of unit is at 84") and 30" wide, from 5/8" melamine faced particleboard and assembling it with 2" particleboard screws (a la Danny Proulx's method). I'm stuck with particleboard, so ply isn't an option.
I plan to make the units "backless", instead using a strip across the back at top and bottom, as shown on the Organizes-It system installation link. Also, the units will have a top panel but not a bottom (to allow clothes hang close to floor). I'd also like to mount them in the same way described - Franch cleat. I think this all adds up to the makings of a very flexible, modular system, however I'm worried about the stability of the unit - it's got a top, but no proper back, bottom or fixed shelves - it certainly could turn out to be very 'flexible'! I'm also concerned about fixing the cleat to the unit - this will have to take the full weight of the piece - will particleboard screws be strong enough? I'd have never dared do this until I saw the diagram on the the Organizes-It site.
I'm thinking along the lines of using 3 x 3/4" ply for the strip across top and bottom (mounting it inside i.e. under the top), securing to wall (solid block) with 3 x 3" screws/lags through each strip, and sitting the unit on a 1 x 3 wall mounted ledger. This should cut down on racking. Has anybody done anything similar or have any good ideas?
Thanks
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I have used french cleats (lower case "f" intentional) and have found it a great method for shop cabinets.However,I think that you need some sort of backing to prevent the racking you are worried about for a large closet
We have a 6x10 closet that I would like to "organize" also. I have been looking at a lot of different designs.
A few months ago I saw a "Bob Villa" show where he & Riley built a organized closet out of stock 4x8 plywood. It went together very quickly, but the verticals rested on the floor - this takes a lot of stress off of the walls. I think that I would go this way.
Melamine would be my choice also.
Lou

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I work for a company that builds custom closets as a shop fabricator. Have also assisted the installers in setting these units in place. I build the units that are ordered so the installers only have to take to the job site and assemble. All the cutting and fabrication has been completed at the shop. First, we use x 14 Melamine for the strength. The panels that are hung from the wall, (24", 48", 76", 84", are notched on the back to hang from a metal hanging rail that is cut to length from 8' rails. We cut a 1 " notch at a 30 angle that matches the rail and the panel is hung from that. The bottom of the unit is attached to the wall with a plastic L shaped bracket (looks more like a triangle from the side) that screws into the bottom of the panel and then is screwed into the wall. This provides the support to keep the panels from moving side to side. If shelving is being used, we cam the structial shelves and place studs in the panels for the cams to attach to. We cam all the top shelves. The other shelves are adjustable and are set on shelf pins. We use two cam shelves on the 48" panels and 3 cam shelves on anything longer. You could use another means of permanently attaching the structual shelves. Check link for hang rail information I found on google search. http://www.easytrack.com/closet_storage.asp
CC

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Forgot to mention that we install a cleat made up from 2 X Melamine strips (edgebanded on the sides), attached to the wall and under the bottom of the units that are used for pantrys. This is the only time we normally would use cleats for support on the wall hanging organizers. CC

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Thanks for the replies guys. CC, your advice was very helpful - I wondered how the EasyRail system worked. Lou - I have an article I downloaded about building a closet organizer like you describe - contact me by email if you'd like a copy.
Thanks, A.
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