Clear Protective Finish

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.
I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice. I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)
Thanks, Bernie
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On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:02:22 GMT, Fred McClellan

Forgot . . .
EnviroTex Lite is NOT immune to UV damage, which is the case with most two-part epoxies, and therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.
Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
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Fred McClellan wrote:

If not outdoors, where the heck do you fly your plane???!!!! ARM
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wrote:

The .6 oz. glass cloth/epoxy is just the last stage of construction, to get a very smooth surface.
The models are painted, and that stops UV. Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
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Fred McClellan wrote:

I assumed that I was just trying to pull your chain. Actually, my wife's place of employment overlooks a building that you could fly your model plane in without any trouble. A co-worker of mine used to test parachutes inside it.
ARM
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wrote: <SNIP>

Ah.
Well, it's a nutty hobby and not many 'outsiders' have much of a clue about all the various types of models being flown these days.
The "Geezer Event" is indoor rubber powered models, and those guys are nothing short of amazing when it comes to building light and getting an obscene amount of flight time on a single wind.
Don't care for that discipline myself, though. I build giant gassers; my smallest model has a wingspan of 96" and it needs several hundred feet to complete a U turn at full throttle.
I could fly it in a large building, but all I'd do is fly itty bitty circles. Boring, boring, _boring_ ! <g> Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
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wrote:

Made the mistake of using epoxy on the foredeck of a bass boat. Showed the grain nicely, so we left it unpainted.
A year later the epoxy was cracked to pieces, rubbery, and peeled off the marine ply without any fuss at all.
Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
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If you want a finish, then I'd suggest Rustin's "Plastic Coating" or the various "Bar Top" finishes. You can also find these as floor finishes. Generally the bar tops are also heat resistant and the floor finishes may be more wear resistant.
These are acid-cure urea formaldehyde resins. Very quick and prettty easy to work with, but they stink like nothing on earth when freshly mixed ! Goes away quickly though.
I wouldn't use epoxy as an outdoor finish, as it's not good with UV. If you do use it, an opaque pigment will improve things. West System are a good high-end epoxy and very helpful with information.
The bar top finishes don't like being applied over other finishes, but they're OK over epoxy that was used for crack filling. Mix your epoxy with a filler before applying; glass microballoons (available cheaply from West) for a clear / translucent / white result or phenolic microballoons and a spot of green pigment to match darker timbers. The fillers will reduce the amount of epoxy you use, make the mix more viscous and easier to work with for crack filling, and make the hardened epoxy easy to work with a hand scraper. Over-apply and then use a #80 to take it down flush.
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Bernie, I'm a big believer in epoxy.
Two suggestions; 1 - a number of the 'Krafts Catalogs' sell a product for this task - 'KraftKote' is one brand and offered by 'Klockit'. . . www.Klockit.com
2 - I would 'go direct' to their probably supplier; contact System Three Resins . . . I don't remember the exact product, but they do have one, and they do sell to the public.
3 - my 'supplier of choice' is RAKA Epoxies . . . www.raka.com . I don't know if they sell a specific 'thick' product . . . but they sell just about everything else !!
Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
wrote:

SNIP
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