Cleaning up an old table saw

[Dave]

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 16:23:37 -0600, Leon

I didn't know they made ones with a metal component. Here's the plastic ones so he knows what you're talking about.

[Tom]

to have rendered most of the top serviceable. As per the tips here, I cleaned up the rusty goo with paint thinner, making several passes. I applied some paste wax because that's what I had handy, but I may try some of the specialized spray-on stuff later on. I may also use some naval jelly on the one really damaged edge of the right-hand "wing".

this saw. I think it may have come with one, so searching around may yet turn it up. But it certainly did not have a "riving knife", if that's the right term.

admonition never to be in the path of the wood. I've done just a little bit of research, and I'm wondering what the knowledgeable folks here think would be a reasonable and cost effective solution.

make two different splitters (although I'd also have to buy a zero-clearance insert) and their "Grr-ripper" (silly name, IMO). I'm sure there are dozens of others. I'm looking for safety and ease of use for reasonable cost; cost commensurate with my intermittent woodworking.

Greg:

You remember right, stay out of the "throw line" of the work. That being said, you can still get wacked by a "top of the blade" throw-back because the wood may come sideways off the blade. Don't ask how I know this. If you want to see it in action, just forget to lock down the rip fence when cutting a 48" square of 3/4 MDF. THe balde teeth leave really neat tracks across the bottom of the board as they chuck it at you.

The Micro Jig splitters work quite well, though you need to be careful in drilling the holes that they snap into in your ZCI . The splitter has to line up just about perfectly with the kerf line on the saw. Follow the instructions and you'll be OK.

Others will disagree (and some of them can still count to ten without taking off their shoes and socks), but operating without a blade guard of any kind is, IMHO, a bad idea. Sure there are times when not using one is maybe OK, but not having the option would be, for me, scary. Look at the Delta overarm guard ($$) and the Excaliber (sp?, $$$). Either may give you ideas on how to engineer some kind of blade guard that isn't too much of a hassle to use. I have a Jet TS and replaced the stock hunk-a-junk with the Delta overarm many years ago and I haven't regretted it. I also installed a Biesmeyer splitter that is great 'cause it's easy on, easy off. Neither may be an option on your old C'man.

Making a ZCI is not all that tough, especially if you have a router and a flush trim bit - just trace the existing insert onto a piece of baltic birch ply (a flat piece!), rough cut outside the line with a sabre saw (or coping saw), then use the existing insert as a template fastened down with double sided tape or even a clamp (that you'll have to move a couple of times) and rout around it with the trim bit. Make

1/2 dozen at one time and you can cut a ZCI for common angle cuts and dado widths.

The Grr-ripper may have a silly name, but it is a GREAT piece of gear. I have and use 2 of them on most cutting projects and on the router table. It's one of those things you won't regret paying for over time. The folks that designed it thought it through and it damn well works! Little things like the O rings that keep the threaded fasteners from falling out - brilliant and simple solution to a really irritating problem.

Regards.

Tom

[Larry Blanchard]

Yes and no. I'm in eastern WA and our wet/dry seasons are reversed. Humidity is very low in the summer and quite high in the winter. I just checked and the current humidity here is 76%.

With the dry summers we don't get much sweating of the metal but in the winter we do get condensation.

But as I mentioned in another post, it's filling the pores with wax that is probably responsible for the lack of rust.

[Larry Blanchard]

As far as kickback, a splitter or riving knife is all that's needed. A blade guard is to protect the operator.

My old Delta has an overarm guard that works well for ripping as long as the wood is wider than the guard. It's a pain for crosscutting because it's metal and heavy. The link below isn't the greatest picture, but it shows the guard. Shouldn't be too hard to make something similar. But make it from plastic so it's light.

another picture from the side:

[Keith Nuttle]

Phosphoric acid is a pickling agent use in the metal processing industry. So the slight coating of iron phosphate may last a long time preventing oxidation.

[Keith Nuttle]

As said humidity is not necessarily the culprit, as the percent humidity is a function of the ambient temperature and the dew point. The % humidity is a compares the dew point to the air temperature. A 76% humidity at 50F is not the same as a 76% humidity at 80F.

The dew point is the most important measure of water in the air. When the dew points reach 76F, it does not matter what the temperature it is, it is going to be uncomfortable, and you are more likely to have condensation.

[tiredofspam]

Sand that baby down.

I sanded my Delta down, I wanted the powermatic 66 look (polished, no mach>

[CW]

That may not hurt, but unless the fit of plywood to table is airtight and the plywood is sealed (and *not* with latex) I don't think it'll do any good.

In some environments it may even trap moisture.

If it works for you, great. But I wouldn't suggest it as a general solution. ====================================================================== It works very well. Even a cloth thrown over the table will do it.

[Leon]

And to take that a little further, Humid day and warm so the metal is warm. A cold front blows in bringing a 20 degree temperatures in 15 minutes. That cool air hitting the warm iron results in almost instant condensation on the iron.

[Leon]

[Han]

Leon wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Generally, warm and moist air hitting a cool surface is what cuases condensation on the cool object. Cool air hitting a warm surface does NOT give condensation.

[Leon]

Bull Shit!

[Norvin Gordon]

So, when it is zero outside and 70 inside my house with 70% humidity, the wet stuff on my windows (inside) is NOT condensation???

[Greg Guarino]

Do you use this in lieu of a guard? Sorry for the stupid question, but it certainly looks like you couldn't use both, except perhaps when cutting wide stock (when you might not need it at all?)

[Swingman]

Han is correct.

What you describe is the result of the warmer air inside the building hitting the colder surface of a cold window, not the reverse.

Condensation generally happens when warm, moisture laden air hits a cooler service.

When is the last time you saw condensation forming on a mug of hot coffee on a cold day? ;)

[Han]

Norvin Gordon wrote in news:jhb7aq$46g$ [e-mail]:

Please re-read what I said. Inside your house it is 70% relative humidity, and outside it is zero Fahrenheit? You must have 17humifiers going full blast!! No wonder that the warm, moist air in your rooms condenses on the cold windows ...

[Han]

Swingman wrote in news:HYednQTUE7i_saTSnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]:

QED

[FrozenNorth]

Yep, i have the humidifier set to try and maintain 30% in the winter, any higher and the resulting moisture on the window ledges and such can cause damage, unless I want to religiously go around and wipe them off at least once a day.

[Swingman]

And, it all depends around the "dew point" ... the temperature at which water vapor in the air becomes saturated and condensation starts.

It should also be noted that a "cooler" is relative. :)

[Keith Nuttle]

It is relative. If it is warmer on the inside than out, the condensation will be on the inside of the window. If the reverse is true it would be on the outside of the window. You can see this when you have a hot humid day and have the air conditioner very cold.

If it real cold, what about frost?