Cleaning Bandsaw Blades?

How is the best way to clean a bandsaw blade of resin and fine saw dust? I did some resaw work on some fresh green pecan biscuits and cut them into turning blanks. Its a "1 3 tooth blade 143 inches around.
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wrote:

Don't let it get dirty. This stuff may be running through two sets of roller guides, which'll squish it down hard into a layer of glue. Hard stuff to shift once it's on and set.
Best thing is a wheel scrubbing brush on the lower wheel to keep the tyre clean (heat-bent toothbrush) and wiping the band clean while the gunk is still fresh. Any workshop solvent should help. I use the ubiquitous acetone and yet another toothbrush / paper towel. Don;t run the saw afterwards until it evaporates - acetone is the sort of stuff that _can_ cause a DC fire, if you suck the fumes in.
Don't use "Muc-Off" (a popular mountain bike cleaner). This stuff is full of potassium hydroxide and it corrodes aluminium like crazy ! Anyone want one slightly charred looking bandsaw ? (not mine)
--
Smert' spamionam

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Use one of those Crepe Blocks used on sanding belts http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page 192&category=1,42500&ccurrency=2&SID

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Eisan, maybe this should be in the FAQ?)
Washing soda. About 1/4 cup of it, dissolved in enough warm water to cover a dishpan to a depth of an inch or so. Coil the bandsaw blade, and drop it into the dishpan. A goodly portion of the crud will come off before the blade even hits the bottom of the pan. Let it soak there for five or ten minutes, then wipe it clean. It's cheap, it's easy, it's reasonably benign environmentally.
Washing soda is available in many grocery stores, on the same aisle as the laundry detergent. Smaller hardware stores often have it, too, with cleaning supplies. Don't bother looking at Home Depot, Lowe's, or WalMart, you won't find it. If anyone is having trouble obtaining washing soda, email me at the address in my sig, and we can make arrangements.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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I found Water Softener like Calgon in hot water fast and safe.Just coil up and sit in the mix for 5 minutes or more.Brush with a brass brush if any will not come off.
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I looked up the name listed here and found an "old woodworking machine" FAQ and the FAQ returned in faqs.org (http://www.faqs.org/faqs/woodworking/faq/faq /) is only 4 years old.
I'm interested in putting together a FAQ collection, but don't want to be reinventing what I would think should already be out there.
I'm thinking something along the lines of http://www.faqs.org/faqs/model-rockets/intro/index.html or http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ /
So, the question is; is there a good comprehensive FAQ out there; and/or does anyone see this as a useless project?
(BTW, I write FAQs for a living, I make sawdust for fun.)
On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 02:38:10 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

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Not just anyone can FAQify the Wreck. You'll need references. We'll need to see tool receipts. Some shop photos would be nice too.
If Wreck FAQification was easy, I'd be doing it.
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Let me clarify a bit...
My question isn't if anyone thinks I can write one. I'm asking if there is already a collection of FAQs in place better than the links I could find. If not, I will be starting one.
While not "anyone" can write a set of FAQs, there does need to be someone to start. Someone else with better skills can always take over later and improve it. Besides, one person doesn't normally write a set of FAQs anyway, it's more of an editor's job than original writing.
Tool receipts in a FAQ???? Why?
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'Twas but a simpleton's attempt to satirize a Good Samaritan. Perhaps the best approach is just to "Plonk me, Jim."
But grant me one reprieve, because I am so curious. 1. How does one make a living out of FAQ writing? [ Do I need a degree in FAQology? ] 2. Whazzit pay? 3. Any chance of it getting outsourced to Bangalore? 4. Is there a chance of scoring some free tools out'a the gig?
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1. Look at all the companies out there that have FAQs on their sites. (Microsoft for example) -- they don't grow by planting alphabet soup in the garden ;-)
Actually I got a Masters in communications after retiring from the USAF a few years ago.
2. When/if you can find the job, it pays pretty good. 3. yep 4. I work for a telcom company - no tools :-(
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Which telecom company?
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
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Me too! RBOC? ILEC? CLEC? IXC? Ameritech (nee' SBC)? :)
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Can't have a reprieve till after you've had a prieve. Best I can do is this pet prieve of mine. <snicker>

Nope. You do need an appropriate collection of FAQ-toids, from which you manu-FAQ-ture the final result.

Less than a FAQtotem can carry.

Nah, that was tried once, a _long_ time ago. The project blew up in their face. (Don't remember if it was an explosion in the dust-collector piping, or the PVC for the air line, both of which were locally procured.) Anyway, this was the _original_ "Bangalore Torpedo".

Yup! A complete set of the tooling for making air guitars.
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Make that 'going on _five_ years since the last revision. *sigh*

I collect stuff, as I find it, at <http://www.r-bonomi.com/rec.woodworking/

The 'official' rec.woodworking FAQ is *seriously* dated -- many of the links are dead, and the supposed 'maintainer' isn't responding to queries. (I've written him, offering to be the new maintainer.)
Since I didn't get any response, I've got a 'from scratch' replacement on my 'todo' list, as time permits.

I`m hereby soliciting input from *anybody* and *everybody*. <grin>
If you've got a good answer for a FAQ question, send it to:
snipped-for-privacy@www.r-bonomi.com
in standard question/answer format.
Make sure the first word of the subject line is "FAQ", without the quotes, or you'll get a bounce message saying that that address does not exist It really does exist, it's just *highly* paranoid. <grin>
Also, I'm accumulating WW-related links. at:
snipped-for-privacy@www.r-bonomi.com
"WWLINKS", again, without the quotes, required as the first word on the subject line.
useful info is: (1) a 'short name' for the link, (2) the full URL, and (3) a one-line description of what's there and/or why it's "good stuff".
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