Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy laminated veneers. It does involve much more than cutting with a BS and gluing if your curved veneers are of significant thickness.
If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much material as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same for mating surfaces.
The video addresses that. I used 4, 1/8" veneers and removed 1/2" for each location. I cut the veneers on the band saw and sanded down to
1/8" with a drum sander. The trick to making a smooth cut in the board is to make a shallow cut against a pattern with a 1/2" bit and cut in the resulting grove with a BS. Then with a flush cut pattern bit against the shallow grove remove the rest of the material.
I noticed that in the video... seems so obvious once someone points it out! LOL
But then I've been playing with my shaper and doing pattern shaping. Maybe because of that I am more tuned into what was in the video than some others would be??
I actually used a small flush cut bottom bearing bit in my small Makita trim router to follow a pattern clamped to the cutting board. I took out most of the remainder 1/2" wide grove with the BS so that my cleanup cut with a 1-1/8" bottom bearing bit in the router table would not have to do much but take out what was remaining, up to the previously made grove using the trim router.
There are a lot of subtle things going on in the video that you need to consider, as you have noticed. ;~) I think I watched the video 4~5 times to understand how he got to where ended up and why.
I do recall him switching to a smaller bit for to follow a pattern when he wanted his inlay to be narrower.
I don't have those tools but that's the video I saw so I will find a remedy with what I've got
something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to be sliced up over time and break free it's beautiful work but the wrong application
I rarely use a router but I have two from days of old. There's bit he uses on the curve face with a bearing on the end. what's that doing?
Yeah but not a big problem though. They are glued in there so big chunks don't come out. Obviously end grain boards have an advantage.
He actually works each cut of the panel in 3 steps.
With the hand held router he cuts a curved grove using the bearing on the bit to follow the guide. This is strictly to establish the curve and to give a smooth surface for the bit in the router table to reference after cutting the panel in that grove. He makes about a 1/4" deep cut. This cut provides a smooth surface on both halves, after cutting apart with the BS, which will be his reference surface for the flush cut bearing bit in the router table to follow instead of the pattern. Essentially this finishes off what the smaller bit started with the hand held router.
They aren't really inlays per se because they are as thick as the base material. As such, if the board does start looking exceptionally ratty it wouldn't be a problem to use a card scraper, or something like a Stanley No
80, to clean up the surface.
I did that with the large maple cutting board countertop at my parents' house... it had seen about 35-40 years of use and was cut up pretty badly. That in itself wasn't too big of a deal until my mother put something on it that caused the entire surface to become gummy... My brother tried to sand it... Major Fail! I took it back to my shop and in short order had the entire surface cleaned up with the No 80. I also applied mineral oil to the surface. It looked like new and wasn't sticky any more.
Also, a cutting board like this may not be the everyday board...
I?d use a router and a pattern to make the grooves too. For the flush cutting I'd probably use my shaper though. I like the extra power, the lack of vibration, and the resulting finish that I get with the shaper. With gently curves like that it would perform well...
I run bearings above and below the cutter so I can raise or lower the cutter and run the work through in the proper direction in regards to the grain and curve. This is an alternative to flipping the cutter over and switching the rotation direction.
Here's another cutting board video. I post it not because of the cutting boards or the process, but because of the cordless drill powered bench grinder seen at 1:50.
LOL. That is a pretty good optical illusion. Reminds me of a picture that Swingman took of me when we were installing some kitchen cabinets that he and I built. I appeared to have no head.
Correct, more like a lamination. Nailshooter got one those cutting boards and he says he keeps them in good shape by sharpening his knife every time he cuts on the board and not continuing to saw away after the cut is completed. And uses one of those stainless steel scrub pads, that look like a Slinky that got twisted up too much, to scrub the surface. He claims that the surface stays relatively unblemished.
I used the BS to hog out most of the waste area. Cleaning up with the larger 1.125 bit was quite smooth and effortless when it was only having to remove about 1/16" of the remaining material on the two pieces. But I bet the shaper does a bang up job with out having to remove excess to begin with.
That would be an advantage too. Fortunately since I was not removing more than 1/16" back cutting/going the wrong way was also effortless and with out any excitement.
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