Circular saw recommendations?

[krw]

Thnaks. I ordered the "kit" for my saw (113.19771). It implies that the "kit" contains a guard and table. The site said it would take 8-10 weeks to get here. Since it was some time before 1993 (we moved that year and I never put it back together) when I last used it, I think I can wait. ;-)

It's perfectly safe, when done correctly. ;-) I'm one of the "most guys", though I have ripped a *lot* with it, too. I didn't set it up after the move, primarily because I didn't like ripping on it. Not that I have a table saw, that's not an issue.

The issue I have is on the other side of the blade. With a TS my hands are never on the back side when power is on. I suppose one can do the same with a RAS, but it's awkward. OTOH, I never stood in the line of fire when using the RAS. With a TS it's a little more difficult to stand completely aside.

[Dave]

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 11:34:34 -0500, " [e-mail]"

I was thinking, could the problem be your technique? When you're ripping a sheet of plywood, how much of your blade is protruding through the plywood? If your blade is protruding through the plywood an inch or more then it's too much.

It's generally accepted in Festool circles that 1-2 mm through what your cutting is the proper depth of cut.

[krw]

Could be. With the Festool, just enough to break the surface (plus maybe

1/16"). With other saws, I try to get the whole tooth out of the material. Not sure this is proper technique, either.

I figured that's why they added accurate depth control. ;-)

[-MIKE-]

They said "8-10 weeks" when I ordered mine and it showed up 3 days later. Two very big, heavy boxes.

I actually came up with a good idea for a brake on the sliding arm that would always be engaged and only disengage when the squeeze handle was pulled. There would be a ratcheting system that would not allow the blade assembly to move unless the trigger was pulled.

[willshak]

I got the replacement table and guard for the Craftsman years ago. It's still in the box it came in, sitting next to the RAS.

[-MIKE-]

That was very helpful.

[Steve Turner]

Democrat.

[krw]

Then I'll have to find a place to store 'em.

The other danger is the blade powering the carriage towards the operator. It seems that sort of thing could take care of that, too. With modern electronics such a thing would be trivial but I think the days of the RAS are over. I certainly wouldn't buy one now.

[-MIKE-]

Hey, hey, hey!!! Geez, man... we were just razzing each other and you had to blow a fuse throw out the D word. wow. chill out, have a beer.

That's the last time I let you see me in tight pants.

[Morgans]

My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

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I have had a standard right blade Milwaukee on the job for just about every work day since 1982. I have never done anything to it but replace switches and cords. Not even ever re-greased the gearbox. You have my recommendation. It is probably the heaviest saw, but the toughest, and has the best torque for ripping of any I have used. Oh, this is for a corded model.

-- Jim in NC

[Doug Winterburn]

My current Searz RAS has a feature called "control cut". It's a motorized cable that only lets the motor advance at a controlled rate and retracts the motor when the trigger is released. It has a variable rate control thumb dial. Works great.

[Morgans]

One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my previous saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------- One thing I would add is the shoe mounting is as or more important as the shoe, I think. It is tough to knock it out of line because the mounting is so heavy. If you drop it off of the roof, all you do is straighten the shoe with a hammer and keep on rocking. The Milwaukee has the type of mount where you can tell exactly how much you are raising or lowering the blade. It also still cuts on the same place on shoe notch whether you have the saw on 0 degrees, 25 or 45 degrees.

-- Jim in NC

[Steve Turner]

Sorry; maybe I did get a little carried away. :-)

[krw]

Agreed, but I consider that part of the shoe.

I don't intend to drop if off a roof, so I'd rather have a stiffer, more accurate shoe (and mounting). I rarely cut anything other than a 90degree cut, so that rigidity is what I looked for. There are so many circular saws to choose from. When buying a new one, think about how you're likely to use it.

The rear-pivot DeWalt DW364 has the depth gauge, too. It's pretty slick.

[krw]

Ok, so someone stole my idea. ;-)

[Robatoy]

Oh yea... sounds REAL safe. The motor retracts itself past the 'just cut' little pieces while the blade is still spinning down or even stopped? Can't you hear that wonderful sound of KAHcchAAANGGG when it jams a cut-off into the slot? What the hell, a new blade, maybe an eye, maybe a thumb....

RAS should be O U T L A W E D ! !

[dpb]

On 8/7/2011 12:12 PM, Robatoy wrote: ...

More N O N S E N S E...

--

[Lew Hodgett]

--------------------------------------- You want an argument, change the subject.

Cerritos college has ONE (1) RAS in the entire facility.

It's use is restricted to cross cutting rough stock to length.

Even that cut gives me the "willies"

Lew

[Swingman]

A RAS, and I owned one, is only tool that I always approached with a great deal of, if not exactly fear, trepidation. Finally got rid of because I was always looking for another way to do something instead of using it.

[Doug Miller]

Why should it? I've never understood the antipathy that many guys here have toward radial arm saws. One person used to call them "radical harm saws" and I truly don't understand why. It's just a case of using the right tool for the right job. A radial arm saw is *not* the right tool for ripping (not the best one, anyway), but IMHO it's safer than a table saw for crosscuts:

- The stock stays put; you can even clamp it to the table if you want. There's

*zero* possibility that a long board can torque crooked, bind, and kick back.

- Since the stock doesn't move, there's no kickback danger posed by cutting unsurfaced lumber that might rock or twist: shim it, clamp it, cut it.

- If a RAS ever *does* kick back, the wood is thrown *away* from the operator.

- The saw carriage runs on *rails*. Don't put your hand in line with the rails, and it's completely impossible to be hit by the blade.