The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.
JP
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.
JP
Buy a Dewalt DW364. It has a fine adjustment of parallel.
I'm on my 3rd one, my first was bought in 92 or 93. It burned out in
Tom in KY, my cordless saw is a PC, no adjustment found to make it closer to parallel.
a hammer or place the fence in a vice and bend it until it's closer
you asked for easy......it's what I've done with several Skil saws after others had dropped them or stuffed them in the crossbox with six nail guns and two other saws.......
Gary
Thu, Jan 5, 2006, 7:24pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Jay=A0Pique) who doth lament: The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.
I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to just do without the fence.
I'd say if you want reasonable accuracy with a circular saw, use a straight edge, not a fence.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax
I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to just do without the fence.
This just ain't right - who's going to pay for a new keyboard?
I *do* use a straightedge. Usually it's my speedsquare, but for knocking down large sheetgoods sometimes I use a long straightedge. The problem is that the blade wants to wander away from the line when I push the fence tight to the straightedge. Looks like I need a bigger hammer....
JP
i've been using circular saws for 35 years, never used a fence yet, toss it out. as for as fences go: skil is the worst, pc is ok, milwaukees work real well.
How do you know which fences are good if you haven't used one in 35 years?
Barry
Fri, Jan 6, 2006, 5:12am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net doth boasteth: Buy a Dewalt DW364. It has a fine adjustment of parallel. I'm on my 3rd one, my first was bought in 92 or 93. It burned out in
My little B&D was given to me in 1982 or 1983. Still works, still use it. To cut straight, I use a straight edge. I got one of the el cheapo, around -6, carbide tip blades a few years back, and it cuts just like an expensive saw.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax
The Jay Pique entity posted thusly:
Or a slicker solution...
Later that afternoon, I saw an even better solution, in a book I got from the library. It's called "Shop-Built Jigs and Fixtures", by Woodsmith Magazine (Oxmoor House), ISBN 0-8487-2677-4.
The basic idea is a straightedge with a base that aligns with the saw blade, but the slick part is that the straightedge has a slot in it that mates with a 'sled' that holds your circular saw. One main advantage is that when you put the saw in the sled, it's held captive, so you don't have to worry about holding it against the straightedge, as it cannot wander left or right.
The advantage for you is that you can build it such that the saw can be positioned correctly and repeatably in the sled.
Larry
It sounds to me that some people are taking "fence" to mean an edge guide and others to mean the the saw's base plate.
Are you asking about the adjustable guide that can be removed from the saw or about the base plate that is part of the saw?
I'm not into circle saws, but I have never seen one where the alignment of the edge of the base plate to the blade can be adjusted (other than bending something).
Maybe I've misled some of you folks. What I mean is that the edge of the sole plate on which the saw slides across the wood is not parallel to the blade. I guess fence was the wrong word.
JP
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