Chisels broke

Your comment brought back memories of when you used to see a lot of rawhide tools, and rawhide _in_ tools. Rawhide was a staple of the life on the frontier and one of the handiest things to have around. It was used to write on, as seats and backs for chairs, as "windows", as shopping bags, as lariats and whips, as bridles, as glue when ground into a powder ... and, because of its ability to stretch when wet and seriously contract when dry, was used universally to fasten things together, much like nails today. The plains Indians often wrapped prisoners in a fresh buffalo hide and left them out in the sun for a few days ... constricted their options considerably. :) Stranded folks were even know to survive by chewing on it.

I have a collection of J. Frank Dobie works, a Texas historian, folklorist, and professor of English at the University of Texas in the early 1900's who wrote extensively about rawhide and its uses in some of his early pieces. Dobie was raised on a Texas cattle ranch and is well known for having interviewed old timers about such things.

Fascinating, useful material.

Reply to
Swingman
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move up to a 24 oz. hammer...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

Reply to
Glenn

Sun, Mar 6, 2005, 4:19am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com (Jim) says: We have some neat local woods that never make the sawmill; osage orange, dogwood, beech & sycamore.

Yup, I decided quite some time back that it was more satisfying to work with just wood native to North Carolina. Or, free wood. Free wood is popular wood. Pallets are free, and can have some nice wood - oir not - "free" is the operational word. I'm not sure where pallets grow. but I know they're native. Anymore, the only wood I buy sometimes is plywood. I buy it becuse I know plywood trees are native here too.

JOAT Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.

- David Fasold

Reply to
J T

some cheap chisels have decent steel, some don't. if yours don't, treat them as disposable. if they do, make new wooden handles.

Reply to
bridger

I have a few rawhide mallets. every once in a while one or another of them will be used to drive a chisel, like if the mallet happens to be out at the time or is the right weight for the cut or whatever. usually I do use a wood mallet, but I don't have a rule about it....

Reply to
bridger

Get this set of chisels

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this 4-1/2" mallet:
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this type from anywhere else, and you'll be proper. I have some of these chisels and they are an acceptable tool steel that does take a very fine edge. When honing these Buck Bros., the edge does build up a signifigant bur, but it is easliy lapped off perfectly clean, I was happy with that, and got a glass edge from 1200 grit paper.

Reply to
AAvK

I don't know what the best way to repair them is, but I see a few causes for your problem right offhand. First, a "plastic striking surface" is not a striking surface at all- the chisel is most likely designed for hand use only. If you can't push it by hand, it's probably not sharp enough for what you're doing. Chisels that are intended to be used with mallets usually have a steel shaft running all the way through the tool, and a metal striking plate at the end or a socket-type reciever for the handle, and (again) a metal striking plate at the end. Asking plastic to hold up to repeated hammering it probably unrealistic, unless you get some superb chisels.

Second, even when carving with a mallet, you probably want to use a wooden mallet rather than an iron hammer.

Third- Chisels carve, they don't umm.. "pound". They're not nails, after all. Try taking several shallower cuts, and sharpen your tools more often!

Sounds like you got yourself a fairly cheap set of chisels to begin with- it may just be easier to get another set than it is to fix them. Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

Reply to
Prometheus

Have you ever seen "oyster veneering" - an 18th century decorative technique ? Diagonal slices of laburnum are trimmed rectangular and placed together as a decorative veneer. It's plug-ugly IMHO, but certainly an interesting and impressive technique.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Andy Dingley responds:

Rawhide ? really?

I have plenty of rawhide mallets that I use for coppersmithing, but I've never heard of anyone using them to drive chisels before - always wood.

Yeah, rawhide. I've got a couple with cast iron holders that are weighty enough--ye olde basic rawhide mallet is very light, but add 16 ounces of cast iron, and bingo. I've also got one that has a copper head and a rawhide head...great for non-sparking needs, but I no longer work around such substances when striking is needed, so it is also handy for driving chisels. To me, the more compact heads are easier to control than larger wood mallets, though I also like the various deadblow Stanley hammers.

Reply to
Charlie Self

I prefer them for framing chisels.

Kevin Gallimore

Reply to
axolotl

As I pack, I have a spindle with ends still attached of Osage Orange curing in my bottom dresser drawer. Been there 8 years and I think it might be dryish. It has a beautiful color now, and will be turned a bit to true up internal stretches.

Speaking of the magical Madrone - I have some that are 100' or more high but are likely

150' in length! - One is larger than my belt size at 100' and is horizontal! The trunks twist and turn. The color of the wood is so fine and the wood tight.

I have two limbs well seasoned for future projects. Larger bowls never made it as the wood comes alive during turning as the stress grain is cut and a twist comes undone! Now try to cut that with a hand skew! Exciting times.

In my new shop, I'll get the wood lathe out and have plenty of room. Hope to get my skill, my Uncle - Uncle Dave - he is making Hats! - Yes western, and others! The pictures are something else. I get one this summer. Can't wait to walk into a lumber yard or wood working store of some sort with a wood hat!

Martin

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

I bought four sets of chisels from a used place. The kind with a light green see-thru handle and a black trim - no brand. It performed fine for a few weeks until a pearl sized chip came off in sections from the tip of the green handle which I did not notice earlier. I was chiseling against the grain of the wood, not along the grain as instructed from a book. But, I've chiseled against the grain with a 10-year old Stanley (with a non-see-thru plastic handle) without problems.

The problem is that a few of the green see-thru chisels have 10-15 percent chips gone from its plastic striking surface. Since that day I am more careful. I'm not sure whether I had used a wrong hammer or whether I pound them too hard. What's the best way to repair these tool?

Thanks

Reply to
Tim Zimmerman

id get a rubber chair foot or something and stick it over the end.

and a wooden mallet or rubber for striking.

randy

Reply to
xrongor

"Tim Zimmerman" wrote

Hi, This message was already posted, unless you don't mind replying again. There was an internal ISP error which caused a mirrored post that is beyond my control. The actual post is here.

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Reply to
Tim Zimmerman

On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 02:49:41 GMT, the inscrutable "Tim Zimmerman" spake:

I'm with xrongor. Crutch tip 'em, use a wooden mallet, but I'll add one more extremely important thing:

Give them to SWMBO and buy a REAL set for yourself.

========================================================== I drank WHAT? +

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--Socrates + Web Application Programming

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Either just ignore it, or saw the end of the handle a little shorter, but giving you a flat surface.

Then get a wooden mallet for driving chisels.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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