I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something like that) 24T blade. If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut. But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is on the wood, it leaves a burn.
It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is cherry just that sensitive and all is normal? Thanks.
I have noticed the same thing myself with cherry. I don't know why, but it does seem to happen.
I will be watching for the answer.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
Cherry is sensitive to burning so you do have to use the right technique to keep it moving. Also having you TS properly tuned and having a CLEAN sharp blade helps.
Also, your wood needs to be straight.
Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat! A sharp blade, a steady fairly quick feed, and there should be few if any problems. Use a dull or otherwise screwed up blade, or stop and start or verys low feed, and problems then are inevitable.
Wonder what I did with that issue.
Charlie Self "There is nothing wrong with America that cannot be cured with what is right in America." William J. Clinton
That's the nature of cherry. I cut cherry sawtooth standards for a couple bookshelfs I made several years ago. The most time consuming part of the project was sanding out the burn marks.
Huh? Do you mean one edge needs to be straight? i.e. the side that rides against the rip fence must be straight? I am assuming this is what you mean. Include a little more info in your posts OK? Because sometimes, cherry wood can be uneven and still be ripped successfully without burning. A well-tuned saw, clean and sharp blade and attention paid to the feedrate will work wonders.
Just my .02 worth...
Philski
Have you tried a cabinet scraper yet to remove the burn marks? That goes way faster for me than sand paper.
Ok, I've been taken down a notch, I should have said flat....
Actually, you could have said either. What you don't want is any heat-producing friction against the wood. Wood which is not straight, wood which is not flat, wood with reversals in grain or case-hardening which pinches into the blade, etc. will all result in burns. As will a whole bunch other things.
Same as with any other pitchy wood. Ever notice what happens with pine?
Some wood, and at the top of the list is cherry, is notorious for burning so, though unwanted, it is normal if you feed too slow or hesitate.
would waxing the blade help at all?
randy
I haven't cut a lot of cherry on the TS but I have cut quite a bit on the scroll saw. I got a lot of burning at first, I switched to a courser blade and that helped some. Then I slowed the saw down and that eliminated the burning. My scroll saw is a single speed so I had to rig an auxillary motor through some step-down sheves (not an easy solution).
From that experience, my suggestions would be:
Somewhere in there you ought to find a solution.
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