"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
You know, I just thought of a way to get over the holes being on the wrong
side of the back support.
Get a piece of hardwood, at least 6/4 stock, and use a drill press to drill
a set of holes, just like the pattern on it now. Use a couple screws or
stiff legs to secure the new pattern piece on the side of the support, where
you want the new holes to be. Get one of those flexible screw bit holder
shafts, you know the ones made out of a covered spring, of sorts, and put a
hex shaft end drill bit in it, and drill your new holes. Rough up the side
with the old holes, and cut and sand one side of a super thin piece of
cherry, and use it as veneer to cover the wrong holes.
Might be a bit of work, but it could well be worth it to the OP.
-- Jim in NC
Beautiful work. Some non-standard details but that just proves you are
- You can create a (disposable) zero clearance base for the bandsaw
pretty easily to kill backside chip out.
- Not sure I like either way you leveled the hard edge on the shelf.
On the router table a standing piece like that is not fun, safe or
accurate per se without some jig setup. The face milling concept with
the handheld is also a little iffy. I use a precise setup with
feathers to cut kerfs in the ply and use splines. Then they are close
enough to one side that you can just sand them, leaving the underside
- The notching on the table saw again was kind of cowboy. You really
should have some better setup, maybe a sled. I can tell lots of ways
that ends badly and if you are making videos you may have some
- I didn't see any thought given to expansion at the bottom. You "may"
learn that you needed some over the years
- Nice )safe" jig for cutting the modling miters.
[Not sure why my first post didn't show. I apologize if it is a
Beautiful work. Some non-standard detaails but that shows you ar an
1. Hint: You can easily make a temporary zero clearance for the
bandsaw to stop backside chip out.
2. The two ways you leveled the hard edgeband were neither my
- On router table kind of dangerous and inaccurate doing tall
pieces like that without an additional fixture
- Flat fly cutter method is not great, just too easy to gouge out
and just not typical wood practice
- I use slots and splines. Do a tightly controlled (feather boards)
to make the slots indexed to the top face. Then splines. You can just
sand the top and leave the bottom proud
3. Notching on the table saw like that, tall piece on miter gague,
even with an extended fence is kind of cowboy. Lots of really bad
things can happen. If you are making videos you need to consider your
liability and that is not super safe, moving that fast with no
secondary method of keeping that board from falling forward or kicking
up/back except your (flesh hands) which could be easily followed by
your (flesh) face, etc.
4. Good practice to allow for expansion on the top but what about the
bottom shelf? It could expand and cause problems in a few seasons.
Hopefully it will just pop off your cute molding, but maybe this is a
case for a few brads to keep them in place, although that could be the
least of your worries.
5. Excellent fixture/sled for mitering the moldings and the pencil
with the non-slip erase is an excellent little innovation.
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