I see a number of cheapo dovetail jigs on ebay, they look identical in construction to what JET is selling.
Question: If I'm doing a small amount of dovetailing for occasional projects, will these be OK or should I spring for the more expensive Porter Cable ones. The PC is about 3 times as much, and doesn't have a lever quick release.
TIA
YNow you know why they're on eBay. Do a DAGS and read some of the "frustration posts" about these jigs.
Bob S.
Why do it ? Biscuits are quicker, finger joints are more router-friendly. If I'm cutting dovetails, I want good ones, not ugly symmetrical ones. For anything "practical rather than decorative", I don't use dovetails.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
DAGS Do A Google Search
I'm big on biscuits, but Dovetails are, well, cool and look nice.. They are also stronger in certain applications.
I had done google search already, but I wasn't getting a clear opinion on whether the Porter Cable ~$120 one was worth the extra money over a $30 harbor freight one.
Someone posted a Keller jig, I think I might try to get it.
Y
The Jet is a decent jig for the money. I just finished 24 drawer boxes with it and had great results. The manual however absolutely sucks. Do not follow its instructions on bit height. Also there is a formula for determining the fence placement from the front of the jig. This too is wrong and wont work. This is all documented over at Amazons website. Several users had the same complaints. With a few test cuts in some scrap material though its east to dial it in on your own, it took me about half an hour of fooling with it and afterwards I never did a thing througout all 24 drawers.
Jim
Yitah wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
18 months ago, I bought a Rockler (clone) jig to do my first dovetails in my first drawer. 5 hours later, with the help of two experienced instructors, we had a drawer. When I tried it again two weeks later, at home, I put it away in frustration.I gave it away this winter when I was cleaning my shop, and a friend of my sons' expressed an interest in it.
Not that I gave up on dovetails. When I couldn't use the Rockler jig effectively for what I wanted to do, I headed to Woodcraft, intending to buy the Keller or similar jig. The Akeda came home with me instead. 45 minutes to rubber mallet tight through dovetails on a small toolchest I was building.
A good jig, or most good tooling, is an investment. A 'cheapie' is often the path to frustration. If I wanted frustration, I'd turn the lights off in the shop, and come inside and watch CNN.
If you feel that you shouldn't spend the money for the better tool, then Andy is right. Cut them by hand. Supposedly better for the soul anyhow.
Patriarch
I bought the Lee Valley dovetail guides last year for the small amount of dovetailing I do. It works great and is well worth the price; I highly recommend it. It's a thousand times more versatile than any jig, and set up is minimal. Practice a few times on some scrap, and you're ready to go! Here's the link:
First time I seen it, the Akeda jig, I fell in love with it! It's easy to set up and easy to use. My question Patriarch, have you tried any other bits besides the "Akeda" bits? I was wondering if they had to be their brand. It don't matter, I have all the sizes, but thinking ahead when the get dull or whatever, trying to use an off the wall brand.
HAve you ever bought anything for $40 that was worth it ??? The PC dovetail jig works fine but setup is very tedious.
The instructions are fair to good. That can't be said for the infamous "blue dovetail jig".
The one theme you will see here is that you get what you pay for. If you are not willing to pay up, this hobby may not be for you.
Just for the record, that PC jig sells in many locations for slightly under $100.
Do NOT buy cheap router bits either.
Yitah wrote:
Thanks....
I have the PC jig. I thought setup was quite easy.
I recently purchased the Rockler DT Jig as well. I found it pretty easy to use. I had never routed or hand cut dovetails before. After an hour or two, I had a nice tightly joined drawer.
I would suggest purchasing the aluminum template. The plastic one that come with it is really flimsy (but useable).
CC
I think this is the biggest reason the Jet jig works better than the Rockler or the clones. The aluminum template versus the plastic. As I stated in another post, after setup of about half an hour or so I did 24 drawer boxes with it, thats 48 operations in all and had no problems other than some tear out in the material caused by me going a little too fast I think. And even that only happened once or twice.
Jim
I haven;t used it but the Hartville jig looks ot be wellbuilt and designed, is made in the USA and hartville Tool has a good reputation.
Another one for the archives at the Department of Redundant Duplications Department.
Art
Yes, I have purchased many items for $40 (and even less) that were worth it. Now if you are asking if I have bought many $200 items for $40 that were worth it that might be a different story.
Dave Hall
smart ass .........;)
Bob S.
Thanks for all the responses.
From what I gather, there are a pretty wide range of experiences with each of the different jigs.
Looks like I might get my hands on the Keller jig that someone in the group offered up, if so, that's best since I really want to do through dovetails more than half blind. As someone else pointed out, there's more of a aesthetic than structural reason to do them.
If I can't get the Keller, I'm leaning towards the PC. It's $109 including shipping at Amazon.
I have to admit that I'm still tempted to get the cheapo $30 Jet/Harbor Freight / Rockler Clone. I'm very handy with stuff, and could probably get it to work.
Y
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