Chair feet

My question is really about modifying store-bought furniture, but is just as applicable to a chair I might make.
I have a bar stool with turned and slightly splayed legs. The bottoms of the legs are cut perpendicular to the axis of the leg rather than on the plane of the floor. I'm thinking of putting it on my bench, and using a pencil or plane iron bevel-side down to mark a uniform distance up from the bench, then suing a block plane to trim these leg ends to be coplanar. And reason not to do that?
The stool is on a hardwood floor finished in urethane. In the perfect world, the floor would stay so clean that no grit would ever get between the bottom of the stool and the floor, thus no scratches. In the real world, I have had pretty good luck with hard felt self-stick pads from HD, except that the adhesive doesn't hold all that great, so I end up having to replace them periodically. The low-friction hard plastic (UHMW?) pads don't seem to work as well in preventing scratches from floor grit. Any other ideas? (The floor is already down, so mag-lev is probably not feasible<g>)
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alexy wrote:
> My question is really about modifying store-bought furniture, but is > just as applicable to a chair I might make. > > I have a bar stool with turned and slightly splayed legs. The bottoms > of the legs are cut perpendicular to the axis of the leg rather than > on the plane of the floor. I'm thinking of putting it on my bench, > and using a pencil or plane iron bevel-side down to mark a uniform > distance up from the bench, then suing a block plane to trim these leg > ends to be coplanar. And reason not to do that?
Willing to bet a considerable amount you won't get it done to anybody's satisfaction.
<snip>
Any other ideas? (The floor is already > down, so mag-lev is probably not feasible<g>)
You take a page from the Gougeon Bros book on Boat Construction RE: Mounting sheet winches. (they almost always get mounted at some goofy angle).
Basically, you screw a sheet metal screw into the bottom of the leg leaving say 1" exposed.
Set chair of floor and adjust screws till chair is level.
Apply epoxy fairing putty around screws in 2-3 applications, 8-12 hours apart.
When finished, allow to cure for about a week, remove screws and sand smooth.
Attach new floor glide to bottom of fairing putty.
Couple of things to remember:
1) The above adds about 1" to 1-1/4" to leg length, may have to trim leg before starting.
2) Fairing putty is white. Either tint during or paint afterwards.
Paint is easier.
Have fun.
BTW, all of the above assumes the floor is level.
Lew
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*snip*
You take a page from the Gougeon Bros book on Boat Construction RE: Mounting sheet winches. (they almost always get mounted at some goofy angle).
Ok, I just have to snikker here... heh heh heh ;ŽD
Kate O|||||||O
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FWIW,
I like your plan, except the block plane. Cut with a fine handsaw, then clean it up with a chisel.
BTW I have stools with similar felt pads but they live on ceramic tile so scratches are less of a problem. I use the same pads on my dining room chairs and the stay put much better with the contact surface parallel to the floor.
-Steve

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