Chain Saw Bar Wear

I think it is not RPM (spinning) Chains saw generally have a direct drive and the drive wheel is fairly small, maybe a max of 4" in diameter (about 13" in circumference. Don't know what your bar size and chain are assume an 18" bar which makes the chain at least 44" long. So, divide 44 by

13 = 3.4. Your engine would be turning 3.4 x 15K or 51K. Never heard of a chainsaw engine that could rev to 51,000 rpm. Could be wrong, but that would be one hell of an engine.
Reply to
George E. Cawthon
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I didn't mean to imply that the CHAIN spins that fast, but rather that the engine is turning at that speed. Husky says 14.7k max engine speed, which is a lot less than 51k but still faster than many saws. In any case, I can tell you that it smokes a dull chain in a hurry. :-)

JKG

Reply to
Jonathan Goodish

I think Wilson may be holding some kind of smoke in his lungs too long.

First off.....check that you have chain oil in your new saw. One hole for the gas ....one hole for the chain oil. If you did do this, check that the oil can get to your bar. There is a little hole on the side of your bar that lets the oil in. You have to take the side cover off to see it. Periodically you HAVE TO clean this little hole and the groove in your bar. Chainsaws do not have 'blades' . Chains and bars.....no blades. Occasionally, after extensive use, you can feel a bit of chain wear on your bar.......simply run a flat file down the side of the bar and remove the bur. You are a 'long' ways away from developing that problem. Remember that you have to lubricate the tip of your bar.....if it has a wee hole to do so.....grease not oil in this hole. Last two points, when you are holding your saw keep your thumb locked around the handle...not over the handle, like a young girl; when it bucks back in your face you will appreciate this advice....and keep your head to the LEFT, away from being in line with the bar when...not if...it bucks back at you.

Now, did anyone tell you which side of a log you should stand on when bucking ......just might break your legs if you choose wrong.

BTW.......filing a chain so it is 'razor' sharp don't mean squat........if your rakers are high.

Good luck lad........nothing feels so good as knocking down your first big 'stick'

Drop me a line if you wish................Ken

Reply to
....Ken

You say

----------------------------------- I started into some oak about 12" in diameter I worked through this for about an hour

7 or 8 cuts until the bar and chain were smoking so badly

------------------------------------ this is a very blunt chainsaw less than 10 seconds per cut for a sharp chain

Reply to
diesel_fuel

If the chain and bar were smoking, then that suggests to me that you didn't have enough chain bar oil in the tank?!? Or maybe that the feeder hole was blocked, or that the groove in the bar was full of sawdust. Smoking should never occur blunt chain or sharp, if the chain lubrication works as it should.

Incidentally - there is more to it than hardwood and softwood. Some woods are very abrasive on chains, and you need to touch up much more often. (eucalyptos spp., for instance). A chain with rounded over cutters rather than the sharp cornered ones will live and perform much better in such woods (the sharp cornered ones perform better in soft timbers like pine and cedar).

I support what someone else already said: touch up the chain at every refuelling. Do a proper sharpening maybe every 5th or 6th tank ...

-P.

Reply to
Peter Huebner

It's really quite simple. You've got that old fuel mix from last year (or was it the year before?) so why mix up new stuff? Changing spark plugs isn't really necessary. Don't bother with the air filter either. Choke? And remember, never ever RTFM.

Reply to
Elmo

A couple years ago I pulled my old big McCulloch out of storage and went to start it. There was still a bit of gas in it from 4-5 years earlier, so I just popped the compression release, set the choke, held the throttle and gave it a spin to see what it would do. Started on the second pull. Smoked like crazy because about half the gas had evaporated, leaving a pretty oil-rich mix, but I was sure surprised when it fired up.

Tim Douglass

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Reply to
Tim Douglass

A dull chain will smoke like crazy if you keep trying to force it to cut - in fact the more oil on the bar the more it will smoke. I've conducted this experiment more than once in the past trying to use an old bar and chain to cut some bridge timbers - lots of heat, lots of smoke, not much cutting.

Tim Douglass

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Reply to
Tim Douglass

On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:40:41 -0500, Jonathan Goodish vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Ok OK. You admitted to a really daft act. The guy made a mild reference to trolling. He still gave good advice, to someone who admits to being a newbie, and who did a daft thing with a chainsaw. There is not much room for that with chainsaws. Let's let it alone?

BTW I am not taking sides here. I have bever heard of or from Wilson Lamb before TMK.

Reply to
Old Nick

On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 19:35:33 -0800, "....Ken" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Why? Because he suggests toucjing up the chain each tankful? Common and good advice!

Reply to
Old Nick

.. for no other reason than it makes cutting much easier. :)

Bruce

----------------------------------------------------------------------- It was so much easier to blame it on Them. It was bleakly depressing to think that They were Us. If it was Them, then nothing was anyone´s fault. If it was Us, what did that make Me ? After all, I´m one of Us. I must be. I´ve certainly never thought of myself as one of Them. No-one ever thinks of themselves as one of Them. We´re always one of Us. It´s Them that do the bad things. Terry Pratchett. Jingo.

Caution ===== followups may have been changed to relevant groups (if there were any)

Reply to
Bruce Sinclair

It's a McCulloch. I wouldn't rave about them as saws, but they have a very good little ignition system. You can buy it as a spare part and I've fitted it to several old engines ('50s vintage) to much improve cold starting.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I didn't say that it took me an hour to make 7 or 8 cuts, I said that I had been cutting for about an hour, but it became progressively more difficult to cut.

In any case, you're right, with a sharp chain on this saw it is just a few seconds per cut.

In any case, I do have a filing kit w/guides, so I am going to give that a go and see what happens.

Thanks to all for your replies.

JKG

Reply to
Jonathan Goodish

One problem to watch for is when the cutters dull on one side, or when the sharpening angles are not the same side to side. The chain will try to tip over in the cut, which makes it cut poorly and also widens the groove in the bar. If the bar groove becomes much wider than the drive legs on the chain, it's worn out.

John Martin

Reply to
JMartin957

I haven't followed this thread all the way through, but I'll add that I use a Dremel with a chainsaw blade sharpening kit on it with excellent results and no more material removal than filing would cause. It's a lot quicker than filing.

Ken (MI)

Reply to
Napalm Heart

"Wilson Lamb" posted on that vast internet thingie:

In all fairness to the other guy, I had a situation where the little holes in the bar had gotten plugged up with sawdust and things were getting pretty hot. More to your point I immediately stopped before completely trashing the bar and troubleshooted the problem.

I think we would all agree that when using a chain saw if anything is not "normal", STOP immediately and find out what the problem is.

I remember another time when (I don't know *HOW* it could have happened) the oil cap on the saw had not been properly tightened and had popped open. I'm glad I stopped since I don't think that would have been covered under warranty.

Steve at SELLCOM

Reply to
SELLCOM Tech support

snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMagresearch.NOTco.NOTnz (Bruce Sinclair) posted on that vast internet thingie:

Good advice! Which remindeded me of another tip. You saw should be throwing small wood chips and not fine sawdust. If your making sawdust instead of a pile of chips then you need to stop and sharpen.

Steve at SELLCOM

Reply to
SELLCOM Tech support

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