Centering router on table base

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The CW entity posted thusly:

That's where I saw it.

How would you do the equivalent of a crosscut on a router table? Say I wanted to make some equally spaced slots in the edge of a board that's say, 12" long? My approach (admittedly coloured by Bobby's Router Show) would be to use a sled running on a bushing with a spacer block the width of the bit, offset from the bit by the spacing desired, to allow for the work to be slid over for each cut.
As you might have guessed, my first projects will be a few jigs and fixtures.

OK, I see that, but what about the scenario I just mentioned?
Or does everyone here just measure for each cut and forgo the jig methods?
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The method CW disparages is a super way of making dados and dovetails for sliding dovetails, because if the fenced portion of your jig is perpendicular to the slot which you run on your guide, it will always be so. I love it for quick work on piece no more than 5" across. Wider is possible with broader sleds, but I made my first jig out of leftover Pergo, which limited me. Make with bigger stock, not a problem at any width.
For equally spaced dados or sliding dovetails, you can simply clamp a fence to straddle with the dado or dovetail grove you make first. Works great. Same principle as the box-joint jig which is so head-smacking simple that I threw away tablesaw versions after the first few uses of the straddle fence.
Pattern routing with a bushing is no great problem, just remember the difference between your pattern and the product. Pattern routing bits with bearings above or below may be used as well, but they have a fixed diameter. With the bushing rout, you can chuck up a 3/16" or a 1" with the same pattern, since with the proper bushing, you're routing offset the same amount from the pattern.
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You seem to be familiar with that show so I will use their techniques as illustration. Ever see them do box joints? Same set up works for the slots you describe. They have actually done it that way on the show. No bushing required.

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The CW entity posted thusly:

I have seen only about 15 or 20 shows, and may not have seen any that show a different way to make box joints. One that I did see involved the bushing/sled idea.
I can envision using a miter gauge/slot, but that would seem to me to be awkward. I'll keep my eye out for the box joints.
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Doubt it on box joints. They use this one. http://ca.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj --
Scale up this one for your dados. http://ca.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-MGS -
Nice thing to have the hold downs so your piece stays tight to the sled, should you make your own.

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The George entity posted thusly:

Ahh! Clever! Come to think of it, the slots that were being cut on the sled were for the fancy windows in a corner cabinet. They made false framing for it (or 'in it') as Bob is fond of saying.

That's it! That's the thing I meant when I spoke of a sled. I definitely want to make one of those.

Yup. One of the things on the 'soon to make' list is a set of cam clamps. I have a few hold-downs on order.
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Sat, Jan 14, 2006, 12:19am (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@spamslam.com (OlegLego) doth posteth: I don't know what to call the operation, but using a guide bushing as a sort of 'fence' looks to me like it would be real handy. <snip> They look kind of neat, but aren't they overkill and useful for only a few types of operations?
Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. On the other hand, I just use my router table with a flush trim bit for routing out patterns. If I was gonna use a guide bushing, it's be holding the router, and routing out a pattern - not in the table.
Dunno, never used a pin router. But, probably. Would let you just use straight bits tho.
You might want to check out Pat Warner's site. He's the Router Guy.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"? - Granny Weatherwax
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What I did to make an accurately centered base for my Bosch 1613EVS was: 1. Used the old base as a template to shape a new base from 1/4" melamine coated MDF, 2. Drilled all the mounting holes as accurately as possible in the newly shaped base, 3. Attached the new base to the router with a centering bit mounted in the router. 4. I then plunged the centering bit gently onto the new base, using the mark left by the centering bit the same way one would use a center punch. [note, I did say gently plunged in an unplugged router, I did not want to damage the point of the centering bit]. 5. Using the center point, I then used the drill press and a small, straight drill bit to drill a pilot hole 6. Used the appropriately dimensioned forstner bit to drill a hole for the top portion of a PC brass template ring using the top of the pilot hole for the starting point and the drill press depth stop to attain the proper depth. 7. Used the appropriately dimensioned forstner bit to drill a hole for the lower portion of the PC brass template using the bottom of the pilot hole and the drill press depth stop to attain the proper depth. 8. Re-attached to router base and confirmed that my 1/32" plus centering error had been reduced below my means to measure it. 9. Celebrated with great joy and gusto in preparation for making many dovetails with leigh jig for Captain's bed drawers
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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The andypack entity posted thusly:

... a good set of instructions snipped ...

It does! I will refer to that one for my next tabletop!
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