It depends on how you're planning to attach the drawer faces to the box. I
take a few brads, snip the heads off them and then push one into each side
of the drawer box face leaving them about a 1/4" proud. Then I align the
drawer front in place and push it hard enough to mark it.
If you're screwing from inside the drawer box into the face, I use double
sided tape, stick the drawer front on, remove the drawer and screw though
just enough to get it started in drawer front. Back off the screws, pull the
drawer front off, remove the tape and then align the face with the slightly
proud screw tips, drive them home.
The last time I did it, it was a real PITA.
I bought some screws with big heads that go into oversized holes. The idea
is that you can move it 1/8" to get them right, and the head covers the
Haven't tried it, but its how I will do my next drawers.
I cut the drawer fronts to fit in the opening, fit shims to keep the gaps
even and then apply double stick tape to the drawer box. I can then open the
drawer and drill the mounting holes (oversized) so I can then attach the
FWIW take a look at the following link to a .pdf from Blum's website.
Specifically, page 24.
These look like dowel centers that are supposed to be used in conjunction
with their 295.1000 drawer adjusters. I couldn't find the actual adjusters
on their website, but the idea is that they are like cams that can be turned
to allow fine tuning of the drawer front once you locate it in the general
area with these "drawer front templates". That said, I don't see why you
couldn't just use regular dowel centers to get you in the ballpark and then
use oversized holes with screws and washers as others have suggested here.
I have never used these and am only trying to learn here myself. I do recall
seeing these elsewhere. Most likely, if you check the usual catalogs, you
may find them.
Hope this helps.
I tape a piece of firm foam rubber in the back of the drawer box in
order to cause spring-action when the drawer is pushed all the way in.
Then a couple of drops of hotmelt to push the drawer front onto the box
and hold it there for a sec. Then open the drawer, toss a clamp across
the drawer front and box and drill pilot holes directly into back of
the drawer front through the front of the drawer box.... Screw in place.
If lateral motion is needed, open the hole in the box a little.
I use a combination -- first I use carpet-tape with a clamp to get the
drawer front on the right place. I then drill pilot holes, remove the
front, and drill oversized holes in the frame. You can get some
washers which are made for counter-sink screws. The neat thing about
them is that the backs of them aren't flat, and thus they bite into
the wood of your frame, so they don't slide around.
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