Very interesting to see. The one I have is avery early-predecessor of
that one. Much lighter, with probably a bit more wobble in it. It
encases the saw blade though, like yours, just not to the same degree of
precision (I'm sure). I haven't looked around the back for a hex-nut
adjustment mechanism to set angles other than those with detents! : )
But the saw was a gift, and I'm glad to have it.
If your door is "standard", it is 80". A molding 1.25 thick and 2" wide is
wierd. Is this a casing mold or a brick mold? If for an interior passage
door, I sure wouldn't want it.
Either of your nail lengths should be fine. I've done very few doors other
than mine but I prefer to use screws and face grain plugs.
I've never glued mitered casing (in fact, I've rarely used mitered casing)
but it would help keep them together. Those spring clamps are often used by
picture framers; I never used them when I was making same because they leave
Whether or not one needs/should blunt nail points depends upon whether or
not what you are nailing through tends to split.
In a perfect world, the side jambs would be perfectly vertical and parallel
to each other and they would be at right angles to the top jamb; all would
be flush to the wall surface on each side.
It isn't a perfect world.
Because it isn't a perfect world is why casings are relieved on the
back...the hollow between the two edges helps bridge too thick drywall.
That relief also means that you need to nail through the non-relieved part
to avoid the possibility of splitting the casing down the middle.
Because it isn't a perfect world is also the reason I avoid mitering casing.
Instead, I use corner blocks...the ends of the casings are cut square and of
the proper length to align with the reveal. The open square left is then
filled with a slightly thicker and larger square piece of wood; thicker so
it will be proud of the jambs; larger so it will be wider than the jambs on
both edges. A "stopper". Corner blocks often have a decorative rosette; I
don't have a rosettes cutter so I just rout a decorative edge all around.
Final thought: if the mold you intend to use is actually 1.25 x 2, how are
you going to open the door? The pivot point of the door hinges should be
far enough out so that the door can open fully without interference from the
described the molding around an entry way (to the kitchen) adjacent to
it, where the actual door lies 5" or so inward.
I've been "sweating that miters" ever since I took the old one molding
down! Though the fellow who did the previous installation didn't sweat
it--he just left a 3/8" gap inside the miter I guess that's why I
didn't hesitate to discard it.
like they should be of standard size (s) --like 2 3/4" square) but I
like your idea of using "corner blocks" (much better than my chances of
cutting perfect miters!)
I'll investigate further.
Thank you very much for your helpful and interesting post!
Two leg miters are really not that difficult. as you only have one width
to worry about, the distance across the door. Your problems really
begin on four sided miters, like a picture frame. If the side pieces
are a little long or short the extra material can be accounted for at
the bottom of the door. That is what quarter round is for.
I cut my miters on a table saw, using a triangle miter gauge. Coarse cut
the miter on the table saw, then do a shave cut on the table saw to get
door casing all-in-one kit using your model (but it's MDF so I'm not
going to use that
I'll let you know how it comes out! : ) I think I'm going to start
by re-shimming the door (read my other most-recent post)...
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