On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 19:25:18 -0400, "Gary" wrote: inish but I obviously wasn't thinking that through.
Try any drug store or grocery store. Usually in the house cleaning products section.
Markl
Gary wrote: > They don't sell Johnson's wax in Canada.
I've quit using Johnson's wax and started using my own home brewed "sheep dip" which appears to do a better job.
It is as follows:
8 oz, bees wax. 4 oz, turps. 4 oz, Boiled linseed oil.Makes a nice wax for furniture and keeps the table saw top rust free.
Use a 1 lb coffee can in a pot of water to melt the wax.
When melted, add turps & BLO, stir and let cool.
When cool cover with plastic cap from the can.
HTH
Lew
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No, not the dreaded WD-40!
Get it cleaned off of the top just as soon as you can with some mineral spirits. Look at the product description for WD-40. One of it's "uses" is as a penetrating oil. How do you think that is accomplished? They put a corrosive agent in the mix.
Ask any gun owner their opinion about using WD-40 on their gun. You might want to step back a bit in preparation for the swing.
Seriously.
After the WD-40 is cleaned off, go to the BORG or similar store and get yourself some old fashioned paste wax that your mom used to use on her wood floors and furniture. Apply that liberally and then polish it off with a smooth cloth. =========================================================================== Chris
I did a little poking around and there are a bunch of places you can order Johnson Paste Wax on the web.
It looks like it runs around $5 - $7 for a 1 pound can. And that'll last you forever... :-)
Gary wrote: .... I used a random-orbit
Sounds like a very good cleaning technique. I'm taking notes.
Bear in mind that (for REAL rust issues) there are brown and grey nylon pads intended for metal finishing that scour more agressively. WD-40 is too transient for real protection (and it has detergent properties, so a little residue might attract moisture). Wax, paint have already been suggested. I'll add linseed oil to the list; it forms a film, fills grooves, and is benign to wood if it rubs off.
I've found some rough castings can be improved by rubbing down with a cheap dollar-store sharpening stone. As long as your table is clean, I'd do that first, and If the stone gunks up, a rubber eraser will clean it (and the stone will shed particles, sweep those up before they grit up the moving parts). Rub a tablespoon or two of boiled linseed oil on to finish.
Or, one could buy Trewax, or any of the other fine, silicone-free paste waxes sold by many local paint stores.
Amazon.com sells it for $5.99 a can. One can will last damn nea forever in the shop
Like I said before, all Johnson's is is canauba wax. When you get right down to it, canauba is canauba. It doesn't matter what brand as long as it's pure.
Would appear that it doesn't have silicone. In any case, it should say on the can. Generally though, silicone is added to waxes to make up for the lack of real wax. I think Turtle wax started it with there liquid wax that was supposed to be so easy to use. Sure it was easy. Didn't work worth crap either.
I have one last word. Wood magazine did a test in the March 2004. It was an extreme test where they exposed a cast iorn wing to moisture-laden air. They tested Boeshield, Topcote, Bulfrog fastwax, slipit, Johnson's paste wax and Carnuba wax. All but the Boeshield rusted over within 24 hours. It took 380 hours for the Bioshield treated surface to rust over.
I used it on my table saw that was left under a carport in Hawaii. It was not used often. I even left it under the carport over a 6-month deployment. It worked extremely well for me. I applied a thick coat before leaving and only had to scrub the product and accumulated dust off when I returned.
I also want to add that Wood Magazine stated that all the products tested would be effective if applied regularly. I an confident that I can leave mine sitting up to 6 months without having to worry about rust taking over. Sorry to sound like an infomercial but it has proven itself to me.
I've been using a can of that on my cast iron for a few years, and so far no rust. No finishing problems to speak of either. I wax the table saw once a week, and the lathes every few months. The lathes get a little film of rust on the ways at that frequency of application, but I've found that that's sort of desirable to keep the tailstock from slipping.
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