Card scraper success!

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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, bridger wrote:

I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69 hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by hand...
I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for? Mouldings, yeah, but what else?
--
"Keep your ass behind you"


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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis

anything curved.
the ogee shape of a raised panel cutter. fitting curved parts together. I have a number of sizes of round over scrapers made now in different sizes.
had my 40th birthday party the other day. the drummer arrived with no drumsticks. and I thought I was disorganized... no problem- stepped out to the shop and whipped out a set. the router table was deep under a pile of parts, and besides I really didn't feel like making that much noise and dust in the middle of a party. ripped them on the bandsaw, roughed them round with a block plane and used a round over scraper to clean them up. probably nowhere near a balanced set, but he was happy...
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bridger wrote...

The biggie.

Bet you were, too. That's a good birthday.
Cheers!
Jim
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis

Curved wood or carved wood. Whatever their profile fits.
-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ---- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis

I need to make a scraper pouch, too. The Hunter Green acrylic canvas ought to work fine. It turned out too thick for my glare guard use. The $5 investment I made in an old Singer-clone Universal sewing machine has paid for itself 30-times-over in a couple years. Wally World has a set of sailcloth needles for under a buck. They're tough enough to go through leather or thick cloth, felt, etc.

I just bought a set with my last LVT order but I haven't used them yet. I made an ogee bit & scratch stock to do the mantle so I couldn't use them there, either. Maybe some day, eh?
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

Finally bought the carriage bolts and wingnuts to put my scratch stock into operation. Chunk of apple scrounged from the woodpile--bee yoo tee full. Now I have to think up a project to use it on. Oh, and making cutters is the perfect excuse I needed to get a set of jeweller's files. ;)
--
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:26:34 -0600, Australopithecus scobis

There ya go! And remember to lap them on the diamond plate before use. 2x6" @600 is just fine.
-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ---- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
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Australopithecus scobis wrote...

I'd think that in a humid area -- not my shop, BTW -- leather would make a poor (hygroscopic) container for a carbon steel blade. Not so?
Jim
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wrote:

All depends on your leather. Go ask rec.knives.
The main constraints are; vegetable tanned, not with corrosive metal salts (the big one), a good surface to it, not one of the coarse split suraces, and have the leather _completely_ dressed with something oily, waxy or non-hygroscopic.
--
Smert' spamionam

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On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 12:55:21 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:

oops...
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Andy Dingley wrote...

Interesting. Thanks!
Jim
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A Vice with wooden jaws works fine for me as does a wood-jawed hand-screw clamp.
--

FF

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On 8 Nov 2004 09:02:10 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net (Fred the Red Shirt) wrote:

I have a handsaw sharpening vise. it's about perfect for sharpening scrapers.
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 06:56:25 GMT, patriarch

The Lie Nielsons are a lot better, huh? I haven't had too much trouble with the Sandvik scraper I've got, but I bought one of those Veritas adjustible burnishers at the same time. Scrapers are excellent to use, though- I'm going to have to try out LN.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
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<snip>

that's a deal.
And yes, I think that they work better for me. Both seemed easier to get sharp, and keep a hook, while working on maple and cherry.
After getting these, I looked at the video on FWW website on preparing scrapers. I think it's done by Brian Boggs. I learned a lot about the process.
Patriarch
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For me, the problem that I always had was failing to burnish hard enough on the flat side prior to rolling the hook ... that and holding the burnisher too far from perpindicular while rolling the hook.
It took quite a while to figure it out, but now I cut thick piles of shavings that look kind of like fine gauze.
In the process of trying to figure out the process of making the hook I ran through Sandvik, Lie Nielsen, Two Cherries, and Lee Valley scrapers. Kind of silly, I guess, but that's learning by trial and error for you! I found that all of them can be made to work fine. I do prefer the softer ones like the Lee Valley and the Two Cherries, but I think that's personal preference.
Cheers, Nate http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperkins1/Woodworking/woodworking.htm
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 22:51:55 -0700, Mark & Juanita

Which Sandvik do you have? They come in different thicknesses.
Barry
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On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:23:55 GMT, Ba r r y

I'm not really sure, I bought it a number of years ago. It is fairly thick however. I'll have to check.
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