Card scraper success!

Not as far as I've been able to tell. Scraping leaves a much nicer finish than any grit sandpaper I've used, and doesn't fill up the pores with dust. Depending on the angle of your hook, you can take off as much or as little as you need to. (I like to set the four sides to 0, 5, 10 and 15 degrees, and then mark them, but I'm sure everyone does this differently) I'm sure all the standard finishing practices apply- it's not going to make pine magically stain without blotching or anything, but it'll get you to where you're going much more quickly than sanding with a block! Depending on how much scraping you intend to do, and how much endurance you've got in your hands, it's also a nice idea to get one of those adjustable holders for your scraper. Not only do you not have to flex the thing with your fingers, but they can get pretty hot after a while.

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Reply to
Prometheus
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I haven't found that to be the case with Spruce, but you do need to be careful about the grain direction. If you try to scrape against the grain at all, it's pretty easy to cause tearout at the edges. If you're careful, though, it will really make the grain flash nicely.

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Reply to
Prometheus

Thanks Max... I picked up one "just to experiment".

Reply to
SawDust

Hi Patriarch,

I picked up the LV 0.6mm Super-Hard Milled. That seemed to be the middle of the road size wise, and a good place to start.

I'm approaching final assembly of the cabinet I have been working on in Red Oak. Lot's of chamfer detail. I have used my block plane to smooth out a few areas and liked the result. But when it came to fine tuning the chamfers (originally router cut), I can't see what I am doing with the plane. So I'm hoping the scraper will solve that problem and as well as smoothing the surface. Obviously Red Oak is not a good choice for scraping. But at least I'll get a feel for how a scraper works. I'll still have to fill the grain regardless.

This Red Oak was S4S but you can see the planer marks. Even if I can eliminate some of those marks with the scraper, rather than doing a lot of noisy and messy sanding, that will be a big help too.

Any thoughts ?

Pat

Reply to
SawDust

I'm not really sure, I bought it a number of years ago. It is fairly thick however. I'll have to check.

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69 hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by hand...

I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for? Mouldings, yeah, but what else?

Reply to
Australopithecus scobis

Finally bought the carriage bolts and wingnuts to put my scratch stock into operation. Chunk of apple scrounged from the woodpile--bee yoo tee full. Now I have to think up a project to use it on. Oh, and making cutters is the perfect excuse I needed to get a set of jeweller's files. ;)

Reply to
Australopithecus scobis

anything curved.

the ogee shape of a raised panel cutter. fitting curved parts together. I have a number of sizes of round over scrapers made now in different sizes.

had my 40th birthday party the other day. the drummer arrived with no drumsticks. and I thought I was disorganized... no problem- stepped out to the shop and whipped out a set. the router table was deep under a pile of parts, and besides I really didn't feel like making that much noise and dust in the middle of a party. ripped them on the bandsaw, roughed them round with a block plane and used a round over scraper to clean them up. probably nowhere near a balanced set, but he was happy...

Reply to
bridger

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 21:26:35 -0500, SawDust calmly ranted:

Careful! They're like potato chips. Betcha can't buy just one.

-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ----

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis calmly ranted:

Curved wood or carved wood. Whatever their profile fits.

-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ----

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:26:34 -0600, Australopithecus scobis calmly ranted:

There ya go! And remember to lap them on the diamond plate before use. 2x6" @600 is just fine.

-- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ----

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

I'd think that in a humid area -- not my shop, BTW -- leather would make a poor (hygroscopic) container for a carbon steel blade. Not so?

Jim

Reply to
Jim Wilson

The biggie.

Bet you were, too. That's a good birthday.

Cheers!

Jim

Reply to
Jim Wilson

Prometheus wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

When you can buy TWO of anything Lie Nielsen offers for $15, then I think that's a deal.

And yes, I think that they work better for me. Both seemed easier to get sharp, and keep a hook, while working on maple and cherry.

After getting these, I looked at the video on FWW website on preparing scrapers. I think it's done by Brian Boggs. I learned a lot about the process.

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

SawDust wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

When I was prepping the surface of the blanket chest/bench/coffee table (in progress off and on for almost a year now), I used a scraper to smooth a couple of areas where the glue lines weren't as invisible as I'd like. The scraper did a better job than anything else, but tended to leave a smooth rippled surface following the grain pattern. The planer marks are long gone.

Deciding to live with it, I filled the grain with water-based filler (Rockler's Wunderfil), in three passes. A color coat of Varathane's new soy-based stain, and now three coats so far of Waterlox Original. I'll likely do three more on the top, then wax...

Do what you need to do, consistent with the feel of your project. Not everything needs to be worthy of the MOFA. In my case, the grandkids will likely bang on it with their toys, and their parents will put their feet up on it during baseball broadcasts on the tube. That's what it's there for.

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

All depends on your leather. Go ask rec.knives.

The main constraints are; vegetable tanned, not with corrosive metal salts (the big one), a good surface to it, not one of the coarse split suraces, and have the leather _completely_ dressed with something oily, waxy or non-hygroscopic.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

oops...

Reply to
Australopithecus scobis

Interesting. Thanks!

Jim

Reply to
Jim Wilson

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