On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:53:41 -0700, bridger wrote:
I'm still only partway through a warren & ted saw blade. Ace $4.69
hacksaw. Been chipping away for weeks now, when the fit strikes. Daydream
about one o' them $200 HF bandsaws all the while... Ripping metal by
I should have been clearer before. What do folks use curved scrapers for?
Mouldings, yeah, but what else?
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 22:17:35 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
the ogee shape of a raised panel cutter. fitting curved parts
together. I have a number of sizes of round over scrapers made now in
had my 40th birthday party the other day. the drummer arrived with no
drumsticks. and I thought I was disorganized... no problem- stepped
out to the shop and whipped out a set. the router table was deep under
a pile of parts, and besides I really didn't feel like making that
much noise and dust in the middle of a party. ripped them on the
bandsaw, roughed them round with a block plane and used a round over
scraper to clean them up. probably nowhere near a balanced set, but he
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 12:31:42 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
I need to make a scraper pouch, too. The Hunter Green acrylic canvas
ought to work fine. It turned out too thick for my glare guard use.
The $5 investment I made in an old Singer-clone Universal sewing
machine has paid for itself 30-times-over in a couple years. Wally
World has a set of sailcloth needles for under a buck. They're
tough enough to go through leather or thick cloth, felt, etc.
I just bought a set with my last LVT order but I haven't used
them yet. I made an ogee bit & scratch stock to do the mantle
so I couldn't use them there, either. Maybe some day, eh?
The State always moves slowly and grudgingly towards any purpose that
accrues to society's advantage, but moves rapidly and with alacrity
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
Finally bought the carriage bolts and wingnuts to put my scratch stock
into operation. Chunk of apple scrounged from the woodpile--bee yoo tee
full. Now I have to think up a project to use it on. Oh, and making
cutters is the perfect excuse I needed to get a set of jeweller's files. ;)
All depends on your leather. Go ask rec.knives.
The main constraints are; vegetable tanned, not with corrosive metal
salts (the big one), a good surface to it, not one of the coarse split
suraces, and have the leather _completely_ dressed with something
oily, waxy or non-hygroscopic.
The Lie Nielsons are a lot better, huh? I haven't had too much
trouble with the Sandvik scraper I've got, but I bought one of those
Veritas adjustible burnishers at the same time. Scrapers are
excellent to use, though- I'm going to have to try out LN.
When you can buy TWO of anything Lie Nielsen offers for $15, then I think
that's a deal.
And yes, I think that they work better for me. Both seemed easier to get
sharp, and keep a hook, while working on maple and cherry.
After getting these, I looked at the video on FWW website on preparing
scrapers. I think it's done by Brian Boggs. I learned a lot about the
For me, the problem that I always had was failing to burnish hard
enough on the flat side prior to rolling the hook ... that and holding
the burnisher too far from perpindicular while rolling the hook.
It took quite a while to figure it out, but now I cut thick piles of
shavings that look kind of like fine gauze.
In the process of trying to figure out the process of making the hook
I ran through Sandvik, Lie Nielsen, Two Cherries, and Lee Valley
scrapers. Kind of silly, I guess, but that's learning by trial and
error for you! I found that all of them can be made to work fine. I
do prefer the softer ones like the Lee Valley and the Two Cherries,
but I think that's personal preference.
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