Can't lift grime of table saw

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"Sam Takoy" wrote:

============================If brake cleaner doesn't cut it, call KanoLabs:
1-800-331-3374
in Nashville, TN
www.kanolabs.com
They have some very interesting degreaser (solvent) products.
Lew
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Naptha.
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wrote:

Naptha.
Bug and Tar Remover....
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Try TSP. It comes as a powder (like detergent) in a box and is sold in the paint department at Home Depot.

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Fast Orange hand cleaner. I do not like to wear gloves when painting or any other messy job. Fast Orange removes grease, oil paint, lacquer, wood stain etc from my hands. Even after it has dried. Yet it leaves hands feeling good. I bought it at WalMart or NAPA. Don't remember. WW
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I'd get some diatom earth - or Mothers polish and polish it off. Mothers polish at auto shop. Can get red and worst case black polish there. Rubbing compound - something that will absorb this stuff and cart it away.
Martin
Sam Takoy wrote:

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You don't say what type of grime you have and what the saw table is made of, but the saw table looks like the one I am using today. Mine is cast iron with a rough milled surface. I use mine for many things because I am short of table space. Often the top gets a little rust, paint splatters and who knows what on the surface. With the not-too-smooth milling on the surface, the stuff really bonds. I have found that a good solvent such as lacquer thinner will remove the dissolvable materials and a run over with a belt sander with a 120 grit aluminum oxide belt cleans it up and even smoothes the milled surface without taking off more than a fraction of a thousandth inch of iron. Don't use a belt intended for metal grinding as it will be too aggressive, aluminum oxide is good as it will wear down on iron before it does any damage.
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The hairiest solvent commonly available is methylene chloride. Non- flammable, volatile, causes cancers in California. Buy it at your paint store in bodied formulations such as StripEase paint remover. Follow directions. It will cut old roofing tar/cement easily based on my experience. The resulting goop will need lots of paper towels preferably placed in the outdoors trash can ASAP. Buy the smallest amount you can as the stuff does tend to corrode the metal cans if some casual moisture is present. If this sounds too scary, try some of the solvents made by 3M and found at autobody supply stores. The pros that refinish cars have some really heavy duty stuff for cleaning prior to paint.
Joe
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On 1/1/10 12:35 PM, Joe wrote:

LMAO!
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Sam Takoy wrote the following:

Lacquer thinner.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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But do remember that Aluminium reacts with strong alkalies just as it does with strong acids.

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Stuart wrote:

20 YO Craftsman table is likely to be cast iron, not aluminum. Some of the stuff bolted to it may be, though.
-- aem sends....
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I thought that was probably the case, I'm not sure where I got the idea the top was Al.
<Searches back through thread>
Ah, In Article snipped-for-privacy@news.infowest.com>,

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The OP said rust. haven't seen much rust on aluminum. BTW, I have never seen a steel top tablesaw.
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CW wrote:

Real table saws, no. When they first came out, sometimes those itty-bitty 'portable' saws (Basically an upside-down circular saw) had heavily ribbed stamped steel tops. Never understood how a saw with a tiny table could be much use for anything bigger than a birdhouse, but they sure sold a lot of them.
-- aem sends,,,
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If the ribs were part of the top, they weren't stamped nor were they steel.
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CW wrote:

Not ribs like a heat sink, ribs like a pickup truck bed. Perhaps 'corrugations stamped into the field area' would be a better description. Looked like the table extensions on a modern big saw. Something to keep the itty-bitty top of the saw halfway flat. My memory could be faulty- I looked at a few of the things maybe ten years ago, decided they were toys, and decided to do without till I had room and money for a real saw. (Got the money now, but no room.) As little ripping as I do, and no cabinetry, the old reliable method of sawhorses, straigtedges, and clamps is adequate. I have a chop saw for square ends on 2x and trim.
-- aem sends...
-- aem sends...
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CW wrote:

I've never seen one that wasn't.
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Steve Barker wrote:

In the old days, usually a good grade of cast iron...
-- aem sends...
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steel is just cast iron with less carbon. ;-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel
some table saws have stamped steel extension tables(wings),and a cast iron center section.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
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