Can't cut straight


Can't seem to rip straight on a table saw when the angle is very small. That is, at the end of the rip where the blade is in contact with only one side of the wood then the blade flex away from the wood leaving a non-straight cut. Any tricks to cut straight?
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Sharp full kerf blade, good bearings and good technique.

That
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your blad is probably not parallel to the miter slot......

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Fred wrote:

more information please.
what is the make and model of your saw?
what kind of blade are you using?
what kind of fence is on the saw?
are you using any blade guard or splitter, and if so what?
what kind of wood, and how big a piece?
are you using any kind of featherboards or hold downs?
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Ryobi BT3000

Blade is combination, thin kerf - that's what Ryobi recomments.
Got to be thin kerf, rip or combination - this sucker is under powered.

I use the special long fence - a Ryobi accesory, very nice for long stocks.

No
Not wood but laminate flooring - about 1/4" thick. This happens on wood too.

Yes - material does not move, just the blade.
Normal cuts blade does not flex. It flexes on very thin cuts (trim cuts) at small angles at the end of the cut where only one side of the blade is in contact with the material. It seems like the blade rides over the material at the end of the cut since all the force is on one side of the blade (the side with the material) and non on the other side.
Doesn't matter what saw I use, it happens on the table saw, chop saw (don't remember if its thin kerf too) and also my 10" wet diamond saw (blade is very thin) for tiles. The work piece doesn't move, but the blade flex away from the material at the end of a thin cut.
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Ever tried a regular kerf blade? The thin kerf requiring less power bit is way overblown. I use regular kerf blades on a one horse Craftsman. It will cut anything resembling wood up to full depth of the blade. Dump that flexiblade.

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I had regular blades which was too hard on the motor and keep burning up the drive belts. Ryobi tech support advice to use thin kerf, combo or rip blades.
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...
Unless you've removed it (and if so, why?), the BT3k has a Euro-style riving knife (aka splitter).

If it happens on EVERY saw, seems the saw is not the problem here. Also, if you're getting force from the SIDE of the blade, something is bad, and dangerously, wrong.
--
You can't trade cash for skill. Sadly, I have neither.

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Are you using the original motor or the upgrade?

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Original
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Our son bought the upgrade motor as a gift and it did cut differently than the original.

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Fred wrote:

Assuming the guide is parallel to the sawblade, the problem is either sharpness of the sawblade, technique, or bearings. First unplug the saw and grab the blade and try to move it to and from the guide, hold as close to the nut as possible so the blade doesn't bend. There should be little or no in and out movement of the shaft.
Second, you are pushing the wood through faster than the blade will cut so the blade gets pushed sideways. Forget thin kerf for the laminate, you should be using a standard carbide tipped blade of around 60 teeth for laminate. If the blade is sharp then you are just pushing the material through to fast.
I experienced this type of problem with my circular saw, especially with a slight angle for doors, and finally realized that the bearings had way too much end play, about 0.040" movement.
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The blade is dull, or you're feeding the material too fast.
You can probably reduce the magnitude of the problem by raising the blade higher, and by feeding the board through, fat end first.

The fact that you encounter the same problem on several different saws suggests something amiss with your technique, probably feeding too fast. Or else *all* your blades are dull. :-)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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All feed rates are slow. The diamond blade is a new good quality MK and the wet saw is new too. I'll replace the two 10" blades on the table saw and miter saw and see. Not much technique on the miter saw.
Good to know this is not normal, hopefully its not my technique.
Thanks to all for the help

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My guess- try slowing down the rate at which you feed the piece into the saw. I've seen a lot of guys make a lot of cuts, and have noticed a tendancy of a lot of people is to speed up the feed rate at the last part of the cut. The blade flexes because it's being pushed too hard, and force is directed on the saw itself, instead of just the cutting teeth, at least in my experience. Keep it nice and slow all the way through the cut- it helps. Reduces tearing and such as well.
The other suggestion is to make sure you have adquete outfeed support. If the stock starts to see-saw at the end of the cut, it's very easy to mess up the cut. You could get roller stands, or even just a stepladder.
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