Can router base be centered on a Bosch 1611 router?

The bit on my Bosch 1611 router is displaced by 0.060" with respect to the center of the base, causing huge problems with cutting dovetails on a Leigh jig. I can't see any adjustment on this router that will allow me to center the base with respect to the bit, and the templates I have (both Bosch and Leigh) fit firmly into the base with no wiggle room.
Am I missing something or am I SOL?
Roger (remove .geentroep from email to reply)
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Replace the base with one of the after market ones, use a centering bit to get it centered before drilling
If in doubt, I have MADE a plate out of lexan/acrylic, mout to route, then use a series of router bits to cut the opening
John
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 21:45:53 -0500, Roger

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A non centered base can cause problems when cutting DT's but you also want to make sure that you are NOT rotating the base as you cut the DT's.
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I had the PC 690 set (plunge and standard base) and had the same problem with the plunge base. PC said they weren't designed to be concentric and there was nothing I could do about it. Bull! I made a new router base plate out of plastic. I screwed it down to the plunge base and then made an indexing pin and drilled through both so that the base would go on the same way every time. I then plunged the bit through it. I then bored it to accept the router guide bushings. Didn't take very long and worked perfectly.

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On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 21:45:53 -0500, Roger

======================I have 6 routers in my shop ...mostly DeWalts BUT I do not think a single one of them has the base "EXACTLY" centered... and it is not a problem at all ...I just mark a spot on the edge of the base and always use that as my reference point.... I DO NOT USE A LEIGHT JIG but have never had a problem with cutting dovetails with any of the routers...even with the insert off a hair...I just keep that spot I have marked on the base under my right hand and make the cut...
Bob Griffiths
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I had a similar problem with a router base. The fix is simple,
Unscrew the baseplate, rotate a few degrees, then using a centering bit in insure a concentric hole for the guide bushing, mark new screw hole positions. Remove baseplate, drill and tap new screw holes.
Or-
Replace all flathead screws (countersunk) in the base with pan head screws after drilling the taper partially out of the base leaving a flat bottom for the pan head screw.
Or -
Replace the baseplate with a custom made or aftermarket baseplate. See Pat Barber.
Dave

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Unfortunately the 1611 does not have the same kind of baseplate as PC, Dewalt and other routers. The template bushing fits into the actual aluminum router base casting, not a plastic insert that can be repositioned. Another base plate could be affixed to the existing base plate, at the cost of extending the narrow shanked bits another quarter inch or so.
I got hold of a PC890 router where the centering process is trivial and solved the problem that way.
I'm not sure I want to think too much about the geometry of why the "keep the router in one orientation" approach doesn't work, but it produced additive errors on some of the dovetails (2-3mm gaps), probably due to the need of registering one side of the board with the jig at one end and the other side at the other. Also with as far off center as the bit is even very small shifts in angle will move the cutter with respect to the wood.
Roger
(remove .geentroep to respond)
TeamCasa wrote:

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