Ya... tell me!! I installed a de-humidifier in my shop (basement) and have the level
down to 35%. I usually have to
bundle together the wood I buy with these big steel double angle irons, and 1/2" x
12" bolts... and wait a few months
before I use it... still get some twisters...
A tree trunk grows under gravitational pressure running down the
grain. If that pressure is "relieved", there is no natural tendency
to warp. A horizontal tree branch grows with pressure running across
the grain, and thus the tendency to warp once that stress is relieved.
First my apologies for all the uninformed answers.
A lot of people here are eager to be helpful, but
the information can have a tendency toward
1. Cut before the sap rises.
2.Branches contain "reaction wood". This can
cause severe movement during drying. If reaction
wood is used for woodworking projects it is
often best to keep the pieceds small.
3.Processing a branch is the same as for a bole
from the trunk.
B. quarter. This is simply using a maul and wedges
to split the log into four sections. Always best to
split as the split will follow the grain line. The
grain line will be convoluted in a branch so be
prepared to use short sections. A branch should be quartered since "through &
through milling will
only exacerbate the problems caused by reaction
C. Have the quarters cut by a sawyer.
D. Stack the wood on a flat platform, sticker
(horizontal spacer sticks laid down on the boards
to keep air movement between the boards) and
spacer (same as stickers but are placed on the
vertical between the boards).
E. Band or bind the stack. Banding is a steel
strap that is pulled around the stack, binding is
chain, cable or rope tightened around the stack.
F.Cut a small section of a board and weigh it.
Continue to weigh this section during the drying
process. When the piece has stopped losing weight, it is as dry as you will
get by air drying.
Keep dates, and weight records.
G. Kiln dry if necessary.
Best to keep the wood in a dark place when
drying, and always keep the binders as tight
as possible during the drying process. You will
need to tighten periodically.
This was a quick "Readers Digest" version of
how to process, but you get the idea.
The other part must not have posted.
"Some will be offended at this. They shouldn't
it's just an observation and to be aware that
much of the information offered is from the
position of opinion, not experience."
I must admit, I kept my answer simple, but I fail to see how it was
innacurate, or much different than yours in conclusion. I also don't
see why you would apologize for other people's answers, other than if
you are trying to sound patronizing. If not, my apologies as well.
My understanding is branches are loaded with "reaction wood." They've been
growing against gravity for umpty-ump years, and there is no way you can
make straight boards out of them.
Nonetheless, I have a walnut tree in my backyard with a branch that is too
low and gets in the way of mowing etc. I'd like to cut off that branch, dry
it for a year or two and use it.
The scar on my left hand from a table saw kickback accident with oak plywood
makes me pause every time I plug one of my power tools in. Had things gone
worse I'd have a much harder time playing piano or guitar. ;-)
Since my walnut branch is reaction wood I've given up on the idea of long
boards out of it. However, I do think I could make a number of really neat
small boxes (1' or smaller) from it after it is properly dried.
I'm thinking that a maple limb can be made into smaller pieces that are
stable enough. If anyone else has better ideas I'm all ears.
I got whacked by a piece of thin poplar plywood that got away from my radial arm saw
while ripping,,, I saw it coming
and shielded myself with my left forearm, which got cut from elbow to wrist, and
smashed my right thumb... but I only
got one cut on my chest... Hurt for a few months after that... Now I test the
grabber very carefully and if it don't
grab the work, I don't cut it!! At least the corner of my thumb eventually grew back!
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