OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?
How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame when opening/closing the door at the hinge side? If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the plate back into the cabinet should cover it. Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?
The gap is pretty much the nature of the beast for Euro style hinges, basically all hinges that allow you to fit doors next to each other. The reason that the hinge holds the door out from the cabinet is so that the
1/8" thick edge of the door next to the hole will clear the face frame or cabinet. The hinges allow the doors to open with out swinging out, therefore the clearance has to come from some where. The some where clearance is that which is between the back of the door and the face frame. You can buy appropriately spacers so that the door fronts will be on the same plane.
How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame when opening/closing the door at the hinge side? If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the plate back into the cabinet should cover it. Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?
Cant do it if there is a face frame behind the door, the door hinge side edge will hit the face frame if you move it too closely.
That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is unavoidable. It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to go back and check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only to see the same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.
It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see what I think. Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap' if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact' series.
It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.
The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the same cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have clearance to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening. You never saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of the doors unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.
There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.
I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have not had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a slight gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not seeing the hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.
Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the gap is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move the hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that spot. Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of the door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area than is needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8" offset of the hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to be offset from the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the hinge side of the door will come in contact with the face frame as you attempt to open the door.
Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots of
50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots other than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would like I can give you a link to my source.
I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not sure exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what you are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and they also had the additional adjustment.
Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion under mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them down-pat by the time I installed the last set...:)
is the Blum hinge that I use all the time. It allows up/down, in/out, and left and right adjustments.
B038N355C.08
:Remember" Their better pricing is in specific package quantities. 50 are cheaper than 40, if you order 55 you will get 50 at the lower price and 5 at the regular single price. At a certain point it makes sense to simply round up to the next 50 increment.
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