This brings up an interesting point.
You are looking at it from the point of view where one (or maybe
several) blow(s) will destroy the door. From that point of view, I
agree with you.
I've seen lots of cabinet doors fail slowly, as years of slamming
shut, spills on lower cabinets, etc... takes a toll on the glue. The
only joints I've ever had come apart were biscuited.
A full-on closed M&T is probably not necessary, but there are plenty
of compromises between that and biscuits. For instance:
- One could groove the stiles and rails on tablesaw or router table,
and leave a stub tenon that matches the grooves.
- Cope and stick bits are available for simple, straight-edged doors.
Do a whole kitchen in a few hours. <G>
- The tenon could continue all the way to one outside edge (bare faced
tenon), with the open-ended mortises easily cut with a router and
straight bit. Done properly, this could look nice, too. You'd see
the end of the tenon on the top and bottom, with perfect side edges.
This would be quick and easy to do, simply rounding the tenon edge to
the radius of the router bit with a rasp or sanding block.
Interesting. Sounds almost like "fatiguing" the joint with lots of
little stresses that have a cumulative effect. I don't have the
engineering knowledge to agree or disagree, but that sounds
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:49 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:
From reading this thread, it seems like most people are saying that
it's the _glue_ around the biscuit that fails - not the biscuit
itself. Which makes me wonder what adhesive the article used (I
haven't seen that particular mag. sold in this country).
Can't you just use a stronger adhesive?
. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
I agree. Yellow woodworking glues are weak when filling gaps. A
properly fitted joint features smooth surface mating to smooth
The biscuit failures I've had all involved the biscuit sliding out of
Standard woodworking glue, just like most woodworkers.
Epoxy would probably work well, but it adds other complexities.
If you have a router table, I'd seriously suggest buying a door rail
and style set.. It's maybe around $60-80 (haven't bought in a long
time). Since you are doing a whole kitchen, it will save you tons and
tons of time. Mortise and tenon is ok for just doing a couple doors,
but a whole kitchen? That would take forever. In addition, they will
look better, since they cut a decorative edge on the inside of the
door. (IMO, of course).
I remember an incident from a few years ago that makes me wonder if
most doors are not overbuilt. While shopping for a new home, we were
talking with the realtor in the kitchen of a house we were viewing.
The kitchen cabinets appeared to be laminate clad MDF with concealed
hinges. Tired of standing, the realtor swung open the door on a lower
cabinet and SAT on the top edge. At first I was simply shocked that
the door did not break or that the hinge screws did not pull out of
the cabinet.. Secondly, the realtor did this so casually, without
testing the door for strength, that it became apparent that this was a
common behavior for the realtor. Presumably, this had worked as a seat
in so many cases that the realtor simply considered all cabinet doors
to be built-in chairs. I have not been brave enough to try this
M&T will outlast biscuits. Kitchen cabinet doors get a lot of use
(and sometimes abuse). There are thousands of books on making
doors--take a look at Taunton Press books. Here, you'll be far ahead
with a good set of Bessy K-body clamps and corner blocks.
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