Cabinet add on door racks

My wife bought some add on door racks. They are intended to be mounted on the inside of the doors. But, in some of the areas where the screws go, the wood is only 1/4" thick, mebbe 3/8".
What is the best way to do this? Add some blocks by gluing them on the doors? Add some pieces of plywood?
How would you do it?
Steve
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On Sun, 04 Nov 2012 22:15:19 -0700, Steve B wrote:

How about using liquid nails. Have found that this stuff hold well.
Paul T.
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Steve B wrote:

The liquid nails is a good suggestion, if the racks lend themselves to its use.
The rails might just be my choice. I would use "French Cleats" instead of just rails to screw into.
If you are not familiar with French Cleats," the concept is simple, take a 1 x 4 the length of the door, make a 45degree cut the length of the board centered in the length of the board. Mount one half on the door with the long edge of the 45 away from the door. Mount the other half with the long edge of the 45 away from the rack. Then hang the rack on the door cleat. You might want to use one of these at the top of the rack and one at the bottom to make the rack hang even.
Deb
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On Monday, November 5, 2012 6:26:05 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:

I vote for French cleats, also. Maybe notch the cleats, so the racks don't move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so.
Sonny
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On 11/5/2012 7:06 AM, Sonny wrote:

move laterally. Might not need to attach/adhere the racks to the doors... the racks are not likely to lift off the cleats during normal use. Can always permanently attach them, later, if so. A single screw through the rack part of the French cleat into the matching half attached to the cabinet, or make the FC a little wider than the rack and use a small finish nail, on either side of the rack, will be enough to stop any lateral movement.
Although it appears in the OP's situation that simply attaching the store bought racks to a rail that spans the door panel first, then screwing that assembly to the top rail, or both stiles, may be simpler.
But French cleats will surely work, and the OP can get an idea of how they apply to his particular situation by scrolling down to the "Cabinet Door Adjustable Spice Rack" heading here:
http://e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm
(I have put built in spice racks in a number of kitchen cabinet doors in the past, but don't do it as rule lately as it does cut back on the interior depth of the cabinet for other storage and latter ended up removing about 50% of them at the customer's request).
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Steve B wrote:

Yes. Unless you are loading the rack with gold or lead.
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wrote:

+1, unless the doors are painted and he could staple or screw from the outside and paint/bondo over 'em. Half a tube of caulk'll fix 'er! WhoooEee!
-- While we have the gift of life, it seems to me that only tragedy is to allow part of us to die - whether it is our spirit, our creativity, or our glorious uniqueness. -- Gilda Radner
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Steve B wrote:

Molly bolts
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On 11/5/2012 9:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Probably not enough information from the OP.
Molly bolts will work well on hollow core doors that close in pantry cabinets.
Not so well on frame and panel kitchen wall cabinet doors. I think the molly would show on the out side faces of the cabinet panels. ;~)
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Leon wrote:

Yeah, you're right. I was thinking hollow doors, missed that they were cabinet doors. About his only option is glue. Or fiddle with a piece partially bridging the stiles. Maybe double stick tape foam too depending on how heavy they are and what they intend to put in them.
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On 11/5/2012 11:00 AM, dadiOH wrote:

As others have stated, a french cleat. Or a piece of solid wood to span the panel and screw into the door frame. both sides, top, bottom, and or middle. Attach the rack to those solid pieces of wood.
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Steve B wrote:

Depends upon whether or not you like little expanded mushrooms :)
I was thinking hollow door, mollys would be no good for what you want.
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An awful lot of kitchen cabinet doors are of the panel type you describe. Perhaps the racks are simply the wrong length for yours? Or more likely not designed for this use at all. It seems silly for a manufacturer to market something that can't be attached to the usual construction.
I searched online and immediately found some things that are designed for that purpose. These, for example:
http://www.kitchensource.com/spice-racks/rv-spiceracks1.htm
... attach to the top and bottom rails, and allow you to place them at different heights in order to avoid hitting your shelves. I also saw some plastic single strip racks that are designed to be attached with an adhesive strip.
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Damn! I designed (or sure thought I was) and built the ones on my website mentioned above, over six years ago, sight unseen, and either great minds think alike, or someone has been reading my website. ;)
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On 11/7/12 9:56 AM, Swingman wrote:

One of the dangers of posting to the interwebs. I started a drum tuning page... somewhere around 93-95 and I see cut-n-pasted snips of my info all over the place. Of course, I went into it knowing and even condoning that. But many don't.
But we now have an entire generation who believe that anything on the internet is free, including intellectual property like, say... um... music? :-)
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On 11/7/12 9:56 AM, Swingman wrote:

One of the dangers of posting to the interwebs. I started a drum tuning page... somewhere around 93-95 and I see cut-n-pasted snips of my info all over the place. Of course, I went into it knowing and even condoning that. But many don't.
But we now have an entire generation who believe that anything on the internet is free, including intellectual property like, say... um... music? :-)
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Again out of curiosity Swingy.. You and others gave me and others a ton of shit over bottom posting. Yet you are now bottom posting. What gives?? Did you see the light????
On 11/7/2012 10:56 AM, Swingman wrote:

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On 11/7/2012 12:34 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

LOL ... Tough day/week/month? :)
I've been bottom posting since FidoNet days.
IIRC, it is top posting, like you did above, that causes the consternation among the old time NNTP and SMTP protocol users.
That said, you seem a bit confused ... I hope you're feeling OK?
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No I'm confused. been a rough couple of weeks. got a nice fever. they say I won't have power till Sunday the earliest Might leave the generator on tonight... even though I only need heat. last few days the wife and I have been getting sore throats and back muscle problems from the cold...
This kind of sucks.. in the summer it would be tough in the high humidity and heat. but the winter in cold it's tough to get warm. no hot showers in the morn.
It's me..
Sorry.
On 11/7/2012 1:59 PM, Swingman wrote:

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On 11/7/2012 5:03 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

Damn ... sorry to hear that. Besides numerous hurricane power outages that lasted up to two weeks here on the Gulf Coast, after TS Allison back in 01 I spent 30 days in my flooded wreckage of a home protecting my property, with no electricity or amenities of any kind and my family farmed out to friends.
Bad enough getting older, but remove the creature comforts and things get downright unpleasant. We're pulling for you.
Hang in there, Buddy ... things will get better.
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