Burn marks with Ryobi

Novice has just bought a 'cheap as chips' Ryobi mitre saw and is very pleased with it.
But on the cuts, I get dark burn marks. Is there anything I can do to stop this please? Thanks.
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Burn marks are generally the result of friction, so if you slow down and let the blade cut you'll probably get less burn marks. Also, if your blade's dull, you'll probably get the burn marks too.
This will give you a good starting point. If your blade's sharp and you're taking your time cutting, you might have another problem. (Wobbling blade comes to mind.)
Puckdropper
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I thought burn marks were a result of going too slow in the first place?
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Yup, sure are, especially in denser, harder woods, generally. Besides dull or gummed-up blade, or misalignment. IME.
J
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JWBH wrote:

What blade are you using. There may not be enough set on the teeth.
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Jack Novak
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Probably crap blade that came with saw. Sh-t can and get a good carbide tip matched to the type of cutting you do.

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Thanks to all. Was able to tighten the nut on the blade a bit. But noticed then a bit of wobble on the blade which I guess must be the bearing in the motor. The blade at the edge 'slops' from side to side about one millimeter. The diameter of the blade I think is 254mm. (since on the blade is written *254 X2.8 X*30mm X40T. the ' * ' replaces a circle with a diagonal line through it. [since I can't find that on my keyboard] )
After tightening the nut and then cutting quite quickly through a piece of softwood two inches by three inches, I get just a very small burn mark. But cutting through some oak about two centimeters thick, I still get a burn mark, however fast or slow I cut it.
Sanding off these burn marks everytime will make a lot of extra work for me, in the future.
I got this Ryobi mitre saw from a catalogue company. It has had practically no use as yet apart from making a cabinet in a bedroom. Since I paid 80 for it, should I 'expect' and 'accept' that this bit of slop in the blade as being fairly normal, and these burn marks as normal? Could I reasonably expect the company to respond favourably to complaining about this amount of sideways slop in the blade? thanks.
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Fact is that many saws come with lousy blades. Put a quality blade on it and you will see a difference. The wobble is likely in the blade and not the arbor. The amount of wobble you are talking about would not be the source of burning. If the blade were sharp and had correctly formed teeth, that amount of blade wobble would be of no consequence. Replace the blade.

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thanks. Would anyone recommend a good blade that doesn't cost a mint?
Preferably one that's easy to get hold of in London. u.k. but otherwise could hold of it through the net or mail order. thanks.
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On Mon, 14 May 2007 12:56:17 GMT, "JWBH"

Try Axminster (web mail order). Their own brand are excellent quality for that low price range and they have a wide range of bore sizes and adapters so you should find one to fit.
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Ddepends what you call a mint,
Bought Freud blade last year for circular saw last year 184mm diam with 40 teeth for cross cutting - pretty clean cut on ash veneered MDF and cost around 20 with a discount. A 250mm 40 teeth is quoted in the catalogue at 30 and suitable for cross cutting and ripping. It should be readily available through a good tool supplier and you may be able to get a disount at some suppliers. The 60 teeth version is slighlty more expensive.
I was also recomended to Trend blades by a Record demonstrator at a show (he said not Record blades in general!) but do not know how much they cost,
Regards,
Bryan
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