building bedframe

What type of wood should I use to build a bedframe for a queen sized bed? I'd like to make poster-type 2x2" post, 1/2"x2" slats within the headboard footboad in a "mission style" design, so a basic metal frame seems like it wouldn't be good enough.
Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the weight if I use 1x6's?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com (in snipped-for-privacy@f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com) said:
| What type of wood should I use to build a bedframe for a queen sized | bed? I'd like to make poster-type 2x2" post, 1/2"x2" slats within | the headboard footboad in a "mission style" design, so a basic | metal frame seems like it wouldn't be good enough. | | Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the | weight if I use 1x6's?
I've seen some really good-looking pine beds. As to durability, I suspect that may have much to do with the number and weight of the occupants - and the specifics of their use of the bed... :o)
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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Can I make the headboard/footboard from pine as well, or do I risk the possibility of it warping over time?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I currently have a pine bed from Ikea. It's about 6 yrs old. Seems to be mostly 1x6, with bed bolts.
We had to brace the center legs a bit (<grin>) but the headboard/footboard have held up just fine. The pine is soft, so expect it to get dinged/dented more than a harder wood.
Chris
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There is nothing wrong with using pine. A few people may take issue that since is a cheap wood, but there is some very nice furniture built with it. It can be stained, it can be finished nicely. If it is what you like and in your budget. go for it.
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There's nothing wrong with pine, as long as you pick decent boards to begin with (fairly straight, relatively dry, and few knots). I personally like the look of hardwoods a lot better (especially cherry or quartersawn white oak), and these woods are heavier and more durable than pine also. But a pine bed could certainly last more than a lifetime - I'd guess the durability of a piece of furniture would have more to do with the quality of construction than with the type of wood (to a point, of course...). In other words, I'd rather have or make a good-quality pine bed with carefully-selected lumber than a shodily-made oak one. As far as 1x6's, I wouldn't use pine 1x's alone for anything structural (unless you laminate at least a few together). The side rails of the bed I just built are about 2 x 9" solid white oak, and the posts are about 3 1/2" square, each laminated from 3 oak boards. The ridgidity and sheer mass eliminate any movement of the frame - no matter what harsh tests we put it through... And pine can be stained, but it's sometimes prone to splotchiness - make sure you test on scrap, asyou might need a sanding sealer or wood conditioner of some sort to even out the coloration. Good luck and have fun, Andy
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

There are a few problems I have with pine (in the UK)
It's never going to look like "Mission" work.
Most "pine" isn't, especially if your trying to buy timber for cabinetry from a construction yard.
Even the pine pine is hard to find at decent quality.
I can also buy ash (which stains fairly well to resemble oak) more cheaply than I can buy a comparable quality of pine.
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Thanks, Andy.
I was going to point out that top quality pine is as expensive as some decent hardwoods.
Pine done right can look very nice with an orange shellac finish. In my eyes, pine looks horrible stained dark, even when great care is taken to prevent blotching. It just looks cheap to me when stained dark.
Come to think of it, ash can be a bright, interesting, beautiful wood with a simple clear coat, as well as taking a stain extremely easily. Ash is just an all around joy to work with. I recently did a "yoga room" using all ash trim and a 7" window sill with a wide crown underneath, and the wood is simply beautiful. The room has a lot of natural light, and the ash really lights up.
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I had a frame and couldn't get a boxspring up, so I supported the mattress only. I bought two brand new white hollow core doors, together they make a perfect Q. I think they were $25 CDN each, and ready for framing.
-
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

and humping post (centre leg) 6x1 with dowelled and glued 2x1 runners to carry the 6x1 slats and ends same to carry spine, spine rail again 6x1 (flat this time) with a 2x4 under running brace, with the 5th leg right in the middle. NO metallic fasteners at all, everything dowelled, some glued some not, takes down to move. One change to my original design, attach one leg to each side and each end to avoid movement, rather than both sides at foot end and two on head cross beam. Built a single that way for the MIL, she's very happy, even with 2x3 legs and 4x1 rails its more than strong enough, and being taller than any factory made bed just the right height for her. Self and SWTSMBO have given ours a good load test over the years, with our sons (9 & 12) bouncing around as well as us lying quietly, it only moved a fraction, I'm 17 stones and we're all big!
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badger.badger wrote:

You have a "humping post" in your bed? <G>
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Now, this is why making your own furniture is so much better than store bought stuff - it's the custom features you can add in, like a "humping post"!
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The Sofa table is Ponderosa Pine. The Vanity and workbench are Yellow Pine.
Pine doesn't stain very well but Yellow pine can be attractive with a natural finish. It acquires an amber hue over time.
Max
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