Brushes for a Delta 36-220 CMS...

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On 5/14/2016 5:09 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Another post with missing information. Where do you get the screw? Does it have to be Delta OEM? What if it is metric and I don't have a metric screwdriver. Can you post a link to a website with a work-around?
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In the case of my milwaukee cutoff saw it was the opposite - The original handle parts were no longer available - so I installed the handle from the next version of the saw, and needed the screw from the old switch - if I remeber correctly which was missing from the broken handle. IIRC I ordered both screws because I didn't know which would be required. The new handle specified a different switch but the old one fit
I could have likely gotten away with a salvaged or hardware screw and a bit of tinkering but the OEM screws were available for something like a ridiculous $1.25 each .
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LOL. You dot that too. :-)
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Now that I know what their braking system is, I would like to recommend this.
Take the motor off, take it to a motor shop for a cleanup, and have the armature dressed up and new brushes then installed.
Motor brushes by their nature eat into the armature and the brushes set the way they normally run. When the Motor operation is turned into a generator it is now operating on brushes with a partial seating.
It also could be a faulty diode, etc. but then the brake would never work once one of those components failed.
http://slmti.com/windings/windingpics/dcarm.jpg
If you look at this picture the shiny copper portion is the armature, each section separated by mica and has a slight indentation, like a 1/16 th of an inch or so. Usually a saw blade can cut it down, the copper needs to be round, best done on a lathe.
Old guys with 6 volt generators and starters would know this as well as any electricians if they worked on their own cars.
Just wanted to pass a little on.
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My Kobalt never did work properly. Reseating the brushes occasionally helps, but it still doesn't work every time. So maybe it's the switch?
If I play with the switch, the brake does activate. Even if I don't, though, it's a 15-30 second spin down so not too bad.
Puckdropper
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A new switch, or a modification to use a sealed relay to control both power and braking - with the relay operated by the switch, will solve the problem over 90% of the time. That switch operates under extrreme conditions of dirt and vibration and is subject to atnmospheric conditions dust, sweat, dirt and oils that are very destructive - and the contacts NEED to handle not only the running current, the starting surges AND the brake current (which is often as high as or higher than the starting current)
Same problem on electric lawn mowers. The switch is the problem in the vast majority of cases - and the whole mlawnmower gets sent to the curb because of an inedequately designed switch.
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Bob, these brushes fit my 36-220 perfectly, without any need of filing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-set-for-Delta-saws-5-8-x-1-4-face-motor-brushes-two-brushes-/191871428040
http://www.normstools.com/images/normstools/36-220.shtml
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 12:56:41 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:

point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugges ted new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was saf er to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

shes-two-brushes-/191871428040

Hi Norm, haven't seen you since I left the show <wink>! Thanks, all I can s ay is...the ones in mine are 17mm X 7mm X 15?mm.
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Yea, the show had to let you go because of your inability to measure in imperial units, the way God intended <grin>!

DIMENSIONS NEW ARE: 0.276" X 0.669" X 0.673" http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206838894
Is this you from '09, Bob? https://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/1922-delta-miter-saw-model-36-220-type-2-a.html
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:

Norm, are those measurements from the OEM brushes or the ones from eBay?
No, that wasn't me, but the information was useful. Thanks!
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:

Those measurements are the same as mine...thanks for that link!
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 6:58:15 PM UTC-5, Norm Abram wrote:

With your measurements confirming and adding to the accuracy of mine...I found brushes on eBay. Changing them restored the dynamic braking! 8^) Thanks again!
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On 5/19/2016 12:47 PM, Bob Villa wrote:

Good to hear BUT! Keep in mind you may have a short term fix. Unless your old brushes were actually almost worn out there was probably a cause for the brushes to fail prematurely.
Keep us posted!
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On Fri, 13 May 2016 09:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

Brushes have absolutely nothing to do with slowing down. New systems sometimes will have brakes built in, if you buy a better brand.
New stuff is cheaper if you buy cheap or inexpensive equipment, you get what you pay for most of the time. Your old high speed blades, for instance, suck when compared to the newer carbide saw blades.
So nothing is wrong with your saw, if you want it to slow down faster then when you turn the power off, start cutting a piece of scrap wood, it will stop real fast.
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:38:25 PM UTC-5, OFWW wrote:

point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugges ted new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was saf er to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

Here is a quote from page 8 of the DeWalt DW708 Sliding Compound Miter Saw instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the sa w on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes.. .and try the saw again." (I don't have manual for mine, but I will try to find one)
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On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 5:55:02 PM UTC-5, Bob Villa wrote:

is point, has decent brushes but doesn't stop as it should. Folks have sugg ested new brushes and blowing out the sawdust. It would be nice if it was s afer to use...as new stuff tends to be made cheaper and doesn't last.

w instruction manual: "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the bla de in about 3 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes ...and try the saw again."

I have printed-out the manual for the 36-220, and there are no instructions for the brake problem.
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On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

The "If (the brake will not function properly), turn the saw on and off four or five times" indicates the switch problem is a more common cause than the brushes.
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On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

My apologies Bob, I assumed that when you said old saw and unavailable saw that you meant a table or radial arm saw. And that if the brushes were bad then it wouldn't run. Now you are speaking as if it does have a brake (newer) and it is possibly a sliding Compound saw.
So I jumped to conclusions that I shouldn't have. Perhaps the next time when you post you could include all this information up front?
At this point are you even sure you have a braking system on it?
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wrote:

Welcome to the troll go round, note the names.
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On Fri, 13 May 2016 15:54:59 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa

My apologies, I assumed you said old as in antiquity, and the parts were no longer available. Now you speak of a braking system, newer and so on.
Perhaps next time you could include all the missing info right up front?
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