Brad point drill bits

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On Wed, 08 Dec 2010 18:59:46 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

HAR! So, did the boss get his money back? or Did he forcefully return them to the vendor without receipt while physically showing the vendor what he meant about the balsa teddy? (ouch)
-- Invest in America: Buy a CONgresscritter today!
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Steve wrote:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081568/30005/170-Piece-TiN-Coated-Brad-Point-Drill-Bit-Set-With-Drill-Bit-Gauge.aspx
Yeah Steve, less than a quarter a piece--probably really sharp! :)
Bill
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Bill wrote:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966264000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
Regardless of where you ultimately buy them, once you have them - or maybe before - you'll start dreaming of a set of stop collars for them.
My advice is, give up the dream. If you get split collars you'll find that you have to tighten them so much that they can become next to impossible to get off. If you get collars that fasten with a set screw you'll find that they don't lie perpendicular to the bit. Either kind can and will mar whatever you are drilling. Both kinds also get packed up with chips.
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On 12/2/2010 9:20 PM, Bill wrote:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966264000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
I have a ton of twist drills ranging from super high quality to junk. The difference is awe inspiring. I have one set of brad point bits that I bought for those times when I wanted super clean holes with pin point accuracy. I bought a set and rarely use them because I don't need them most of the time and I bought a cheap set of Sears, that look just like the one you list up there, but I'm certain I didn't pay $40 for them. (it was a while ago)
Whats wrong with them is 50% of the reason I bought them was super clean holes... not so much. I recommend you get the Lee Valley bits for just $3 more. I don't own them, but they advertise they are sharp, (they resharpen them themselves) and stay sharp, and people that own them have said they like them. I own the Sears, and would recommend Lee Valley.
I sharpen my own twist drills, not a clue how to sharpen brad points, so get ones that are sharp and stay sharp, and only use them when needed.
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Jack
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On 12/3/2010 8:21 AM, Jack Stein wrote:

I find your experience compelling! Thank you for sharing it! It appears I should probably have two sets, one for hogging-out waste and one "good" set.
Bill
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No, once you find that the good set hogs out twice as fast, the cheap set will probably never be used.
One of the data points in the Fine Woodworking test was how fast it could drill and how fast. Major difference between the cheap and good ones.
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966264000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
If you are serious about a good set of brad poing pits, "Colt" Twinland "5 STAR" brad point bits. The larger sizes used in a DP do not need a backer board to prevent tear out on the back side. Pricey but these actually come sharp to start with and are made of HSS.
Colt makes a less expensive bit but the "5 Star" bits are the best.
I have several and love them!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPGG9wCMLoc

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On 12/3/2010 9:19 AM, Leon wrote:

That was quite informative about the topic. Thank you for posting.
Bill
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Woodcraft sells them and one at a time, buy "one" that you would use the most, for me it is the 3/8" bit. That bit will not blow your budget and will prove to you why they are the best. If you think you would like a set you can go that route afterward.
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wrote:

Those look superb! Price isn't bad, either. http://fwd4.me/r9g http://fwd4.me/r9h although some places are gouging $70 for 'em.
-- "Human nature itself is evermore an advocate for liberty. There is also in human nature a resentment of injury, and indignation against wrong. A love of truth and a veneration of virtue. These amiable passions, are the latent spark. If the people are capable of understanding, seeing and feeling the differences between true and false, right and wrong, virtue and vice, to what better principle can the friends of mankind apply than to the sense of this difference?" --John Adams
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Ahem... You're perfectly aware, I presume, that those are not the Colt Twinland Brad point bits from their "Five Star" collection. This may be akin to comparing wine by Earnest and Julio Gallo with that of Chateau Lafite Rothschild. I think I've seen posts from E and J in this forum!
Bill
Bill
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Well, they are Twinland and I could have sworn they were the 5-star, too. I searched for Colt Twinland. Hmm...maybe I didn't search for 5-star. They're the $80 set. My bad.
-- "Human nature itself is evermore an advocate for liberty. There is also in human nature a resentment of injury, and indignation against wrong. A love of truth and a veneration of virtue. These amiable passions, are the latent spark. If the people are capable of understanding, seeing and feeling the differences between true and false, right and wrong, virtue and vice, to what better principle can the friends of mankind apply than to the sense of this difference?" --John Adams
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Be careful with Twinland, as I mentioned and quoted, they have to be the "5 Star" bits.
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I started with a 3/8" bit and true as stated I drilled through several pieces of wood including plywood. All were elevated above the DP table and none tore out on the bottom as the bit exited. The hole was clean on both sides. Several months ago Woodcraft closed out odd sized 5 Star bits and I scooped a bunch up at about 1/3 retail.
The smaller sizes, some where around 1/8" and smaller did not fair as well but the big bits yield Forstner bit type results.
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On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:20:28 -0500, Bill wrote:

Don't know if there's a Woodcraft near you but they usually have bits in various quality ranges. I have a set of very good HSS bits that I use for critical stuff. For run of the mill drilling I use cheap bits and toss them when they get dull.
Woodcraft has some cheap bits in a set. Ten each of the smaller sizes and 5 each of the larger sizes. About 25 cents a bit. They also carry the Colt on the high end of the quality range. Pretty good combination.
--
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On 12/3/2010 1:07 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Yep, I do have Woodcraft (as well as a Rockler) within 35 miles. I'll take a look.
One thing I have learned from this thread is the need for 2 sets of drill bits (cheap and good), and maybe even more if you want both long and short shanked ones! I'll let me needs steer my drill bit collection.
If you want to talk about collections, I'll have to tell you about my grandfather's nail collection some time. We surmised that he must have bought a new bag of nails, half-full lunch sacks, for almost every task that came up. it was sort of amusing as we'd encounter new stashes.."Hey, you'll never guess what I found!".
Bill
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You guys, go ahead and use your shiny high dollar bits. I am sure they are of much higher quality than my cheapo HF set. OTOH, I've used the cheap set to drill hundreds of holes for dowels, overlapping holes to be cleaned up with a chisel for mortises, and many other purposes and never had a problem. We're talking about drilling holes in WOOD after all.
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That is like saying you've been enjoying sex all alone, so no need to invite a woman.
I'm sure the cheap sets make holes, but the higher priced ones make them faster, cleaner, better chip clearing. But if you're happy, that's all that counts.
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Your last point is by far the most important. After all, with the money I saved by buying cheapo brad point bits, I'm sure I was able to purchase SOMETHING that you don't have! :)
--
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Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
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On 12/3/10 11:23 PM, Larry W wrote:

Which is exactly why I'm considering those Colt German bits. Did you see the entry and exit holes made by those things? Perfectly clean without any backer boards.
I have cheap AND expensive bits that tear-out on entry and blowout on exit.
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