Tough design problem.
Could be as simple as screwing a 2x4 across the corner and hanging the
screen on. Not elegant, but the screen would hide the lumber.
A little more refined could be an appropriately sized corner shelf
reinforced with 1x2 material on the outside edge with plywood hanging
down to attach the screen to. The top of the screen could be just
below level of the shelf.
Custom built corner cabinet with shelving for the receiver/DVD/cable
box and storage for all your CDs and DVDs, then the screen mounted
where the glass doors normally go.
Let us know what you decide to do.
Not sure if this will help but... On the bottom of my 42" plasma
are two holes. I mounted a rod into a piece of walnut burl with epoxy
(about 10 by 20 by 3 thick) and did this two times. Placed the two
matched burl pieces on my floor standing shelf unit made with black
oak slats (24 by 48 by 30 tall, holds my power amps, power supplies and
crossover). The monitor is held up without any obstructions, clamps or
wall brackets (and there is no plastic!). You could mount a wood
shelf to the corner of the room and insert two rods into the shelf to
support the monitor. Maybe a corner torsion box? Make sure there is
wood all the way through where the two rods are inserted.
Drive by for those that can't id it. I figure if you can afford the 50"
plasma...you can afford the 6 Franklins.
I have a 42" and I figure on making one with some angle iron, fixed
position bracket attached to the middle of a wall. Things that move out
and in, up and down cost a lot.
Its really a job for aluminum or steel. Unless you made some laminated arm
with a sturdy shelve and top mount that you could drill and mount using the
TV's mounting holes. Mine has threaded holes in the bottom and back for
this sort of attachment. I just made one from aluminum tubing and angle.
But then again, I can weld aluminum.
I find aluminum an exellent material for most of my jig- and pattern
needs in my solid surface fabrication.
Between aluminum and Baltic Birch, one has the abilty to create
fabulous looking furniture. A bit of leather and cherry for a touch of
class...and all is well with the world.
Knowing what you know about welding aluminum, what would your
suggestion be for a newbie? That ONE piece of advice? Is it possible to
do a decent job without breaking the bank for equipment? Most of my raw
materials would be no thicker than 1/4" wall. Mostly angle, flat and
I realize that there may be more than ONE piece of advice, Dave. *G*
I don't know my MIG from my TIG or a FIG, TIFF, JPEG...you get the
Maybe a link to an informative forum?
Thank you, sir.
I too would be very interested in any information about welding aluminum.
I'm presently in the design stage for something that I want to build and
market that would primarily be constructed out of aluminum.
Welding aluminum is not as tricky as those who weld it would have you
The benefits to a woodworker are many, build jigs and fixtures are just a
few. Two choices are available to us, TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) or MIG
(Metal Inert Gas).
The site below spells it out in simple detail.
From my perspective, MIG welding aluminum is the simplest and strong but not
that pretty. TIG is the most versatile, makes very nice looking welds but
require good skills and equipment.
I have a MIG welder at home and access to a TIG at work. Nine out of ten
time I'll just weld it with the MIG.
You might check in at sci.engr.joining.welding they are helpful to new
welders. Good place to lurk.
Welder's Handbook by Richard Finch will get most anybody started.
PS: Buying a welder - Is an important decision for a beginner. Buy too
small or inadequate welder will only frustrate you. Not unlike buying a 8"
tablesaw and trying to rip some 6/4 purpleheart. The BORG's sell a small
MIG (wire feed) welder that is OK for 1/8" steel. They work fine for fixing
bicycles, yard fences or body work but little else.
However, a stick welder, like a Lincoln "Tombstone" or "Buzz box" is a good
machine for most any steel work. If Aluminum is in your future, move up to
the Miller MIG with the spoolgun.
Well, looking at the Best Buy site it looks like they weigh around 70
pounds, so set 210 as a design objective and you've got a good safety
margin. That's not a huge load. Over a 5 foot or so span a 2x4 should
handle it fine, if you want to overkill it then use 2x6.
The set should have holes on the back for a mounting bracket.
Get four 2x4s of appropriate length and four joist hangers. Rip one edge of
each 2x4 at an angle, use four appropriate Strong-Ties to fasten two of the
2x4s to studs, fasten the other two to the back of the set using the
mounting holes, set it down so that the angled edges lock, and you're done.
If you don't trust 2x4s for the part mounted to the wall then use 2x6 or
2x8. Once they're in place and before you mount the set, stand on the
bottom one and bounce a few times. If it doesn't come down then you're
Alternatively, you can run some studs up to the ceiling and fasten them to
the floor and ceiling joists, then fasten crosspieces to them and proceed
Now, if you want _pretty_ . . .
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