Bookshelf and laminating question again


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I was the oen that asked if I could glue up boards using my router as a jointer to make boards wide enough to build a bookshelf. The plan called for plywood but I am trying to save money as I already have alot of rough cut red oak.
Anyway, can I glue these boards togther to former larger pannels without needing to use buscuits or dowels? Someone told me that I needed to use one or the other because over time the wood would want to separate where they are glued togther.
Also, I still have polyurethane glue left from building that cutting board. Can I use it? It was a bear to clean up though on my cutting board. (From the foam out). Or is regular yellow glue just as good and lasts just as long?
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stryped wrote:

We remember.

Good thing to have lots of.

Yes.
Wrong. (as long as they're glued well; i.e. long grain-long grain, no large gaps or sawdust, etc.)

Sure. Dampen one surface if your wood is very dry.

Use less. (Until you get just a tiny bit of foam out, then clean up with acetone while it's soft. Or scrape it off when it's dry - I've found this easier than cleaning up hardened yellow glue)

True, unless you plan to be getting your bookshelf wet, in which case you could use Titebond III.
Good luck, Andy
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stryped wrote:

Yes. All those do is help align the edges during glue-up.

No. The real problem is that the entire panel might want to cup as one board.
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Speaking of that, when glueing up pannels I have one book that says to orient the end grain in the same direction, and another that says to alternate them. Which is right? boorite wrote:

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stryped wrote:

I've always read you're supposed to alternate, which has worked fine for me.
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