Board n' Baton siding question

When putting board n' baton siding on a building, and the boards aren't long enough to go from top to bottom, what is the proper way to "join" the boards. Butt joints would be the easiest but I think that be a place for rot to start. Using rough pine with no preservatives btw.
Do you overlap a couple of inches? How do you finish the corners where the gap would be?
Do you cut a 45 on each board so the overlap doesn't stick out an inch? This would take more time but would leave a cleaner looking building. Should shed the water and keep it from rotting too.... I think.
What would you do?
Any help would be appreciated.
Bryan RSG Roll call: http://rec-sport-golf.com?rc rgusonb
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On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:43:32 -0400, "Bryan Berguson"

ahem. that would be board and batten siding.

I'd scarf them. basically a butt joint, but angled at about 30 degrees so that the joint drains to the outside of the building.

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Thanks for the correction! I was so involved with thinking of the best way to do it that I never considered the correct spelling. Board and baton would make a silly looking siding now wouldn't it.

Thanks!!!
Bryan
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And put a backer behind the joint, or make it on a purlin. I think it's nuts not to use a stain, or at least clear preservative, preferably on both sides, unless you really don't want it ot last. Try to keep the bottom ends dry and away from the ground. Wilson

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Yes, on the backer board. It's a 2X8 that doubles as a floor joist for the upstairs "play room" for my boy. Bottom ends will be well away from the ground except on one corner. I have to do some digging there. The floor system is all treated so that's not a problem.
Bryan
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Just reminds me - Did some board and batten work back in the late 80's for a guy who would buy houses and quick rehab them to convert to SRO housing. Did as good a job as I could until he wanted me to run romex between the new & old siding, at which point I quit - God, I wonder what those places look like now! My only advice: at least use galv screws to fasten the battens, not nails.
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I have faced exactly this problem in the past. I opted to splice the pieces. Since we are talking about rough pine, the pine shrunk as it dried and now there is a horizontal water trap. On my latest building with B&B, I used full length boards; that meant 16 footers for the end peaks but at least there will not be a water trap. IMHO there is nothing wrong with nailing battens on. I use 2 1/4 galvanized ring nails.
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