Blistering Veneer!

[Marc]

Hi there,

I applied some "iron-on" Cedan maple veneer to some baltic birch cabinet doors. Unfortunately, when I spayed the doors with some water-based urethane ("Varathane") I noticed 3, 1 inch sized blisters on the doors. What can I do to fix this? I don't suppose I can take the iron to them again with the new urethane?

Thanks

Marc

[tom]

I'm thinking you might have to do just that. You may also need to provide an escape for the air you've trapped under the veneer. A tiny pinhole or slit (along the grain) at an edge of the pocket, and roll out to the edge.Then sand lightlyand re-spray. HTH. Tom

[John Girouard]

I've never tried it, but this seems like it should work. 'Borrowed' from

"Occasionally, bubbles or "blisters" will form in a veneer in an area where there is an insufficient amount of glue in that particular spot on the substrate. To repair a blister, drill two small holes -- each about

1/32-inch (figure F).

Use a syringe to squeeze yellow glue into the blister until it pops out of the other pinhole (figure G). Add wax paper, a caul and clamp to add pressure on the blister and flatten it as the glue dries. In a few hours, the blistered veneer will be perfectly flat."

-John in NH

[Robert Galloway]

I don't know if you've got an inconspicuous spot for experimenting. Tom suggested a slit or pinhole. Make the pinhole with a 30 ga needle, inject a little of Rockler's thin cyano (or equivalent) put a piece of teflon over the bubble and clamp. If done with care and no visible squeeze out, you might dodge the need for any refinishing. The Teflon is just a precaution in case there is some squeeze out. Ideally, you can limit the amount of glue so there is no squeeze out.

rhg

tom wrote:

[Andy Dingley]

Don't drill holes - they'll be visible afterwards. An enormous scalpel slit will be invisible afterwards, so long as you cut along the grain.

[Marc]

Thanks for the advice guys!