Blistering Veneer!


Hi there,
I applied some "iron-on" Cedan maple veneer to some baltic birch cabinet doors. Unfortunately, when I spayed the doors with some water-based urethane ("Varathane") I noticed 3, 1 inch sized blisters on the doors. What can I do to fix this? I don't suppose I can take the iron to them again with the new urethane?
Thanks
Marc
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I'm thinking you might have to do just that. You may also need to provide an escape for the air you've trapped under the veneer. A tiny pinhole or slit (along the grain) at an edge of the pocket, and roll out to the edge.Then sand lightlyand re-spray. HTH. Tom
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I don't know if you've got an inconspicuous spot for experimenting. Tom suggested a slit or pinhole. Make the pinhole with a 30 ga needle, inject a little of Rockler's thin cyano (or equivalent) put a piece of teflon over the bubble and clamp. If done with care and no visible squeeze out, you might dodge the need for any refinishing. The Teflon is just a precaution in case there is some squeeze out. Ideally, you can limit the amount of glue so there is no squeeze out.
rhg
tom wrote:

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Marc wrote:

I've never tried it, but this seems like it should work. 'Borrowed' from
<http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_other/article/0,2049,DIY_14443_2559170,00.html
"Occasionally, bubbles or "blisters" will form in a veneer in an area where there is an insufficient amount of glue in that particular spot on the substrate. To repair a blister, drill two small holes -- each about 1/32-inch (figure F).
Use a syringe to squeeze yellow glue into the blister until it pops out of the other pinhole (figure G). Add wax paper, a caul and clamp to add pressure on the blister and flatten it as the glue dries. In a few hours, the blistered veneer will be perfectly flat."
-John in NH
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wrote:

Don't drill holes - they'll be visible afterwards. An enormous scalpel slit will be invisible afterwards, so long as you cut along the grain.
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Thanks for the advice guys!
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