blade wobble


Hi, I have recently been given a craftsman radial arm saw from my wifes uncle. The blade has a wobble sorta.....when you spin the blade by hand you see a very noticeable wobble, about 3/8". When you start the saw up you can see this same wobble until the saw gets up to full speed then you cannot see the wobble anymore. If i cut a piece of wood it cuts clean and straight 90 degree cuts. I've also cut a groove into a 2X4 and it's cut strait and at a 90 degree and the groove when finished is the same width as the kerf of the blade. It would seem to me by what I have tried is that once up to full speed the wobble in the blade goes away. When I line up the blade to do a cut the blade lines up where I want to cut but then once I start the cut because of the wobble of the blade it cuts off the line somewhere random in this roughly 3/8" area where the blade wobbles before seeming to straightenout once up to full speed. I have tried interchanged the blades with those in my table saw and mitre saw and there is no wobble in the blades in those saws so it's not the blade. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is a Craftsman 35th Anniversary Limited Anniversary Special Edition Model number 113.278541C. Hmmmm, do you think the wobble is part of the after affects of the celebration?????
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Justa Beginner wrote:

another lure hits the water...
Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
HUH?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Justa Beginner wrote:

nice try. We are used to the old "gee, what ever do you mean?" when someone quickly spots a troll.
Enjoy your thread! :)
Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sounds like you need to tighten your nuts.
In more ways than one....
"Justa Beginner" <upick1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message

you
can
see
90
a
the
in
is
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The nut is tight.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Or, get your shaft straightened. (Or your leader less visible. We can still hear the "splash.")
If you're serious, then you've some study ahead. (That's called RTFM in some areas, as in "read the #$%$^^ manual.") The subject is "runout"- the many & varied ways a rotating object can deviate from idealized motion. From whatever source of disruption. How to categorize, measure, and minimize. Get back to us after, say, Ch. 6.
HTH, John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thats the term I was looking for, runout, thanks, did a search and found alot of info. Now just to sift through it all.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
What make/kind of blade? Carbide?
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tried a freud diablo, a shopsmith, think thats the name and the no name one that come with my mitre saw, all carbide tipped.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Justa Beginner" <upick1athotmaildotcom> wrote in

The 'splash', 'troll' comments are from those who suspect your motive behind the post.
If you're not trolling, cut the regulars in the group some leeway as this group suffers from people who troll/inflame/incite, etc.
Even tho' you say the cuts are nice and straight at full rotational speed, I'd still be very concerned about this machine having that much wobble. I don't own an RAS, but I'd sure as heck consider this abnormal behavior and not use it until I knew more.
Call Sears and see if you can get it hooked up with a technician.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've been around long enough to know that most people just like to hear themselves talk, lets them know they are alive when they think others don't notice. Will try call sears service on monday. Going to do some reading on runout and pick up a dial guage tomorrow or this morning after work.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Justa Beginner wrote: ...

...
Start w/ the shaft and the rear flange...one of them has to be out. I'd suspect the saw has been dropped or otherwise mishandled at some time. Such a large problem shouldn't be hard to discern the cause...whether it's fixable (at reasonable cost) will depend on what is actually wrong.
Of course, it's also possible there's simply some obstruction on the flange keeping the blade from seating flush...
Obtw, I had one Freud blade on which the arbor hole was slightly undersize and would not snug up to the flange owing to binding on the shaft where the threads ended...since you tried more than one blade, it's probably not the blade hole, but if the shaft were slightly large you could have a similar situation...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<snip>

Shopsmith doesn't make a radial arm saw, and their typical arbor holes are NOT the 5/8" standard for table saws, but rather 1" (I think).
If this is a Shopsmith tablesaw blade on the wrong saw, some strange behavior could definitely result, as Duane surmises here.
OP: Please be careful. I hate to read accident reports.
Patriarch
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Yes, sorry, it is a powersonic 60 tooth blade on the ts.
Ok, picked up a dial gauge yesterday checked out the shaft which by my measurements seems to be fine but, let me see if i can explain this right.....on the shaft starting from left to right looking at the saw there is the nut that tightens the blade then the outer flange, the blade, then the inner flange. The inner flange seats up against what looks like another nut which is also used to put a second wrench on when tightening the blade. It is either pressed onto the shaft or welded to it. Whatever it is it is this inner non adjustable nut which is out. With the blade tight I can see that the inner flange is not seating properly against this nut. Looking at the face of the nut where the flange would press i can that 2/3 of the nut and flange seat properly but the other 1/3 I can see a noticalbe gap so it would see me that either this inner nut has shifted or something. Not sure of how I can fix, I'm sure there is a way, was thinking about maybe a die grinder mounted to the table of the saw and and turning the accessory side of the shaft and taking down the high spot. The major problem I can see with this, other than not having a die grinder, would be ensuring the ginder and the saw are square to eachother and stay square thoughout the process. Maybe there is another easier way. There is a hole going through this inner nut and shaft that i can see all the way though, there is something in this whole, thought maybe it was a adjustment screw or set screw of some kind but there is nothing there.....maybe the set screw has come out and pushed it out of alignment? Well hopefully I haven't messed up too badly trying to explain this problem and maybe someone can help me out.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Justa Beginner wrote:

...
You either need to seat that flange correctly, or replace the shaft. You don't do it by grinding on it. It may be possible to press it into place properly but will probably take a machine shop press to do so. I suspect more than ever the saw was dropped or had some other major mishap...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Spoke with my wifes uncle this morning and he said he hasn't used the saw in 3 years as the last time he used it he was cutting 6X6 garden ties and it started to bind pretty bad when he flipped the tie to cut through other side that it cracked the blade when it twisted so maybe/probably sent something out of alignment. One of girls at work is married to machinist who does odd jobs from his garage, will talk to him see if he can look at it, probably better off to have someone access it who knows more about this kind of stuff than me messing with it and making it worse or more dangerous.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
At this point, fixing the "nut" is going to require that the arbor be removed, and frankly, I think if you are going to do that, I would just see if you can get a NEW replacement and install it after the old one is removed.
John
On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 00:51:25 -0400, "Justa Beginner" <upick1athotmaildotcom> wrote:>Spoke with my wifes uncle this morning and he said he hasn't used the saw in

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.