blade wobble

[Justa Beginner]

Hi, I have recently been given a craftsman radial arm saw from my wifes uncle. The blade has a wobble sorta.....when you spin the blade by hand you see a very noticeable wobble, about 3/8". When you start the saw up you can see this same wobble until the saw gets up to full speed then you cannot see the wobble anymore. If i cut a piece of wood it cuts clean and straight 90 degree cuts. I've also cut a groove into a 2X4 and it's cut strait and at a

90 degree and the groove when finished is the same width as the kerf of the blade. It would seem to me by what I have tried is that once up to full speed the wobble in the blade goes away. When I line up the blade to do a cut the blade lines up where I want to cut but then once I start the cut because of the wobble of the blade it cuts off the line somewhere random in this roughly 3/8" area where the blade wobbles before seeming to straightenout once up to full speed. I have tried interchanged the blades with those in my table saw and mitre saw and there is no wobble in the blades in those saws so it's not the blade. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. BTW this is a Craftsman 35th Anniversary Limited Anniversary Special Edition Model number 113.278541C. Hmmmm, do you think the wobble is part of the after affects of the celebration?????

[David]

another lure hits the water...

Dave

[George]

Sounds like you need to tighten your nuts.

In more ways than one....

[Justa Beginner]

[Justa Beginner]

[David]

nice try. We are used to the old "gee, what ever do you mean?" when someone quickly spots a troll.

Enjoy your thread! :)

Dave

[barry]

Or, get your shaft straightened. (Or your leader less visible. We can still hear the "splash.")

If you're serious, then you've some study ahead. (That's called RTFM in some areas, as in "read the #$%$^^ manual.") The subject is "runout"- the many & varied ways a rotating object can deviate from idealized motion. From whatever source of disruption. How to categorize, measure, and minimize. Get back to us after, say, Ch. 6.

HTH, John

[Patrick Conroy]

"Justa Beginner" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The 'splash', 'troll' comments are from those who suspect your motive behind the post.

If you're not trolling, cut the regulars in the group some leeway as this group suffers from people who troll/inflame/incite, etc.

Even tho' you say the cuts are nice and straight at full rotational speed, I'd still be very concerned about this machine having that much wobble. I don't own an RAS, but I'd sure as heck consider this abnormal behavior and not use it until I knew more.

Call Sears and see if you can get it hooked up with a technician.

[Rumpty]

What make/kind of blade? Carbide?

[Justa Beginner]

[Justa Beginner]

[Justa Beginner]

[Duane Bozarth]

Justa Beginner wrote: ...

...

Start w/ the shaft and the rear flange...one of them has to be out. I'd suspect the saw has been dropped or otherwise mishandled at some time. Such a large problem shouldn't be hard to discern the cause...whether it's fixable (at reasonable cost) will depend on what is actually wrong.

Of course, it's also possible there's simply some obstruction on the flange keeping the blade from seating flush...

Obtw, I had one Freud blade on which the arbor hole was slightly undersize and would not snug up to the flange owing to binding on the shaft where the threads ended...since you tried more than one blade, it's probably not the blade hole, but if the shaft were slightly large you could have a similar situation...

[Patriarch]

Duane Bozarth wrote in news:42C6A358.DE558BA7 @swko.dot.net:

Shopsmith doesn't make a radial arm saw, and their typical arbor holes are NOT the 5/8" standard for table saws, but rather 1" (I think).

If this is a Shopsmith tablesaw blade on the wrong saw, some strange behavior could definitely result, as Duane surmises here.

OP: Please be careful. I hate to read accident reports.

Patriarch

[Justa Beginner]

Yes, sorry, it is a powersonic 60 tooth blade on the ts.

Ok, picked up a dial gauge yesterday checked out the shaft which by my measurements seems to be fine but, let me see if i can explain this right.....on the shaft starting from left to right looking at the saw there is the nut that tightens the blade then the outer flange, the blade, then the inner flange. The inner flange seats up against what looks like another nut which is also used to put a second wrench on when tightening the blade. It is either pressed onto the shaft or welded to it. Whatever it is it is this inner non adjustable nut which is out. With the blade tight I can see that the inner flange is not seating properly against this nut. Looking at the face of the nut where the flange would press i can that 2/3 of the nut and flange seat properly but the other 1/3 I can see a noticalbe gap so it would see me that either this inner nut has shifted or something. Not sure of how I can fix, I'm sure there is a way, was thinking about maybe a die grinder mounted to the table of the saw and and turning the accessory side of the shaft and taking down the high spot. The major problem I can see with this, other than not having a die grinder, would be ensuring the ginder and the saw are square to eachother and stay square thoughout the process. Maybe there is another easier way. There is a hole going through this inner nut and shaft that i can see all the way though, there is something in this whole, thought maybe it was a adjustment screw or set screw of some kind but there is nothing there.....maybe the set screw has come out and pushed it out of alignment? Well hopefully I haven't messed up too badly trying to explain this problem and maybe someone can help me out.

"Patriarch" wrote in message news:Xns9687501F453F6patriarchatcomcastdo@216.196.97.136...

[Duane Bozarth]

...

You either need to seat that flange correctly, or replace the shaft. You don't do it by grinding on it. It may be possible to press it into place properly but will probably take a machine shop press to do so. I suspect more than ever the saw was dropped or had some other major mishap...

[Justa Beginner]

[John]

At this point, fixing the "nut" is going to require that the arbor be removed, and frankly, I think if you are going to do that, I would just see if you can get a NEW replacement and install it after the old one is removed.

John