Hi, I have recently been given a craftsman radial arm saw from my wifes
uncle. The blade has a wobble sorta.....when you spin the blade by hand you
see a very noticeable wobble, about 3/8". When you start the saw up you can
see this same wobble until the saw gets up to full speed then you cannot see
the wobble anymore. If i cut a piece of wood it cuts clean and straight 90
degree cuts. I've also cut a groove into a 2X4 and it's cut strait and at a
90 degree and the groove when finished is the same width as the kerf of the
blade. It would seem to me by what I have tried is that once up to full
speed the wobble in the blade goes away. When I line up the blade to do a
cut the blade lines up where I want to cut but then once I start the cut
because of the wobble of the blade it cuts off the line somewhere random in
this roughly 3/8" area where the blade wobbles before seeming to
straightenout once up to full speed. I have tried interchanged the blades
with those in my table saw and mitre saw and there is no wobble in the
blades in those saws so it's not the blade. Any ideas would be greatly
appreciated. BTW this is a Craftsman 35th Anniversary Limited Anniversary
Special Edition Model number 113.278541C. Hmmmm, do you think the wobble is
part of the after affects of the celebration?????
Or, get your shaft straightened. (Or your leader less visible. We can
still hear the "splash.")
If you're serious, then you've some study ahead. (That's called RTFM
in some areas, as in "read the #$%$^^ manual.") The subject is
"runout"- the many & varied ways a rotating object can deviate from
idealized motion. From whatever source of disruption. How to
categorize, measure, and minimize. Get back to us after, say, Ch. 6.
The 'splash', 'troll' comments are from those who suspect your motive
behind the post.
If you're not trolling, cut the regulars in the group some leeway as this
group suffers from people who troll/inflame/incite, etc.
Even tho' you say the cuts are nice and straight at full rotational
speed, I'd still be very concerned about this machine having that much
wobble. I don't own an RAS, but I'd sure as heck consider this abnormal
behavior and not use it until I knew more.
Call Sears and see if you can get it hooked up with a technician.
I've been around long enough to know that most people just like to hear
themselves talk, lets them know they are alive when they think others don't
Will try call sears service on monday. Going to do some reading on runout
and pick up a dial guage tomorrow or this morning after work.
Start w/ the shaft and the rear flange...one of them has to be out. I'd
suspect the saw has been dropped or otherwise mishandled at some time.
Such a large problem shouldn't be hard to discern the cause...whether
it's fixable (at reasonable cost) will depend on what is actually wrong.
Of course, it's also possible there's simply some obstruction on the
flange keeping the blade from seating flush...
Obtw, I had one Freud blade on which the arbor hole was slightly
undersize and would not snug up to the flange owing to binding on the
shaft where the threads ended...since you tried more than one blade,
it's probably not the blade hole, but if the shaft were slightly large
you could have a similar situation...
Shopsmith doesn't make a radial arm saw, and their typical arbor holes are
NOT the 5/8" standard for table saws, but rather 1" (I think).
If this is a Shopsmith tablesaw blade on the wrong saw, some strange
behavior could definitely result, as Duane surmises here.
OP: Please be careful. I hate to read accident reports.
Yes, sorry, it is a powersonic 60 tooth blade on the ts.
Ok, picked up a dial gauge yesterday checked out the shaft which by my
measurements seems to be fine but, let me see if i can explain this
right.....on the shaft starting from left to right looking at the saw there
is the nut that tightens the blade then the outer flange, the blade, then
the inner flange. The inner flange seats up against what looks like another
nut which is also used to put a second wrench on when tightening the blade.
It is either pressed onto the shaft or welded to it. Whatever it is it is
this inner non adjustable nut which is out. With the blade tight I can see
that the inner flange is not seating properly against this nut. Looking at
the face of the nut where the flange would press i can that 2/3 of the nut
and flange seat properly but the other 1/3 I can see a noticalbe gap so it
would see me that either this inner nut has shifted or something. Not sure
of how I can fix, I'm sure there is a way, was thinking about maybe a die
grinder mounted to the table of the saw and and turning the accessory side
of the shaft and taking down the high spot. The major problem I can see
with this, other than not having a die grinder, would be ensuring the ginder
and the saw are square to eachother and stay square thoughout the process.
Maybe there is another easier way. There is a hole going through this inner
nut and shaft that i can see all the way though, there is something in this
whole, thought maybe it was a adjustment screw or set screw of some kind but
there is nothing there.....maybe the set screw has come out and pushed it
out of alignment? Well hopefully I haven't messed up too badly trying to
explain this problem and maybe someone can help me out.
You either need to seat that flange correctly, or replace the shaft.
You don't do it by grinding on it. It may be possible to press it into
place properly but will probably take a machine shop press to do so. I
suspect more than ever the saw was dropped or had some other major
Spoke with my wifes uncle this morning and he said he hasn't used the saw in
3 years as the last time he used it he was cutting 6X6 garden ties and it
started to bind pretty bad when he flipped the tie to cut through other side
that it cracked the blade when it twisted so maybe/probably sent something
out of alignment. One of girls at work is married to machinist who does odd
jobs from his garage, will talk to him see if he can look at it, probably
better off to have someone access it who knows more about this kind of stuff
than me messing with it and making it worse or more dangerous.
At this point, fixing the "nut" is going to require that the
arbor be removed, and frankly, I think if you are going to do that, I
would just see if you can get a NEW replacement and install it after
the old one is removed.
On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 00:51:25 -0400, "Justa Beginner"
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