I bought a used Delta 14" band saw and used it with the small 1/8th
inch blade for a few cuts.
Tonight, I tried installing a wider (3/4"?) blade and found that it
would not stay on the top wheel for more than one revolution.
Needless to ssay, I've no manual - will search the net later and see
if I can find one - and thought to ask here if there was anything I
should be looking for or doing that a "newbie" might likely miss.
Previousl, I used a SEARS 12" tilting table band saw without incident.
My fears are that there is something seriously wrong with the saw (and
I got "took").
Anyone have (and corrected) this sort of thing and willing to share
Found adjustment online: After applying tension to the blade, rotate
slowly forward by hand and observe the blade's
movement. The blade (A) Fig. 31 should travel in the
center of the upper tire. If the blade creeps toward the
front edge, loosen the wing nut (B) Fig. 32 and turn the
thumb screw (C) clockwise. This action draws the blade
toward the center of the tire. If the blade creeps toward
the back edge, turn the thumb screw in the opposite
direction. Adjust the thumb screw (C) Fig. 32 only a
fraction of a turn each time.
Your tracking is probably off.
There should be two knobs on the right hand side of the saw...the one on the
top is the blade tensioning and the lower one is the tracking adjustment.
Spin the wheel slowly by hand while adjusting the tracking knob one way or
another. You should be able to center the blade fairly easily.
Worked like a charm. But saw starts slowly and appears to be straining
with the large blade. I set tension to 3/4" mark (+ and was thinking
that could have something to do with it.
What about those little blocks that straddle the blade above and below
the table? Should they rub against the blade or should there be some
(sheet of paper?) clearance?
I've seen ceramic versions for sale and maybe even roller bearings.
Anyone find changing out these little wear blocks improved
I use a Link Belt on my table saw and it was a noticeable improvement
there - anyonetry a link belt on their band saw - if so, was it worth
the thirty bucks?
Thank you all for the feedbak.
Get the manual. All is in there. It'll be a thrill to work through
DeWally's version of the old Delta site, but the manuals used to be there. I
can't get the place to work worth a damn now. Other sources available for
both theory and practice include the "Bible" of bandsaws, by Duginskie.
I use a 3/4 resaw on mine, but never go to the 3/4 tension mark, because
it's a thin one from Suffolk. I also use ceramic guides, because I do a lot
of preparation on turning blanks which are wet and thick. They're great,
and the ceramic thrust bearings work just fine as well, with the note of
caution to keep things clean, because sparks from the bearings will ignite
fine dust in the saw.
Typically they say to use a dollar bill for clearance.
Make sure the blocks don't rub against the teeth.
3/4" is the upper limit for a 14" saw. I've been successful on my
Jet. Others say it's too much.
Google this newsgroup for Iturra's address/phone number and ask for
their catalog. They specialize in add-ons for band saws.
THey don't AFAIK have a web site.
I am assuming that your saw does not have a "Quick Release" feature
(and even if it did, you'd still need to adjust the tracking) With
the SAW UNPLUGGED (please do this) look at the blade tensioning
sliding bracket. You will notice a wingnut and thumbscrew assmbly -
tilt lock -near the bottom, left side of the tension gauge (the
vertical slot where you can see the spring and the tensioning nut) I
am aslo assuming that your tires are in good shape and that the saw
does not suffer from worn out bearings or out of planer wheels.
Loosen the wing nut and reset your blade on the center on the wheels
then retighten the blade Make certain that both lower and upper blade
guides are backed away and not touching the blade.
(Now I have to mention another thing. Some bandsaw enthusiasts claim
that the Delta 14 inch saws should not be used with blades larger than
1/2 inch because you can not get the proper blade tension with the
existing spring and even replacement springs may not supply enough
tension for blades that large. I use an Iturra spring and I do use a
3/4 inch blade but I wanted to mention this)
Slowly turn the upper wheel with your left hand while moving the ttilt
lock in a direction to put your blade on center. If I recall
correctly (and I'm not in front of my saw) the blade moves toward the
side where the bottom of the wheel is pushed. If the wheel is too far
left the blade can come out of the guides too easy. If it is too far
to the rigth it will run against the guides continuously. This is a
trial and error process but as I stated above the tracking should be
doone without the guides making contact. Once the tracking is set you
need to adjust the the upper and lower guides properly (don't forget
to tighten the wingnut on the tilt lock)
A properly tracked blade will run true on the saw without the guides
ever coming into contact with it. The guides keep the blade where it
is only when cutting.
Hope this was helpful. Type back if you still have problems.
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