Blade Tracking Problem - Delta 14" Bandsaw

I bought a used Delta 14" band saw and used it with the small 1/8th inch blade for a few cuts.
Tonight, I tried installing a wider (3/4"?) blade and found that it would not stay on the top wheel for more than one revolution.
Needless to ssay, I've no manual - will search the net later and see if I can find one - and thought to ask here if there was anything I should be looking for or doing that a "newbie" might likely miss. Previousl, I used a SEARS 12" tilting table band saw without incident. My fears are that there is something seriously wrong with the saw (and I got "took").
Anyone have (and corrected) this sort of thing and willing to share some suggestions?
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Found adjustment online: After applying tension to the blade, rotate the wheels slowly forward by hand and observe the blade's movement. The blade (A) Fig. 31 should travel in the center of the upper tire. If the blade creeps toward the front edge, loosen the wing nut (B) Fig. 32 and turn the thumb screw (C) clockwise. This action draws the blade toward the center of the tire. If the blade creeps toward the back edge, turn the thumb screw in the opposite direction. Adjust the thumb screw (C) Fig. 32 only a fraction of a turn each time.
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Your tracking is probably off.
There should be two knobs on the right hand side of the saw...the one on the top is the blade tensioning and the lower one is the tracking adjustment. Spin the wheel slowly by hand while adjusting the tracking knob one way or another. You should be able to center the blade fairly easily.
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Worked like a charm. But saw starts slowly and appears to be straining with the large blade. I set tension to 3/4" mark (+ and was thinking that could have something to do with it.
What about those little blocks that straddle the blade above and below the table? Should they rub against the blade or should there be some (sheet of paper?) clearance?
I've seen ceramic versions for sale and maybe even roller bearings. Anyone find changing out these little wear blocks improved performance?
I use a Link Belt on my table saw and it was a noticeable improvement there - anyonetry a link belt on their band saw - if so, was it worth the thirty bucks?
Thank you all for the feedbak.
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Get the manual. All is in there. It'll be a thrill to work through DeWally's version of the old Delta site, but the manuals used to be there. I can't get the place to work worth a damn now. Other sources available for both theory and practice include the "Bible" of bandsaws, by Duginskie.
I use a 3/4 resaw on mine, but never go to the 3/4 tension mark, because it's a thin one from Suffolk. I also use ceramic guides, because I do a lot of preparation on turning blanks which are wet and thick. They're great, and the ceramic thrust bearings work just fine as well, with the note of caution to keep things clean, because sparks from the bearings will ignite fine dust in the saw.
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Typically they say to use a dollar bill for clearance. Make sure the blocks don't rub against the teeth.
3/4" is the upper limit for a 14" saw. I've been successful on my Jet. Others say it's too much.
Google this newsgroup for Iturra's address/phone number and ask for their catalog. They specialize in add-ons for band saws. THey don't AFAIK have a web site.
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Hoosierpopi wrote:

Might not be getting enough current. Mine was doing that until I ran a new 220v circuit for it (while I was running wire I figured I may as well run 220).

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On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 23:15:06 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

Try a 1/2" blade. I read several articles by various authors that advise a 1/2" for tasks like resawing. The rationale in most cases is that a 14" bandsaw won't tension a 3/4" blade properly.
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Hey Hoosier, I am assuming that your saw does not have a "Quick Release" feature (and even if it did, you'd still need to adjust the tracking) With the SAW UNPLUGGED (please do this) look at the blade tensioning sliding bracket. You will notice a wingnut and thumbscrew assmbly - tilt lock -near the bottom, left side of the tension gauge (the vertical slot where you can see the spring and the tensioning nut) I am aslo assuming that your tires are in good shape and that the saw does not suffer from worn out bearings or out of planer wheels.
Loosen the wing nut and reset your blade on the center on the wheels then retighten the blade Make certain that both lower and upper blade guides are backed away and not touching the blade.
(Now I have to mention another thing. Some bandsaw enthusiasts claim that the Delta 14 inch saws should not be used with blades larger than 1/2 inch because you can not get the proper blade tension with the existing spring and even replacement springs may not supply enough tension for blades that large. I use an Iturra spring and I do use a 3/4 inch blade but I wanted to mention this)
Slowly turn the upper wheel with your left hand while moving the ttilt lock in a direction to put your blade on center. If I recall correctly (and I'm not in front of my saw) the blade moves toward the side where the bottom of the wheel is pushed. If the wheel is too far left the blade can come out of the guides too easy. If it is too far to the rigth it will run against the guides continuously. This is a trial and error process but as I stated above the tracking should be doone without the guides making contact. Once the tracking is set you need to adjust the the upper and lower guides properly (don't forget to tighten the wingnut on the tilt lock)
A properly tracked blade will run true on the saw without the guides ever coming into contact with it. The guides keep the blade where it is only when cutting.
Hope this was helpful. Type back if you still have problems. Marc
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you must reset the guides back to get the blade tracking in the middle, my guess would be about 3/8". make sense? ross
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sorry i was thinking 1/2" blade, for 3/4" about 5/8" back Ross
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Both the top wheel and bottom (drive) wheel must be exactly parallel so the blade can run perpedicular to them. Something is mounted slightly off and should be easy to correct. Rollie

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