Blade burning hard maple

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So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Thanks,
Mike
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On 9/27/2016 10:56 PM, Michael wrote:

If you cannot afford a Ridge Carbide blade, send the DeWalt to them for sharpening. It will come back better than new.
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening-service/
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Just out of curiosity have you checked the alignment of your fence and blade? It seems to me that burning is caused by rubbing, and a dull blade will do it, but there's also the possibility of a slight misalignment of the fence contributing.
Puckdropper
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On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 4:31:55 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com wrote:

Are you ripping with that blade? You might want to use a blade designed for ripping (less teeth) if that's the case...
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On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 19:56:06 -0700 (PDT), Michael

Other posts have good advice - alignment, sharpening, etc Also - I have found that a good cleaning of the blade can help - residue from gummy wood - or possibly in your case - the burning has caused a build-up ? it only takes a miniscule amount of residue .. My one attempt to work with hard maple, many years ago, was my last ... I learned why it was called rock maple. John T.
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On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:

Because maple and especially hard maple is so dense it is hard to not get burn marks unless every thing is in order.
It is a must to have your equipment set up correctly so that there is minimal contact with the blade teeth.
Your blade must be decent quality, clean, and sharp.
You should also be using the right kind of blade for the type of cut you are making. If you are ripping with a cross cut blade that is your problem.
Your saw must have enough HP to power through the cut so that the wood is not being burned from a slow feed rate.
The maple must be good quality such that it does not begin to bow during the cut, on rips, and pinch back against the blade or push the work away from the fence and against the blade.
If the burning is simply scorch marks those can normally very easily be removed by running a sharp scraper along the edge of a rip cut.
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On 9/27/2016 9:56 PM, Michael wrote:

Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
Together, all those factors might not even totally eliminate some burning, but hopefully they'll mitigate the burn marks so they're not so deep that they can't be scraped/sanded off.
I use a good deal of hard maple for face frames, and, since the marks are usually on edge grain, I find a Hyde scraper to be a handy tool to have around when working with it.
There are quite a few Hyde scraper options, but this one, and replacement blades, can usually be found a Borgs, and it won't break your budget:
http://hydestore.com/hyde-10530-1-1-2-lifetime-scraper-4-edge-blade.html
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Burnt sugar is black. ;-)
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wrote:

I suspect that is not far from wrong. Whire oak is only slightly softer than sugar maple and hickory is consideraby harder (about 40%) and I've never had much problem with either burning., gotta be someting IN the maple that causes it.
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On 9/28/2016 3:37 PM, dadiOH wrote:

Possibly because it is white. Any discoloration will show up. On woods with color any slight discoloration may be masked.
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On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.
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I just got a new 20% coupon in the mail, so if you're getting flyers you'll probably have one soon. Often you can pick the flyer up in the store as well.
Puckdropper
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On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com wrote:

Or just get them off the web...
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
I'll often bring up the flyer on my smartphone and then have the clerk scan the image. I've never been denied and often used the same coupon image multiple times. Different days, but the same image.
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On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com wrote:

Don't you think 50T is a lot for a ripping blade? I was thinking more like 24T to 30T...
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On 9/28/2016 3:48 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

At one time I worked for a guitar mfg. They ripped many board feet of hard maple with no problems. It was a heavy, three phase Delta with a 10" blade. The blade was a ~ 24 tooth carbide. I don't recall it ever getting dull. I remember walking into the saw area and some fool had put a plain steel, crosscut, blade on the saw. He started to rip a 2" thick piece of maple and got about 4" into the cut when the blade started to smoke and turn black. That was as far as he got. I suppose that was when they went to carbide. :-) I'll bet the OP just needs a sharp rip blade.
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On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:31:11 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:

recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad music inside the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral 50tooth C3 blade. That's t he first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'm hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a r eport. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
Mike
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On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 6:37:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

he recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

the first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I' m hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a report. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.

So, Dr. Deb, where do I sent your consulting fee? That Harbor Freight blade cuts through hard maple like buttah. I'm not sure how long it will, but it 's working great now.
Leon, you are sooo right that the jointer can throw off square. I appreciat e the help.
Mike
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On 9/30/2016 7:26 PM, Michael wrote:

Wow Mike, I appreciate your recognizing that fact so quickly, it commonly falls on deaf ears. The jointer is mostly for conditioning before shaping, not shaping after cutting. ;~) Good on you!
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On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

ecommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

Great advice from everyone. Much appreciated! The burns are scorches and ea sily removed when I ran them across the jointer. Other scorches are on the tenon, so they won't be seen. Yes, there is residue on the blade so I'll de finitely try cleaning that first. Also, I'm going to buy a good quality rip and cross cut blade today but I understand now that rock maple is just a w ood that burns sometimes. I did check my fence because I thought the same t hing -- maybe it was getting slightly jammed. But last night I was cutting tenons with a tenoning jig, and the wood was burning, even when I was made very shallow cuts. I love the beauty, smell, and feel of this wood, but dam n it is hard.
Mike
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On 9/28/2016 9:48 AM, Michael wrote:

So cleaning up a cut with a jointer works but if you are cutting your wood to the final width on the TS the jointer throws the accuracy of the cut down the drain. Technically you should never use a jointer to clean up a cut except for mill marks. And seriously, with a decent scraper it only takes a pass or two to remove shallow scorch marks.
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