Blade burning hard maple

So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

Thanks,

Mike

Reply to
Michael
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If you cannot afford a Ridge Carbide blade, send the DeWalt to them for sharpening. It will come back better than new.

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Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Michael wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Just out of curiosity have you checked the alignment of your fence and blade? It seems to me that burning is caused by rubbing, and a dull blade will do it, but there's also the possibility of a slight misalignment of the fence contributing.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Are you ripping with that blade? You might want to use a blade designed for ripping (less teeth) if that's the case...

Reply to
bnwelch

Other posts have good advice - alignment, sharpening, etc Also - I have found that a good cleaning of the blade can help - residue from gummy wood - or possibly in your case - the burning has caused a build-up ? it only takes a miniscule amount of residue .. My one attempt to work with hard maple, many years ago, was my last ... I learned why it was called rock maple. John T.

Reply to
hubops

Because maple and especially hard maple is so dense it is hard to not get burn marks unless every thing is in order.

It is a must to have your equipment set up correctly so that there is minimal contact with the blade teeth.

Your blade must be decent quality, clean, and sharp.

You should also be using the right kind of blade for the type of cut you are making. If you are ripping with a cross cut blade that is your problem.

Your saw must have enough HP to power through the cut so that the wood is not being burned from a slow feed rate.

The maple must be good quality such that it does not begin to bow during the cut, on rips, and pinch back against the blade or push the work away from the fence and against the blade.

If the burning is simply scorch marks those can normally very easily be removed by running a sharp scraper along the edge of a rip cut.

Reply to
Leon

Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.

Together, all those factors might not even totally eliminate some burning, but hopefully they'll mitigate the burn marks so they're not so deep that they can't be scraped/sanded off.

I use a good deal of hard maple for face frames, and, since the marks are usually on edge grain, I find a Hyde scraper to be a handy tool to have around when working with it.

There are quite a few Hyde scraper options, but this one, and replacement blades, can usually be found a Borgs, and it won't break your budget:

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Reply to
Swingman

Mike, IF you have $20 laying around try the 50tooth C3 blade from Harbor Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.

Reply to
Dr. Deb

crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the r ecommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

Great advice from everyone. Much appreciated! The burns are scorches and ea sily removed when I ran them across the jointer. Other scorches are on the tenon, so they won't be seen. Yes, there is residue on the blade so I'll de finitely try cleaning that first. Also, I'm going to buy a good quality rip and cross cut blade today but I understand now that rock maple is just a w ood that burns sometimes. I did check my fence because I thought the same t hing -- maybe it was getting slightly jammed. But last night I was cutting tenons with a tenoning jig, and the wood was burning, even when I was made very shallow cuts. I love the beauty, smell, and feel of this wood, but dam n it is hard.

Mike

Reply to
Michael

So cleaning up a cut with a jointer works but if you are cutting your wood to the final width on the TS the jointer throws the accuracy of the cut down the drain. Technically you should never use a jointer to clean up a cut except for mill marks. And seriously, with a decent scraper it only takes a pass or two to remove shallow scorch marks.

Reply to
Leon

Are you sure your miter slot is parallel to the blade? Your fence adjusted perfectly perpendicular to the table edge?

Reply to
krw

Burnt sugar is black. ;-)

Reply to
krw

"Dr. Deb" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

I just got a new 20% coupon in the mail, so if you're getting flyers you'll probably have one soon. Often you can pick the flyer up in the store as well.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Or just get them off the web...

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I'll often bring up the flyer on my smartphone and then have the clerk scan the image. I've never been denied and often used the same coupon image multiple times. Different days, but the same image.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I suspect that is not far from wrong. Whire oak is only slightly softer than sugar maple and hickory is consideraby harder (about 40%) and I've never had much problem with either burning., gotta be someting IN the maple that causes it.

Reply to
dadiOH

Don't you think 50T is a lot for a ripping blade? I was thinking more like 24T to 30T...

Reply to
bnwelch

what you don't say is what you are doing.

Are you crosscutting? Are you ripping?

Generally if you feed to slow you will burn maple or any wood. Too fast, and the wood will let you know. Is your alignment ok, or did something cause it to be out of alignment?

For less than high end, try the freud blades.. pretty good. For high end, FW II.. nothing better IMHO.

Reply to
woodchucker

ne crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.

Freight. I know, I know, but just try it.

Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad music inside the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral 50tooth C3 blade. That's t he first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'm hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a r eport. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.

Mike

Reply to
Michael

One more thing. The blade should be high enough to clear the gullets. Also the higher it is the faster you can cut, since the teet are cutting down, rather than at at 30 or 45 degrees to the sidecut for instance.

Reply to
woodchucker

Michael wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.

Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm & Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.

Reply to
Doug Miller

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