So my table saw is burning hard maple when I cut it. I have a Dewalt fine crosscut blade on it now. I assume I need a new/better blade. What's the recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Just out of curiosity have you checked the alignment of your fence and
blade? It seems to me that burning is caused by rubbing, and a dull blade
will do it, but there's also the possibility of a slight misalignment of
the fence contributing.
Other posts have good advice - alignment, sharpening, etc
Also - I have found that a good cleaning of the blade can help -
residue from gummy wood - or possibly in your case -
the burning has caused a build-up ? it only takes a miniscule amount
of residue ..
My one attempt to work with hard maple, many years ago,
was my last ... I learned why it was called rock maple.
Because maple and especially hard maple is so dense it is hard to not
get burn marks unless every thing is in order.
It is a must to have your equipment set up correctly so that there is
minimal contact with the blade teeth.
Your blade must be decent quality, clean, and sharp.
You should also be using the right kind of blade for the type of cut you
are making. If you are ripping with a cross cut blade that is your problem.
Your saw must have enough HP to power through the cut so that the wood
is not being burned from a slow feed rate.
The maple must be good quality such that it does not begin to bow during
the cut, on rips, and pinch back against the blade or push the work away
from the fence and against the blade.
If the burning is simply scorch marks those can normally very easily be
removed by running a sharp scraper along the edge of a rip cut.
Not uncommon for hard maple to burn, even though your setup and
alignment is good, and a sharp blade, with proper tooth is mounted.
Together, all those factors might not even totally eliminate some
burning, but hopefully they'll mitigate the burn marks so they're not so
deep that they can't be scraped/sanded off.
I use a good deal of hard maple for face frames, and, since the marks
are usually on edge grain, I find a Hyde scraper to be a handy tool to
have around when working with it.
There are quite a few Hyde scraper options, but this one, and
replacement blades, can usually be found a Borgs, and it won't break
I suspect that is not far from wrong. Whire oak is only slightly softer
than sugar maple and hickory is consideraby harder (about 40%) and I've
never had much problem with either burning., gotta be someting IN the maple
that causes it.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 3:26:26 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Or just get them off the web...
I'll often bring up the flyer on my smartphone and then have the
clerk scan the image. I've never been denied and often used the
same coupon image multiple times. Different days, but the same
On 9/28/2016 3:48 PM, email@example.com wrote:
At one time I worked for a guitar mfg. They ripped many board feet of hard maple
with no problems. It was a heavy, three phase Delta with a 10" blade. The blade
was a ~ 24 tooth carbide. I don't recall it ever getting dull. I remember
walking into the saw area and some fool had put a plain steel, crosscut, blade
on the saw. He started to rip a 2" thick piece of maple and got about 4" into
the cut when the blade started to smoke and turn black. That was as far as he
got. I suppose that was when they went to carbide. :-)
I'll bet the OP just needs a sharp rip blade.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:31:11 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Ok, Dr. Deb. I successfully negotiated 5pm traffic and the bad music inside
the Harbor Freight store and bought the Admiral 50tooth C3 blade. That's t
he first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'm
hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a r
eport. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 6:37:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
he recommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
the first time I've been in HF.Things feel a little cheap in there, but I'
m hopeful about this blade. I'll put it on later and try it out and issue a
report. Also, thanks for the coupon! Sadly, it did not work for the blade.
So, Dr. Deb, where do I sent your consulting fee? That Harbor Freight blade
cuts through hard maple like buttah. I'm not sure how long it will, but it
's working great now.
Leon, you are sooo right that the jointer can throw off square. I appreciat
e the help.
On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
ecommendation? I can't afford top, top of the line.
Great advice from everyone. Much appreciated! The burns are scorches and ea
sily removed when I ran them across the jointer. Other scorches are on the
tenon, so they won't be seen. Yes, there is residue on the blade so I'll de
finitely try cleaning that first. Also, I'm going to buy a good quality rip
and cross cut blade today but I understand now that rock maple is just a w
ood that burns sometimes. I did check my fence because I thought the same t
hing -- maybe it was getting slightly jammed. But last night I was cutting
tenons with a tenoning jig, and the wood was burning, even when I was made
very shallow cuts. I love the beauty, smell, and feel of this wood, but dam
n it is hard.
So cleaning up a cut with a jointer works but if you are cutting your
wood to the final width on the TS the jointer throws the accuracy of the
cut down the drain. Technically you should never use a jointer to clean
up a cut except for mill marks. And seriously, with a decent scraper it
only takes a pass or two to remove shallow scorch marks.
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