B4 you jump to conclusions please read the whole thing. This is not snipe.
I just jointed a board.
Then planed it.
The board is flat on one side, but wavey on the other.
This is not a method issue, something is going on that I've never seen
Anyone have any idea why my planer gave me a wavey side but I had a flat
reference. The waveyness occurs through out, not snipe on the ends.
Yes I planed it past the initial un-even ness. Then the board gets
flipped end for end, once I have a clean cut all the way on the
I have run plenty of wood through both the jointer and planer, And I
have not seen this b4. If it were wavey on both sides I would
understand, but this is flat and wavey...
Very strange. Some additional info might help:
Is this a lunch-box planer (a misnomer given the size and heft of the
current crop of benchtop planers)?
do the waves correspond to changes in grain direction?
Have you tried running a tubafor or other piece of scrap through the
same joint/plane operations to see if you get the same results
(pointing to the planer) or not (pointing to the wood)?
wonder if the cutterhead is moving or maybe the rollers are not
providing enough down pressure on the wood to keep it flat going
through the planer.
Will be interested in watching this thread to hear what you find out.
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Definetly not. No 2x4 in this planer.. the knots destroy the blades.
Not yet, will be after I put some grooves and tenons on this set..
I'm hoping it is not the wood, the whole idea of using one of these is
to get the sides parallel. While I realize that wood has hard and soft
areas, I would not expect this type of planer to dip deeper.. my cuts
are probably 1/64-1/32 max of an inch more like 1/64... I only spin the
handle 1/4 turn per cut to get nice clean cuts.
I wonder if that's the problem. Not sure how to test the lock as I would
probably not be able to move it myself, but the wood certainly would.
On Thursday, March 27, 2014 10:58:08 AM UTC-5, woodchucker wrote:
I'm having trouble opening this site, but it may give you an answer, if you can access it. It dates back to 2006, so I wonder if that has anything to do with my access problem.
I initially Googled "Power Planer Troubleshooting" and the above alternate lead, for "Troubleshooting Planer Chatter Marks", came up.
On Thursday, March 27, 2014 8:07:57 AM UTC-7, woodchucker wrote:
Maybe check the feed rollers. If they have something stuck on them maybe th
ey are stressing the lock position up a bit as they rotate past the junk wh
ere it makes the rollers larger diameter. This is a real shot in the dark.
Actually, as I think of it maybe even chips getting in there from a bad chi
p brealer setup or weak dust collection
I just upped my dust collection, before I was using a vac, a friend just
gave me a small jet 1hp, and it is collecting pretty good, but I did not
check the rollers, as I used to. I used to blow the machine when the
chips loaded up on the platten. The DC is sucking up 99%.. so that is a
change... I was more careful about the chips in the past, and maybe
something is stuck. Will check after lunch...
Good idea, I guess I took that for granted.
Ok, so there was a buildup on the front roller. I cleaned it, expecting
the problem to go away, but it did not. Still a wave.
So now I know it wasn't the piece. This was a different piece of maple.
Shorter about 24 inches and it's like a hilly road. Slight undulation up
I guess I have to open it up and check the blades, but I don't think
that would be the issue, as this is slow variation, but maybe I'll see
something else once I take it apart. Too bad I can't get to the rollers
once I take the covers off. I would love to be able to take the whole
top of it off.
So yea, the roller was loaded up. I kind of expected that with the vac,
but not the DC since it appears to be geting all the chips. Not sure why
that would create a wave. I'll run through some more maple in a few
minutes.. finishing up this frame.
I have has a similar situation occur when I left masking tape on the
"bottom' of the board. I would insure that the bottom rollers, if it
has bottom rollers, do no have something stuck to them causing the board
to push up and down.
Second, I have also had this happen and especially on a smaller planer.
If the board is long and bounces up and down, like a diving board, as
it is being fed it can cause the uneven thickness situation also.
This sounds to me like the board is "camming over" as it passes through due
to the infeed/outfeed tables not being level with the bed. The infeed and/or
outfeed is lifting the board off the bed as the board passes through so that
the ends are full thickness but there are thinner areas along it's length.
The thinner areas that will vary with the length of the board.
I suggest checking the infeed/outfeed tables position relative to the bed as
the place to start in the quest to solve this problem. The problem could be
as simple as crud built up on the adjustment surfaces for the feed table
height on the Dewalt 733.
Just checked, no crud, nothing. B4 I take it apart, I'll double check
the tables, I always have some positive pressure to avoid snipe...
And it has not been an issue in the past, but certainly maybe I had too
much pressure (as I dialed out all snipe) , and the roller springs are
giving up the ghost..
That might explain the up and down as I hit different areas of the board
How would I check the feed rollers for spring tension...? any idea?
While there are certainly tools to measure spring tension I'd be inclined to
lower the infeed/outfeed tables closer to co-planer with the bed and see
what happens. Snipe may increase... or not...
I had an auxiliary bed for my portable Dewalt planer. It was a 4 foot long
piece of melamine that I got a Home Depot in the form of a 12" x 48" shelf.
I put a cleat on the bottom so it didn't get sucked through with the wood.
This eliminated snipe and cam over problems for me. When I got my Jet floor
model planer/molder I had no more problems like this and only use an
auxiliary bed for guiding molding stock.
I have already tried the melamine routine with coplanar, it made snipe
unbearable. I wanted to use it for thin stock, but thought why not just
use it for everything since it's a slick material.. the 1st inch or 2 on
both ends was unusable for 3/4.
I'll lower it, give it a try, I imagine I will be back with snipe...
It's been this way since I got it. I had snipe from day one, until I
dialed up the tables.
but I'll take a look b4 I open her up. maybe you have the answer.
Ok, went back to co-planar plus a little tension, since the ends of the
table easily deflect.
Now I am back to snipe, but the wavyness does appear to be gone.
Now about to see if I can sneak up on no snipe again.
This also wound up being a good tear down, as it was getting tough to
raise and lower the carriage, especially raise it. So I used the teflon
dry lube and nice...
The blades were not the problem, they are where they should be and look
Not sure why the wavvyness has not shown before, unless this maple is
just not deflecting under the carriage to the same degree as other woods.
Dewalt made an error in using coarse threads on the table adjustment.
The screws are at the hinge point and 1/4 turn goes from lower than the
platen, to ridiculous height above the platen. Add to that when you set
the lock nut, it wants to move the setting, any slight movement
(backlash in the wrench to screw) is a large adjustment.
Had it been fine threads I probably could zero in much easier. I still
have some snipe on entry, so I am working the infeed table trying to
sneak up on no snipe. but the waves are gone.
I would not have thought my adjustments were out since they have been
working for quite some time w/o issue. I had added more pressure
because it removed the snipe on both ends.
When I hit the lottery, maybe I can get a nice big hunk of iron with a
20" table and helical head.
Thanks everyone. I'll post info tomorrow when I finally remove the
snipe. (if I remove the snipe).
You are welcome...
I was pretty sure that was the problem as I've had some similar experiences
over the years... not all with planers. One of the most memorable was when I
worked in the Gunsmith Shop at Colonial Williamsburg. We were reaming out a
hand-forged barrel using a hand turned reaming machine. It seemed like there
was a hard spot in the barrel as with each pass with a new and larger bit we
had a problem in the same spot.
While watching what was happening I realized that the real problem was the
reaming bar was camming over the edge of the hole at the end of the barrel
when it reached a certain point. The bottom line was the barrel center was
not in line with the reaming machine center. That may seem like an obvious
mistake until you see what a hand forged gun barrel looks like at each step
of the way... center is an estimation for quite a while! ;~)
Glad it worked out!
Do a real close inspection to make sure the blades and chip breakers are
securely fastened. They can occasionally work loose. I was using someone
else's jointer, and heard a problem, and found out one of the breakers was
so loose that sawdust had packed in between the bar and the blade, and half
of the blade was being held in by the sawdust. I about sh*t my pants when I
saw that. After I fixed that for him, I stopped to inspect all of the other
machines to see that they were safe to use.
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