Bigger Band Saw

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writes:

Have you done any comparison with a 1/2" blade? People more experience that I am has said the 1/2" actually gives a better cut with less resistance on a 1`4" saw. That is the only one I've tried so far so I don't know if it makes a difference.
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writes:

Wasn't that the gist of the Michael Fortune article on bandsawing in a recent FWW? I saw him give a presentation on inlay technique at the recent wood show, and he seemed pretty lucid, in spite of having recently authored an article which went against all conventional wisdom on veneer cutting.
Every once in a while, someone comes along with a new thought, and I have to start thinking all over again. ;-)
Patriarch
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writes:

That thin Suffolk 3/4 they market for resawing on a 14" has done a great job for me. I was reluctant, having used 1/2 for years, but the guy said I could send it back for two if it wasn't all he said. Seems to be, though, for Andy's benefit, it measures a touch under 3/4....
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For Andy's benefit, Suffolk could arrange distribution in the UK. I've never seen one of these things for sale.
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wrote:

http://www.timberwolf1.com/silicon_steel_slection.asp
3/4 3 AS-S Then there's VAT....
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Is Suffolk the same outfit that makes Timber Wolf? I believe TW's blades are called silicone steel blades and are supposed to be the best on the market. I think they cost 2 to 3 times more than the other blades on the market,
wrote:

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If you buy direct from Suffolk, they cost less than most.
I think Lee Valley also has the under another name but I'm not 100% sure.
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Well, yes, than no on both counts. Silicon steel blades by Gschwind group -Suffolk/Timberwolf - are about half again the price of name brands like Olson. Pretty good throughout the line, too.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I have been using a Timber Wolf blade purchased at Woodcraft. Lookins around the suffolk site there seems to be a couple maintance things I haven't been taking care of, lubricating the blades, and maybe I can play with the tension some more.
In some ways I am looking for the next tool purchase, and for some reason bandsaws are one of my favorite tools. For whatever reason though my Grizzly G0555 doesn't fit the bill as being a favorite tool to use.
I will try some of these ideas, and report if there is any improvement.
Andrew
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Yes. There some sort of legfal issue with using the trademark. I think only one dealer is allows to use the "Timberwolf" name. I learned this from the Iturra catalog, which used ANOTHER name for the blades. The one I bought from Woodcraft was called "PS WOOD - by the makers of Timberwolf."
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No. I'm not too experienced with it. I've practiced resawing, and done some test cuts, so it seems to work. I'm not sure what I should see if it doesn't work.
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My Rockwell 14" uses Suffolk Machinery 3/4" as that's what they recommended. They "allow" PS to sell their low tension blades.
On 8 May 2005 02:24:38 GMT, Bruce Barnett

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Tattooed and Dusty wrote:

because my old 12" didn't have the jam for resawing. This baby will allow me to dial in speeds from around 350 fpm to 5000. I would recommend keeping your eyes open for some of the older used equiment. The comparable saw to what I bought runs about $7,000 CDN up here, I paid 1,500 with extra blades and blade welder. I had to spend about 300 on some Carter guides but I've been resawing Jatoba, Wenge, Maple and various other hardwoods up to about 10" and haven't had a burp. Needless to say I'm pretty happy.
JC
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Having someone else do it is always a good idea, but I rather like being able to be as self sufficient as possible. I am supporting myself with this work, so I have the capital to invest in new hardware at least occasionally. I have also found that while the G0555 works well enough for most tasks, and fails only occasionally to get the job done. I feel a more stable heavy duty unit would be better all around.
Andrew
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If used has an appeal to you, there are always a bunch of experts hanging out over at owwm.com. One of them, a member of our local club, sold me a really sweet old longbed 8" made-in-Milwaukee Delta jointer last week. Completely rebuilt, at about half of what the new X5 is going for.
He has a vintage Delta 20" bs in his shop, awaiting its turn. If only I had space...
Patriarch
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Sometimes used has appeal, though I must admit buying used usually means a lag in the work time before running. As I am starting going on making custom furniture that usually isn't ideal. I have also regretted the last two used equipment purchases, though I learned from both of them.
I feel somewhat lost as to the comments about 1/2" thick blades. In my initial post I mention I have been disapointed with the performance using a 1/2" blade. When purchased I was under the assumption that a 3/4" blade wouldn't work all that well for resawing with a 14" bandsaw, and to use a 1/2'. Am I missing something here?
Thanks again for the comments that I can understand
Andrew
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I am so far from being a bandsaw expert, but the Michael Fortune article in FWW stirred the pot significantly, in that he was consistently able to get excellent results, without spending serious Euros on a monster Italian made saw. I recommend a trip to the library, if possible.
Patriarch
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OUCH! Hey buddy I think you're looking for the alt.rec.abughraib newsgroup.
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On 7 May 2005 13:57:32 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
Have you tuned the saw? Are you pushing too hard?     if you have a LOT of work, then spend the money     even with inadequate tnesion, it's possible to get a good cut Try a narrower blade with large teeth. IIRC M Dugi8nske mentions that wider blades can be _harder_ to keep straight     Have you bought the best blades? Are they sharp? Is the wander always in one direction for a given blade?     If so you need to look at setting up your fence to allow for this. Are you just looking for an excuse to buy another piece of iron? <G>

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I went with the Minimax 24" and it came with a 1" carbide tipped blade. (I kept the Jet for smaller detail work) So far I have resawn a cherry panel 36" long and 14" wide (3/4" thick) as well as resawing buttonwood, lacewood and several other species from log to lumber. Some of the pieces look to need only minimal sanding right off the saw! Tom
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