Have you done any comparison with a 1/2" blade? People more experience that
I am has said the 1/2" actually gives a better cut with less resistance on a
1`4" saw. That is the only one I've tried so far so I don't know if it
makes a difference.
Wasn't that the gist of the Michael Fortune article on bandsawing in a
recent FWW? I saw him give a presentation on inlay technique at the recent
wood show, and he seemed pretty lucid, in spite of having recently authored
an article which went against all conventional wisdom on veneer cutting.
Every once in a while, someone comes along with a new thought, and I have
to start thinking all over again. ;-)
That thin Suffolk 3/4 they market for resawing on a 14" has done a great job
for me. I was reluctant, having used 1/2 for years, but the guy said I
could send it back for two if it wasn't all he said. Seems to be, though,
for Andy's benefit, it measures a touch under 3/4....
Is Suffolk the same outfit that makes Timber Wolf? I believe TW's blades
are called silicone steel blades and are supposed to be the best on the
market. I think they cost 2 to 3 times more than the other blades on the
Thanks for the advice guys. I have been using a Timber Wolf blade
purchased at Woodcraft. Lookins around the suffolk site there seems to
be a couple maintance things I haven't been taking care of, lubricating
the blades, and maybe I can play with the tension some more.
In some ways I am looking for the next tool purchase, and for some
reason bandsaws are one of my favorite tools. For whatever reason
though my Grizzly G0555 doesn't fit the bill as being a favorite tool
I will try some of these ideas, and report if there is any improvement.
Yes. There some sort of legfal issue with using the trademark. I
think only one dealer is allows to use the "Timberwolf" name. I
learned this from the Iturra catalog, which used ANOTHER name for the
blades. The one I bought from Woodcraft was called "PS WOOD - by the
makers of Timberwolf."
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
because my old 12" didn't have the jam for resawing. This baby will
allow me to dial in speeds from around 350 fpm to 5000. I would
recommend keeping your eyes open for some of the older used equiment.
The comparable saw to what I bought runs about $7,000 CDN up here, I
paid 1,500 with extra blades and blade welder. I had to spend about 300
on some Carter guides but I've been resawing Jatoba, Wenge, Maple and
various other hardwoods up to about 10" and haven't had a burp. Needless
to say I'm pretty happy.
Having someone else do it is always a good idea, but I rather like
being able to be as self sufficient as possible. I am supporting myself
with this work, so I have the capital to invest in new hardware at
I have also found that while the G0555 works well enough for most
tasks, and fails only occasionally to get the job done. I feel a more
stable heavy duty unit would be better all around.
If used has an appeal to you, there are always a bunch of experts hanging
out over at owwm.com. One of them, a member of our local club, sold me a
really sweet old longbed 8" made-in-Milwaukee Delta jointer last week.
Completely rebuilt, at about half of what the new X5 is going for.
He has a vintage Delta 20" bs in his shop, awaiting its turn. If only I
Sometimes used has appeal, though I must admit buying used usually
means a lag in the work time before running. As I am starting going on
making custom furniture that usually isn't ideal. I have also regretted
the last two used equipment purchases, though I learned from both of
I feel somewhat lost as to the comments about 1/2" thick blades. In my
initial post I mention I have been disapointed with the performance
using a 1/2" blade. When purchased I was under the assumption that a
3/4" blade wouldn't work all that well for resawing with a 14" bandsaw,
and to use a 1/2'. Am I missing something here?
Thanks again for the comments that I can understand
I am so far from being a bandsaw expert, but the Michael Fortune article in
FWW stirred the pot significantly, in that he was consistently able to get
excellent results, without spending serious Euros on a monster Italian made
saw. I recommend a trip to the library, if possible.
On 7 May 2005 13:57:32 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
Have you tuned the saw?
Are you pushing too hard?
if you have a LOT of work, then spend the money
even with inadequate tnesion, it's possible to get a good cut
Try a narrower blade with large teeth. IIRC M Dugi8nske mentions that
wider blades can be _harder_ to keep straight
Have you bought the best blades?
Are they sharp?
Is the wander always in one direction for a given blade?
If so you need to look at setting up your fence to allow for
Are you just looking for an excuse to buy another piece of iron? <G>
I went with the Minimax 24" and it came with a 1" carbide tipped blade. (I
kept the Jet for smaller detail work)
So far I have resawn a cherry panel 36" long and 14" wide (3/4" thick) as
well as resawing buttonwood, lacewood and several other species from log to
Some of the pieces look to need only minimal sanding right off the saw!
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