how do the cement board products hold up in the north? I recently did the
siding on a house for a guy that had moved up here from Texas, and he
insisted on a cement product. Nobody I spoke with up here had ever used it,
so I did a bunch of research, got the appropriate waivers, and installed it.
So far I haven't had any call backs, but then it has only been a year......
As long as they never own a ball - of any kind - that can be hit onto
the board with sufficient force...
Damn, Swing, are you only building in Adult Communities these days?
I don't know how many cementitious boards (glommed up with asbestos in
those days) that I have replaced because they have broken at the edges
Are the new products that much better?
(ain't a challenge - just a question)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
Hey Tom ... IMO, Yes. I've not had a single installed Hardiplank siding
break on at least a half a dozen houses where it's been installed thus far,
It simply has not been a problem, and even more remarkable since most of
those were built using vent skin construction (you guys may call it "rain
skin" up there) where you would expect it to be a problem, versus applying
siding directly to the sheathing. (I don't allow the cornice crews to blind
nail in this application, use double nailed, 4" wide, furring strips for
added support with the extra surface area, and have the painters putty fill
the nail holes).
I also use the Hardi products almost exclusively in interior areas where we
used to use greenboard ... behind tubs/showers, back splashes, and anywhere
tile or stone is laid.
Peace of mind for the builder, and a long lasting, virtually maintenance and
mold and mildew free exterior/interior for the owner.
I was drug kicking and screaming to the technology, but have been become an
evangelical convert. ;)
I may have to look into some of this stuff for my own homestead.
Ain't you s'posed to be fondling the Fretless tonight?
How come you got Friday off?
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
I was a bit concerned about the broken edge problem too but found that the
Hardiplank siding I installed on my house is very tough stuff. The trim
boards can be a problem if not properly (read "evenly") backed up between
nails--I broke two corner boards through inattention. I also found that you
should not install 10' lengths of perf soffits by yourself (even with
cleats) as it doesn't have the structural integrity to be unsupported--broke
two of those too. I must say that my biggest single problem was doing the
job by myself. Having a helper would have made the whole job much easier!
On 24 May 2006 17:00:42 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I own a summer place in southern Ontario, Canada that's been in the
family for just over a hundred years. The climate is very mixed, going
from very dry to very wet conditions (we're right on the lake shore,
so it often gets pretty humid). One of the cottages, a built out barn,
had hand split cedar shingles applied somewhere around 80-85 years
ago, untreated then or since. The shingles are still in good shape
(weathered to a dark silver/brown) everywhere except close to the
ground where they are subject to water splashing from runoff. There
they show deterioration; I think more from dry rot (many wet/dry
cycles) than anything else. Based on this experience, cedar is
certainly capable of holding up well untreated for a long time.
Last week I finally trashed a wheelbarrow that I've had for about 25
years. It had been kept outdoors at my home in Houston (hot/humid),
tipped up against the back of the garage. The handles, which I believe
were made of Ipe, were rotted at the front end of the barrow from
ground contact. The steel of the body an the hardware rusting is what
prompted the replacement of the wheelbarrow though. The condition of
the handles amazed me. They are well crackled, splintery, and gray on
the outside. I figured they were totally deteriorated and took a saw
to them to make it easier for the trash guys to take the barrow away.
After cutting them off, I started looking at them and found that only
the outer 1/16" or so was deteriorated (after 25 years of
weathering!). The interior is a beautiful dark red, rock hard wood
that has now become small turning stock for future projects. I had
heard Ipe was great for outdoor use; this has proven it to me without
I think either of these woods would serve you well, and I'd bet the
cedar would be a good bit less expensive.
I used untreated cedar shingles 30 years ago on a house that turned
brown to gray on different sided of house depending on sun, shade, wind
drying the rain water.I left that house10 years ago. My new house house
i built 20 years ago I dipped the shingles in bleaching oil and never
did anything since. I have more uniform color change now. My trim I
used cheap pine and claded with white metal. I have a maintance free
exterior. People that said cedar will turn black are proably mistaking
cedar clapbords which will look horrible. Find some books on CAPE COD a
large island off Massachusetts and you will see the typical CAPE with
weathered cedar shingles.
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