Best Wide Crown Manual Staple Gun?

I need to staple thin aluminum flashing to pine. I have an old Arrow T50M gun, which doesn't quite have enough oomph to sink a 3/8" long staple flush. I could try using 1/4" or 5/16" long staples, but I'd prefer to go with a wider crown, and I know that staple gun technolgy has improved a good bit since the T50 was designed. This will be used outdoors, and electric or pneumatic is overkill (& over-$$).
The T50's use a 3/8" width (presumably OD). My research shows that there are two flavors of "wide crown". Ace Hardware sells staples as either "Wide Crown I" or "Wide Crown II". The Wide crown I's fit various flavors of Ace, B&D, and Craftsman. I think that these are 14mm wide, which is ~ 0.55". The Wide Crown II's fit some Master Mechanic, Stanley and Swinglines. I think these are 1/2" wide. I also found an indication that Bostitch uses 7/16" wide staples, which I consider too narrow.
From the Googling I did, there aren't a lot of _manual_ wide-crown guns around anymore. Swingline appears to be out of the manual gun business entirely. Stanley & Bostich appear to have merged, and don't seem to have much for sale that still uses the wide crown staples. Craftsman's stuff is mostly re-labled B&D, and the B&D Powershot's have gotten a lot of bad reviews (although a lot of them are from idiots who can't deal with the "backward" design).
I can wade through all of the specific model numbers that Ace claims use the wide crown staples to see if any are still sold. In the meantime, I figured I see if anyone has any recommendations or warnings.
Thanks!
Doug White
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On Sunday, April 3, 2011 11:52:35 AM UTC-7, Doug White wrote:

Don't do that. Flashing is usually for wet areas, and dissimilar metals (like steel staples against aluminum) are not going to last. Rather, pierce the flashing with a punch and use aluminum nails. Galvanized (zinc surface) is maybe OK if you keep it dry, like with a dab of tar/caulk/sealant.
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Agree with Doug (below). I stapled my soffits on with a narrow crown staple nailer but the staples are galvanized, greased somewhat and should never see rain.
The T50 staple system staples would definitely rust within days and are not capable of holding anything exposed to any wind but....
Has anybody ever seen a 3/8" T-50 staple that was completely sunk flush by any machine, yet? I doubt the staples are capable of being driven into, even soft woods, that deep without being crushed.
The aluminum installation compaines use steel screws painted white and made especially for aluminum installation. Use alum nails (painted) for smooth surfaces that look bad with machine bullet screw heads in rows.
I have been instructed not to use aluminum directly on PT pine lumber, either, due to electro-galvanic reactions eating it away. --------------------------
On Sunday, April 3, 2011 11:52:35 AM UTC-7, Doug White wrote: Don't do that. Flashing is usually for wet areas, and dissimilar metals (like steel staples against aluminum) are not going to last. Rather, pierce the flashing with a punch and use aluminum nails. Galvanized (zinc surface) is maybe OK if you keep it dry, like with a dab of tar/caulk/sealant.
-------------------------- "whit3rd" wrote in message
I need to staple thin aluminum flashing to pine.
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And then use stainless staples so no rust, and no electrolisis

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"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

------------------------------- T-50 S/S available at West Marine, if not your local hardware.
Lew
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I picked up some stainless steel T-50 staples at Home Depot the other day.
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Bite the bullet and get air. So much better, and you can get smaller nailers for reasonable that do a LOT of work you used to do manually. You will also do BETTER work. Little pancake compressors can be had used for cheap if you just shop around.
Friend of mine bought a new Porter Cable pancake, and three new nailguns, 1", 2", and 3" for $135 at a hock shop.
Get one. You know you want it.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? www.cabgbypasssurgery.com
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I need a bit more precision than a hammer stapler can provide (at least in my hands). I need to hit an area about 1/4" high by an inch or so wide.
The only wide-crown vaguely conventional staple guns I've found are a Black & Decker and a Duo-Fast. The latter got one glowing review on Amazon, and the guy compared it to a couple of other narrow crown guns, including the T50:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
He claims it has much better penetration than the T50, so I think I'll give it a try.
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I got the Duo-Fast, and I like it! It is easier to operate than my T50, and has a couple of additional nice features. It has a knob on top that allows you to dial in the power needed for a given job, and it has a mechanism so you can pop it open to clear a jam easily. With the power cranked all the way up, it gives significantly better penetration than the T50, with less firing effort.
The Duo-Fast staples are "chisel point", which means the tips are just ground to a wedge, parallel to the stack. I'm used to the T50 "divergent point" staples, where each staple has a sharp point cut 90 degrees from the orientation of the points on the chisel point staples. Each side is cut with the point in the opposite direction, so they tend to splay as they go in. This is supposed to give better holding power. I originally thought the divergent point ones would also have better penetration through the aluminum flashing I was working with. Arrow sells wide crown divergent point staples for Duo-Fast guns, although the box doesn't list the CS5000. I bought some to try, and they seem to work OK, although the very first one jammed (it may also have been the last of the chisel points from before). In any event, the quick jam clearing feature worked very nicely, and I didn't have a problem after that. Penetration of the two styles of staples was pretty much indistinguishable. I didn't try prying them out, so I don't know if the divergent points hold appreciably better. I doubt I could tell the difference with just a screw driver.
When stapling flashing to soft pine, the variable power feature was very nice. I could easily adjust it so that the bottom of the staple was just flat & in contact against the flashing, or crank it up so they were driven flush across the top (which stresses the aluminum, and is probably weaker, although esthetically nicer). If I hit a harder or softer piece of pine, I could tweak the power to suit.
All in all, I consider it a significant improvement over my old T50, and it has become my staple gun of choice for future projects.
Doug White
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Good to know. Thanks Karl
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Doug White wrote:

The springs get weak in those guns as they get old. Try a new gun and see what happens.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
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wrote:

<snip>
Hello Doug,
If there is a 1/2" version of the Arrow Power-Shot, and if it gets reasonable reviews...
I have the 3/8" Power-Shot and for hands that aren't as strong as they once were, it is definitely an improvement. Much easier to squeeze.
(OT: they now make manual desk staplers that don't require one to hammer the thing with a fist. Similar in nature to the Power Shot. I bought one a year ago, works very well. Have to guard it to make sure that it doesn't walk away. ;-)) -- Best -- Terry
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What make and model?
Thanks,
Joe Gwinn
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