Best way to repair badly designed gate

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On Jun 13, 10:41am, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

I like IrfanView as well, but for most things Picasa is the simplest solution I've found. Unless I have something very specific to do where I need to use more than one application to do it, I use Picasa.
It imports your pictures automatically when you put the card in your computer (not just importing to a folder), the editing functions are fairly robust for a simple program (it's not Photoshop), all editing is reversible, it will upload to your free Picasa web albums, automatic resizing when uploading, etc., etc.
R
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WARNING, THIS IS AN ON TOPIC POST!!
I only saw one regular size post at abpw. What I saw among other things were a bungee cord, obviously a subsitute for the broken latch. And brick surface.
I am going to suggest something that worked for me. It may or may not work for you.
My gate was dragging on the ground. The gate was quite heavy. The post and hinges were very strong, albeit at a slight angle. And like you, I hade a gate latch that barely worked.
Being a farmboy, who used to make BIG gates as a kid, I used a little farmboy logic. I went to Ace Hardware and ordered a "Gate Caster (or Castor)". This is a hard rubber wheel that bolts to the gate. It lifts and supports the gate. It has a spring to adjust the tension. If you make the spring tight, the gate closes at about a tenth of the speed of it swinging freely. This was an unintended effect in my case. But still far superior to what existed before. And the reduced speed, slight extra effort to close the gate, may be just what you need.
I also bought the biggest, baddest gate latch they had. MUCH bigger and stronger than that little peice of junk hardware that you have on your gate. Back in the day, they did not make junk like that. Now you have to look for a beefy alternative or special order them. Again, I found both items ate Ace hardware.
Take some good measurements. You will need some big bolts to to fasten the gate caster. (And maybe a helping hand to mount it.) I used small latg screws to mount the heavy duty gate latch. It sloved my problem. I an foggy on the price, but is seemed to me that I paid about $40 - $50 for the everything. Make sure you have a drill bit long enough to drill the necessary holes. I used both locking washers and some kind of locking nut on the bolts. Be sure to drill pilot holes for your gate latch. And get extra long and BIGGER screws for the gate latch.
Remember, this ain't art. Just get the biggest, baddest stuff you can buy and mount it with beefy fasteners. You are big. You are bad. You are macho. Now go kick some ass!
After that, I feel tired. I think I will go take a nap. <VBG>
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I block scripts too.
For may find it significant that I've been using computers since 1982 and have NEVER gotten a virus.

I have my own website, which I post photos too. Free websites are available to anyone.

I wouldn't need lower resolution, but there are people limited to POTS dial-up.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us
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On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 23:23:30 -0700, Smitty Two

I use IrfanView on the PC.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us
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"Mark Lloyd" wrote:

Seconded.
Jon
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wrote:

Flickr
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Post some pictures of your golf net so people will know you follow through. :)
R
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wrote:

Post some pictures of your golf net so people will know you follow through. :)
R
-end of previous posts- R, Wouldn't he have to post a video of his swing so people could tell if he follows through? ;-) Kerry
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...snip...

My thoughts (but please don't take this as gospel!)
Is it necessary that the gate be latched closed, or merely that it stay closed? If the latter, perhaps a self-closing hinge of some sort--I'd probably choose a double-direction one if it were me--would be an ideal answer. No latch, no banging, no nothing. Lee Valley has such a "Double-Acting Hinge" in their Gate Hardware section.
If that won't work, I might be tempted to see about introducing some sort of buffer material in the hinges; a thin piece of leather, say, glued to one of the leaves. If it's in the middle of the hinge, I don't think it would tend to rip them off/apart all that much, and if sized right, it could provide some added dampening for the latch.
Another possibility might be a different style of latch, one that requires manual intervention to activate. One old design uses an offset vertical rod on the gate and a ring held captive in a handle-like piece on the post. To latch, the ring is lifted and slipped over the vertical rod of the gate, encircling it and the bit on the post. Another possibility is some kind of a trough arrangement that hinges down from the post over the top of the gate.
Of the ideas you posted, I think the doorstop ones (whether one built into the ground or a stop plank added on to the post) are the most practical. The stop plank may tend to work loose from the post or split and break from the banging of the gate if not sufficiently well sized or attached.
--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
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WTF? Advertisements, and a huge file I have to download? Buy a vowel. Get a clue. Put it on Flickr, or photobucket, or any commonly used format on the Internet, and I'll give you some advice.
Steve (former steel erection contractor, welder, construction magnet)

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