The following illustrates the problem:
These are the inside of drawer holders, and not going to be seen. Thanks Alan
Admitedly this dialup guy didn't wait for them to load completely, but are you referring to the case-hardened areas (lighter, because less absorbent) left you by the big drum sander? If so, try setting them up with water prior to sanding.
An alcohol-based sealer would help on two levels, slowing absorbtion in the non-burnished, and giving a mild water set to the burnished and hardened.
This is a sanding problem. A conditionaer/wash/sealer might help a bit but sanding them out is the only real solution.
You can use a rag with mineral spirits to wipe the raw boards and see what they'll look like finished, always a good step before staining. As you sand out the bumps, you can check your progress by wiping again.
looks like the factory drum sander marks to me. go out and get yourself a good random orbit sander. I have the PC right angle one- it works well, as do some others.
This one needs some experimentation. The main issue is the type of stain you're using. In general, that shellac washcoat you're suggesting will help, and will probably do better than most conditioners. In general with this issue, I take some scrap first and give it a light coat of 1/2# cut. Then give
4/5 of it another coat, then 3/5 another, and so >The following illustrates the problem:
Doesn't matter, I'm on a 6-7 MB/s unrestricted DSL "test line", with it's own OC3 back to a Global Service Provider POP, and it still took a long time for the photo to paint.
It's CLASSIC birch blotch.
I always seal birch with full strength Seal Coat, and use high quality Behlen's or Mohawk stains, which are dry brushed to even them out. It would have prevented this problem as well.
Barry
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