Best way to clean band saw blades?

So, this band saw I just picked up came with about 15 blades. They probably sat in the garage for a few years and got pretty rusty. Right now, I have them soaking in some lubricant spray.
What's the best way to get that rust off? With my imagination, I was thinking of maybe cutting through something that would be abrasive, but it would certainly dull the blades.
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-MIKE-

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If they are rusty, they ARE dull.

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CW wrote:

I hear ya. But I'm the kind of guy that will sit and watch TV or listen to Jazz, with a file and a blade and just go to town. I've sharpened *wood* bandsaw blades to like new condition.
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"-MIKE-" wrote:

Phosphoric acid such as found in Navel Jelly or Osphro, but don't expect the resulting blade to cut anything.
Lew
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LOL! OK Lew, cause I'm just cleaning the to look at 'em. :-)
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wrote:

If rags and kerosene don't remove it, try a product containing oxalic acid (Bar Keepers Friend, Zud, navel jelly, etc). I'd probably toss the blade if the rust made deep pits or with missing/damaged teeth.
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Phisherman wrote:

Most of them just have light surface rust. I already threw out the really bad ones.
I figured if they were still sharp (or I sharpened them), I just don't want the rust coming off on whatever I'm cutting.
If it's not a good idea, no biggie. I got such a good deal on the saw, I can buy new blades.
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-MIKE-

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-MIKE- wrote:

I've never tried it, but my inclination would be to install the blade (without too much concern for adjusting it) then run it while pressing some 220 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper against each side (and perhaps the back) of the blade. Affixing the sandpaper to something that would keep your fingers clear of the area might be a good idea too. :-) Of course, this isn't going to clean the teeth, but I would think that cutting some scrap wood (and maybe sharpening them as you mentioned elsewhere) would help clear out most of the loose rust in the "toothal" area.
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Steve Turner wrote:

Drummers think alike.... except for "toothal." :-)
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just use it once. then sharpen it . and keep using it
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A bit more involve but easier on the blades is electrolysis. Yea, I know that it remind you of moustache hair on granda but, no, it's not the same. Try here http://woodworkstuff.net/RustRemoval.html The last link is of no use unless you need to make washing soda but it's available everywhere. I prefer link number 2 but they're both useful.
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What kind of guides does you BS have. Stationary ceramic guides will clean them right up by simply running and cutting with the blade on the saw.
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Leon wrote:

I didn't think of that. They are block guides. Makes sense, since they are perfectly set up to only scrape behind the toothal (tm: Steve Turner) area.
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I use a very coarse terrycloth towel and WD-40. The rougher the towel the better. It is just abrasive enough to remove the rust (woth the help of the WD-40) but is nor abrasive enough to actually scratch the surface. This metod won't be of much use if there is pitting or heavy rust. It also works on firearms that have light surface rust. It will clean the rust without removing the blueing (and stuff like Navel Jelly or oxalic acid certainly *will* remove the blueing!).
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Dan Major wrote:

So, steel wool would be bad for the blades?
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Being basically lazy, I'd either trash them and buy news ones for $12 - 15 apiece, or just try using one on a piece of scrap..
IF the blade is still sharp (probably not if it's badly rusted) my only concern would be rust on the wood I'm cutting, and being a turner, that isn't a big deal..
I use a whetstone on each side and the back of new blades to make sure the weld is ok... WITH THE SAW OFF... Hold the whetstone against the blade and turn the upper wheel by hand..
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It's more likely the rust will stain your workpiece than that it involves enough material to really hurt the blade.
Mount the blade, make a few cuts in a scrap, and finish up by holding a pencil eraser against the non-cutting faces of the blade.
It might help to wipe down the clean blade with a waxy cloth or bunch of waxed paper before putting it away.
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