Best router for a router table


What are folks opinions on the best router for a router table? I'm looking for ease of adjustment from the top of the table and bit changing from the top.
Tim
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You want to do it with just the router or in combination with a lift? If you use a lift, most any router will work. If you want that feature "built in" your choices are more limited.
Porter Cable is one http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?eT7&pH58 I've not seen it so I have no idea how well it is to adjust. If you go that way, see if you can adapt your drill tot he bit used for raising and lowering it. I have a Benchdog lift and can run it up in a few seconds to change bits. Very handy.
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Triton TRC001
Milwaukee 5625-20
Porter Cable 895PK
The other choice is to get a PC 7518 and good lift kit (about $200+ more expensive).
All of the router choices have pros and cons. There is no perfect router.
Bob
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The best router is the one you already own. I use a PC 895 which allows you to adjust the router from the top of the table provided that the plate has the correct holes drilled in it. The only problem I have had is that dust tends to accumulate around the power switch. The power switch must be turned off to allow the mechanism to work, and too much dust clogs the switch (a slide switch) such that it can't be moved. Thus the router jams and won't move.
The solution is, of course, to keep the switch clean. That is what I do now that I have identified the reason.
Sometimes the router drops down slightly when I open the lock, but that is of small importance. I am, after all, going to move the router up to change the bit.
Jim
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The switch must be in the off position as opposed to cutting the power with an auxiliary switch? While a good safety measure, it would be a PITA when making a series of small adjustments if the router is enclosed.
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wrote in message

Yes to both questions. After this happened a few times, I learned to keep that switch free of dust.
It does seem that PC uses this method to insure that the router is turned off. Mine is not only turned off, it is also unplugged from AC power. Jim
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Tim Sauerwein wrote:

PC7518 + PRL or similar deluxe router lift.
Dave
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Hi Tim, I haven't checked recently, but, when I bought my last table router the Triton was the best bang for the buck. JG
Tim Sauerwein wrote:

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Yeah, that's the conclusion I came to when I bought mine.
Triton + router table plate = $269 (one time sale at amazon) + $70 = $339 total
Porter Cable 7518 + bench dog router lift = $300 +$325 = $625 total
It was a hands-down value proposition for me, not a selection of the best. I took the savings and bought the Veritas router table and fence.
Besides, Leon uses a Triton. :-)
Bob
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Well, that's not really a apples to apples comparison for someone asking for advice today.
What it should be is
Triton TRC001 ($319) + router table plate ($70) = $389 Total
Porter Cable 895PK ($269) + router table plate ($70) = $339 Total
So the PC has the advantage today - pricewise.
I'm looking at the PC 895PK, but so far no one here has reviewed it.
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That is certainly not an equal comparison either. The Triton has way more power than the PC895's The comparison of the Triton to the bigger PC is at least in the same class of router.
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Moneywise, it is hard to beat the hitachi m12v. It has been on sale for around $160 for months now and I recently saw an amazon coupon somewhere to knock it down further. I have 3 of these (router table, freehand and CNC), great power, variable speed and soft start. Haven't had any issues yet, my router table unit is probably 7 years old already. I removed the springs, waxed the guides and removed a few other unnecessary parts. The height adjust knob is okay, not really ideal for 0.01 inch adjustments, just have to use trial and error. I made my own at the time, now it is included (I got one last winter for my CNC). In combo with a lift would solve that issue. jaime
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The other great value, I think, is the Freud FT2000E 3-1/4 HP plunge router. $169 at Amazon. Micro-adjust knob works well for fine depth settings.
It's my only router right now, but I'm thinking about making it the permanent table fixture, and getting another, smaller router for handheld. PC690? Gonna searach the archives for feedback on that one.
FYI, Chris
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And that last statement blows the price advantage. The cheapest solution I've seen is a router raizer or Lee Valley bit jack which adds another $90-$100 to the cost.
Bob
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Hi Bruce. I think my point was valid but perhaps subtle. The OP asked for routers to use in a table. A bare PC 7518 sucks for table use, if you don't provide some add-on means for adjusting the height. I betcha every person who brags about their 7518 in a table has spent at least $100 extra (over and above the plate) to address height adjustment. The three routers I originally mentioned can be used satisfactorily in a table right out of the box. My quick view on them:
Triton - power for big bits, the best above the table bit change period, excellent micro-adjust
Milwaukee - power for big bits, known for falling out of its base if you don't hold it with your hand when doing coarse adjustments, micro-adjust is a bit coarse compared to the Triton
PC 895 - insufficient power for big bits, great design - poor manufacturing (too many report experience with plastic parts breaking).
Bob
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Festool has to be top dog for expense. Triton appears over all recommended. Porter-Cable most widely used.
But I'm very happy with my $158. Milwaukee 5616.
But the Table can make a bad router look good or a good router look bad!

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