best price on starrett 36" straightedge


anyone find a good price recently on the 36" non beveled edge?
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On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 10:33:41 -0700, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

it can be hard to find good prices on such items. ebay can be good but I just checked http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA 413531&PMCTLG do you really need a starrett? made in the us http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PMSECT 00001475 if your doing woodworking any of these is far more then enough. I used a starrett when I made straightedges. but it is a bit overkill. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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Yeah, but if you do metalworking as well, none of the cheap products are nearly as repeatable or accurate.
Steve knight wrote:

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wrote:

I did not say cheap. I just said not starrett. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
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On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 09:36:38 -0800, Steve knight wrote:

Steve is correct. Check out the Mititoyo brand as well. Also Lufkin. Even a General will be within .005 ... probably no more than a couple thou out.
There are also techniques for verifying & correcting straightness by either direct measurement or by comparing them to two other reference edges.
It's how the old-timers made their own straight edges and flats.
Bill
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W Canaday wrote:

If 0.005 is all you want, just buy some precision ground flat stock of a thickness and width sufficient to give you the warm fuzzies. You can even get Starrett's version of it. :)
There is even a pre-hardened version...
er
--
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nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

There's an outfit called J & L: Industrial that sells them...I paid $105 for mine a few months ago. But you HAVE to wait for one of their "Buy 5 items, get 25% off" sale. By the straightedge and little items and you're on your way. Or sometimes they put all precision measuring instruments on sale for 25% off.
Without that sale, they're expensive.
Their site is http://www.jlindustrial.com/...get on their e-mailing list and they'll send you an announcement on the sale. Happens about every three or four weeks.
For the record, it's a tool I wouldn't be without. It's only defect is that it isn't five feet long... :-)
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thanks.. I had heard about that site.. so I'll keep my eyes open.
I have the Lee Valley aluminum.. but I'm thinking to return it.. for another $60 I'll have the best of the best... and can forget about it.
On 25 Jan 2006 06:42:38 -0800, wood snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

How much of a difference does it actually make? Assuming you don't bang it around, will the aluminum one go out of whack with just regular use?
Chris
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yeah... I know.. I've contemplated this for too long.
The 1st SL I got from LV had noticeable twist. They sent a 2nd. It's as true as my jointer bed ;-) (a Jet 6").
The problem I see is most everything I'll be referencing to it will be iron or steel, in the case of cast iron, the steel Starret will have the hardness edge, for other steel, at least it will be even. The AL edge will almost always be the softer. So eventualy, the Al one is going to end up with a nick.. probably a few thous. I can always knock it off, but it won't be long before I have a 36" edge that's no better than +/- .005, and I'd like to have better.
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:20:27 -0600, Chris Friesen

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On 2006-01-27 13:09:22 -0500, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net said:

...until the first time you drop it.
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that is one nice thing about the LV.. it's hollowed out slightly.. makes a nice grip.. whereas the Starret appears to be a solid chunk. The piont about dropping is well taken..
wrote:

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wood snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Mine isn't either... :)
dave
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sale is on now...
should I get beveled or not?
I need a cheap telescoping guage set.. but what other inexpensive 3 items would be good "filler"
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nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net (in snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com) said:
| sale is on now... | | should I get beveled or not? | | I need a cheap telescoping guage set.. but what other inexpensive 3 | items would be good "filler"
How about a pair of magnetic bases to hold a featherboard?
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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I could use a 12" 4R or similar rule.. but the options are staggering.. on their website..
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nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

I got the Starrett 6" hook rule...it lives in my hands.
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Alright.. I got the Starrett 36" nonbevel nongraduated edge. Nice piece of steel. I need to go lay if across the jointer bed and see if it's straight ;-)
In defense of the Lee Valley 38" aluminum flavor.. 1st I got it for $35 at a WW show.. so no shipping. The Starret was $106 + shipping; call it $10 since most of the weight was the Starret (used the 25% off deal at JLindustrial).
So.. $35 vs $116 (though I see the LV is now about $40).
The Starret is a 7/32" wide, the LV 7/16". 7/32" is tough to sit upright w/o support. I might end up fitting up some wooden "training wheels" to prevent it from tipping over and tumbling off whatever I'm leveling. If I leave the "outriggers" a tad shy of the reference edge, they won't effect the measurement, but they will be in the way.
The Starret is steel, LV aluminum (though LV has a steel 24" one available, but I really wanted 36" +).
The Starret is a "block" of steel, somewhat hard to grap ahold of; the LV is hollowed out in the center; easier to grab and hang onto.
The Starret is solid; the LV has a hole to hang it up.
If my 1st go-around w/ the LV would have been good (my 1st one had detectable twist in it), I probably would have never questioned it's accuracy.
The LV has a lot more "useability features", the Starret, hopefully.. is more accurate and a once in a LT purchase.
For general use, where the risk of damaging is inherent, and accuracy is so-so, the LV would be my choice. Since I now have the Starret, I'll have to make sure I don't use it for any of those cases ;-)
On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 10:33:41 -0700, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

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