Best material to use for a deck

I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.

We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Reply to
Dick Snyder
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IPE... it ages very well and will last a VERY long time.

It is tough on cutting tools will require several blades and bits.

It costs more than SYP and may be hard to fine depending on your location.

PT SYP is still the cheapest and most durable for the money.

I looked at composites and after comparing (1) board at $18.95 vs 5.95 for PT SYP, I had a change of heart. That is very significant when you start using 50-60 boards just for the top.

If you can find it, I would use KD pressure treated pine.

I also used a under the board mounting system(Deck Master) and that improved the looks 200%.

Cedar is waaay too soft for a deck board.

Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.

IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.

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should not take you l> I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but

Reply to
Pat Barber

I did an ipe deck last year, and am in the middle of another one now. Both are replacements for cedar decs that didn't make the 20-year mark. Ipe is tougher and more time consuming to work than softer woods. It is heavy, hard, and requires carbide tools. On the other hand, it should outlast cedar--maybe by 2-to-1. It greys nicely in a couple of seasons, and since it is normally supplied clear (no knots), and comes in 20+ foot lengths, it gives a very nice uniform surface with few if any butt joints.

Special invisible (almost) fasteners are not cheap, and require additional step of slotting the edges (unless you buy the stock pre-slotted). This adds to the cost and time to install.

Reply to
ed_h

Dick. The issue with PT lumber is overstated and mainly due to incorrect treatment before and after installation. If you buy good quality (kiln dried before and after treatment), PT lumber and seal it before use and on a regular basis afterwards, there is very little, if any, danger from the chemicals used to preserve it. The main danger with PT occurs when poor quality PT is used in the first place and when it is not sealed. Also, the appearance is much improved by the sealant and the annual maintenance regime allows you the opportunity to repair or remove any damage, splintering, etc. Furthermore, I suggest you use a low VOC sealant (such as Deck and Shake) some of which are safe enough to drink! FYI, I have no commercial interest in this issue but did a lot of research a couple of years back while involved in building a community playground.

Jim

Reply to
jfroche

Two years ago I bought mahogany and it was 30¢ a linear foot cheaper than ipe. $1.89 versus $2.19. I'm sure both are higher today.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Ipe. It will grey and will last for 50 years untreated. Ipe is also sold as decking material in 5/4 thicknesses and rounded on the edges.

Reply to
Leon

Just a thought, but has anybody ever done or seen a deck made out of the Eastern cedar? The red/white good smelling fence post cedar?

Reply to
Tim Taylor

I made fence pickets from it. It splits too easily and has lots of knots. Its also hard to get lengths and widths suitable to cover very much deck.

I've used Trex and treated. Wish it was all Trex!

Reply to
Woodhead

Well, I was just wondering. I got a buddy that has a 300' old hog barn full of 5, 6, 7, and 8 quarter stuff, in lengths 10' to 20' or so. It'd be pretty I think, and I do need to replace my decking. Again, just curious.

Reply to
Tim Taylor

My deck is cedar and looks like new. We wash it every spring with bleach, soap and water in equal volumes. Here in Maine, Eastern White Cedar is $1.00 per bf rough. Our decking is 2 inch and I would not trade it for any other material.

Reply to
Dave W

Dave, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of it would you? I've looked everywhere and can't find one made out of it. The way I figure, if it holds up using it as fence posts, it would surely stand up to a seldom used deck. And I believe Maine has a little more harsh winters than Kentucky.

Reply to
Tim Taylor

Tim,

Are you referring to Eastern White Cedar that comes from the northeast or aromatic red cedar (juniper) that grows like a weed here in Kentucky?

I was referring to juniper when I said it splits easily. Its used for cedar chests and closet linings. Keep bugs out and smells great.

Reply to
Woodhead

How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?

Reply to
CyBrShRk

I haven't but I will offer that IME PT fence posts (These are the old CCA variety) set directly in the ground will last through at least

3 sets of cedar pickets.
Reply to
lwasserm

IPE is great, but 2 things to be careful with this material.

  1. Wear a dust mask. I had a nagging cough that wouldn't go away for a few weeks when I worked with this.

  1. Wear Gloves. This wood is the worst when it comes to producing hard, needle like splinters. Make sure all surfaces that children would contact are sanded smooth.

Reply to
Todd the wood junkie

Jim, Yes, that's the type I was referring to, the red cedar. I really didn't know it was juniper though. The same buddy of mine that has a hog barn full of it, is planking his house with it and it looks really good. He's had the majority of it finished for a couple years and the smell is gone, but it's still pretty. I've made some outdoor furniture with it, adirondack chairs, swing, regular garden chairs and the like, and also a cedar chest, and it's holding up real good. I never had a problem with it splitting though. As I said, I've just been tossing the idea around. He owes me, my deck does need redoing, so what better payment than wood. But, I'm not real fond of having to redo it again in a few years. That's why I was asking. BTW, the decking is going to be 2 by thickness, and the privacy walls would be 3/4.

Reply to
Tim Taylor

I posted a note on an IPE deck earlier this year "IPE DEck Finished" with a link to pics.

It's great stuff if a bit expensive.

Regards.

Reply to
Tom Banes

Jest because he kant spel good duznt mean he has bad stuf. Sumtime peeple put too much emfisis on educashun, knot reel jobs. Dont be a prejoodished snob.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

I've ordered significant quantities from them twice, and was well satisfied both times. They are helpful on the phone, too.

Reply to
ed_h

I just googled and found your posting. The wood looks kind of like the color of redwood. I have seen ipe decks and they are grey (with age). Does ipe look like that in your pictures when it is new or did you apply some kind of finish? Your project looks great by the way!

Reply to
Dick Snyder

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