Best jointing glue.

I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8" wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably with urethane.

Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small domestic bar top.

Many thanks,

Peter.

Reply to
PVR
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All of those glues are stronger than the wood.

I do my glue-ups with standard yellow glue, including doors that get milled and large table tops, and I've never had a glue failure.

Reply to
B A R R Y

Yellow carpenter's glue. I use Elmer's. When cured, the joint line will be stronger than the wood, if applied and clamped properly.

Reply to
Phisherman

All the glues will be strong enough HOWEVER if the joint line is not perfect TiteBondIII will dry to a color that more closely match Oak than most of the others. It dries to a medium brown color rather than clear or yellow.

Reply to
Leon

The most important thing is to make sure that the mating surfaces of the two boards match each other as closely as possible. You want as small of a gap as possible between the boards. Ideally, it should be possible to close any gaps using just hand pressure.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Friesen

You "shall use purchased red oak"? Where are you from?

Any glue is fine.

Reply to
Toller

feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Yellow glue's fine. Make the joints even more invisible by gluing up from three boards instead of two, since your eyes tend to go to the center of a board.

The tightest and flattest joints are made with a hand plane, with the jointed boards clamped together and planed at the same time. Even a block plane will do a better job than a jointer.

Reply to
Father Haskell

Wed, Aug 8, 2007, 5:48am snipped-for-privacy@.adelphia.com (PVR) doth stumble in and seemingly casts out with: I wish to make a board I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. Which glue is best for this jointing project? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small domestic bar top.

I wish I could do card tricks.

I think you mean "joining". Do you mean you're going to make various clamps? Or do you mean you're going to use various clamps during the"joining" of the two boards? Punctuation IS important.

If you brace it under, then it will be strong enough. If you don't brace it under, I'd hate to count on my beer bottle not tipping over. What is a "domestic" bar top? One that's trained, or used only for domestic beer, or what?

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them. - Picasso

Reply to
J T

Wed, Aug 8, 2007, 3:59pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@Yahoo.com (Toller) doth query: You "shall use purchased red oak"? Where are you from?

It ain't from anywhere around here, that's for damn sure.

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them. - Picasso

Reply to
J T

Try TiteBond III, it's waterproof. Most other plain generic yellow glues won't be--at least not after significant wetting and moisture. Since you are going to use it as a bar top (i.e. spilled drinks, water rings from glasses, etc), having the glue joint dissolve or weaken due to moisture exposure would be bad.

Just my opinion....

Reply to
Angello Huong

Wherever you are, that makes the OP a lucky man!

FoggyTown

Reply to
FoggyTown

Ye must mind your P's and Q's, as ye Olde English writs be held in high regard!

Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words

Reply to
B A R R Y

Oak and maple are 'sweet' woods; if any water gets in, they will support molds, and black marks are likely. For a bar, resinous woods are usually preferred (mahogany, or teak, or ipe). That said, an oak glue-up with water-intolerant glues will be fine as long as the finish coat is impermeable. I've never thought satin urethane was ugly.

Of course, if the finish coat IS impermeable, you could top the bar with a sheet of plywood and get good appearance and adequate durability.

Reply to
whit3rd

On Aug 9, 7:12 am, B A R R Y wrote: [schnipferized]

Why am I hearing Shelley Long's voice echo in my brain?

Reply to
Robatoy

Where are YOU from? I pray thee and I wouldst urge thee to reconsider thy course and that thine word would benefiteth from being spelt "suggesteth".

;-)

Bill

Reply to
BillinDetroit

It's for his servants ... the 'domestics'.

Reply to
BillinDetroit

Fri, Aug 10, 2007, 12:07am snipped-for-privacy@nmwoodworks.com (BillinDetroit) doth sayeth: It's for his servants ... the 'domestics'.

Wonderful, drunk servants.

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them.

- Picasso

Reply to
J T

Thu, Aug 9, 2007, 2:29am (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (FoggyTown) doth pass on: Wherever you are, that makes the OP a lucky man!

No biggie. I've been down here since '79, and still hear, "Where you from?".

JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them.

- Picasso

Reply to
J T

The woman I worked with was no Shelly Long. 8^(

This woman was extremely intelligent, but in true nerd fashion, would sometimes wear the same sweater for a week. Eeeewwwwwwwwwww!

Reply to
B A R R Y

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