Best jointing glue.

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I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8" wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably with urethane.
Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small domestic bar top.
Many thanks,
Peter.
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PVR wrote:

All of those glues are stronger than the wood.
I do my glue-ups with standard yellow glue, including doors that get milled and large table tops, and I've never had a glue failure.
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wrote:

Yellow carpenter's glue. I use Elmer's. When cured, the joint line will be stronger than the wood, if applied and clamped properly.
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All the glues will be strong enough HOWEVER if the joint line is not perfect TiteBondIII will dry to a color that more closely match Oak than most of the others. It dries to a medium brown color rather than clear or yellow.
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PVR wrote:

The most important thing is to make sure that the mating surfaces of the two boards match each other as closely as possible. You want as small of a gap as possible between the boards. Ideally, it should be possible to close any gaps using just hand pressure.
Chris
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Where are you from?
Any glue is fine.
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Thou shall get better adhesion (with any of the glues mentioned) if thou shall "freshen thine edge first". This is best done with a jointer but thou may also useth thine simple sandeth papier. I would suggesth "wood glue". and be sure to clampth thine planks whilst thy glue doest dryeth.

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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Ye must mind your P's and Q's, as ye Olde English writs be held in high regard!
Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words
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[schnipferized]

Why am I hearing Shelley Long's voice echo in my brain?
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Robatoy wrote:

The woman I worked with was no Shelly Long. 8^(
This woman was extremely intelligent, but in true nerd fashion, would sometimes wear the same sweater for a week. Eeeewwwwwwwwwww!
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Thank you very frickin' much for that mental invasion. Gawd, you poor man. She probably didn't go near a razor either, huh?
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wrote:

Rob is telepathic!
--------------------------------------------- ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html ** ---------------------------------------------
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Use the widest board in center rembering a HD 8" board is 7 1/4" and then add a 4 or 5" board to either side.As stated above this gets your eye off the seam in the dead center. biscuits are fine if it helps you align the board and you own the tool. Biscuits are not need to make it stronger. With proper clamping the top will be flat with or without bisquits. I would add a 2-3" piece of Oak under the leading edge on all four sides if design allows. This will give a beefer look which I think is right for a bar top not to mention alot of added strenght. On the under piece I would miter the corners and when done use a rasp to soften the corners by rounding them some. If your looking to increase your skills drop a small walnut inlay on the front edge. Do this before you mitre so If you dont like it flip it.
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Where are YOU from? I pray thee and I wouldst urge thee to reconsider thy course and that thine word would benefiteth from being spelt "suggesteth".
;-)
Bill
--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com
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Wed, Aug 8, 2007, 3:59pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@Yahoo.com (Toller) doth query: You "shall use purchased red oak"? Where are you from? <snip>
It ain't from anywhere around here, that's for damn sure.
JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them. - Picasso
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On Aug 9, 12:50?am, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

Wherever you are, that makes the OP a lucky man!
FoggyTown
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Thu, Aug 9, 2007, 2:29am (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (FoggyTown) doth pass on: Wherever you are, that makes the OP a lucky man!
No biggie. I've been down here since '79, and still hear, "Where you from?".
JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them. - Picasso
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Yellow glue's fine. Make the joints even more invisible by gluing up from three boards instead of two, since your eyes tend to go to the center of a board.
The tightest and flattest joints are made with a hand plane, with the jointed boards clamped together and planed at the same time. Even a block plane will do a better job than a jointer.
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Wed, Aug 8, 2007, 5:48am snipped-for-privacy@.adelphia.com (PVR) doth stumble in and seemingly casts out with: I wish to make a board <snip> I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. <snippity> Which glue is best for this jointing project? <snippity snip> I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small domestic bar top.
I wish I could do card tricks.
I think you mean "joining". Do you mean you're going to make various clamps? Or do you mean you're going to use various clamps during the"joining" of the two boards? Punctuation IS important.
If you brace it under, then it will be strong enough. If you don't brace it under, I'd hate to count on my beer bottle not tipping over. What is a "domestic" bar top? One that's trained, or used only for domestic beer, or what?
JOAT I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do them. - Picasso
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J T wrote:

It's for his servants ... the 'domestics'.
--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com
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