Best Brand and Style Table Saw blade for fine woodcutting

What are your opinions of a top notch table saw blade for making very fine cuts with expensive wood i.e. Purple Heart, Ivory, Black Walnut, etc? I've heard the Pirahna by Black and Decker is good but maybe you guys know of a better one.
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The Freud "Glueline" blade is excellent, it is meant to cut an edge ready for jointing, the resulting cut is excellent. Now I use this on a high end cabinet saw, but good results should be obtained on less expensive tools.
JMO

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Forrest WoodWorker II is a very good blade. Expect to pay $120 or so.
Frank
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WoodWorker II by Forrest Blades (www.forrestblades.com) is my personal favorite. Currently on sale for $94.99.

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I find Freud blades to be exceptional and far less expensive then Forrest brand. Freud has a nice website setup to help you choose the best blade for your needs.
http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/woodworkers.shtml
Kevin

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Kevin wrote:

Freud does make some good blades, but the top of the line Freud is actually more expensive than the Forrest Woodworker II. See:
http://www.freud-tools.com/freudpremfse.html
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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Everyone raves about the Forrest WWII so I'll have to try it someday but in the meantime, I'm very happy with my thin kerf CMT General.
Don

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Basspro* wrote:

I bought one of those Forrest WWII blades couple years back. It's the worst blade I've ever owned. It made my saw vibrate terribly bad. I put it on my radial saw and it worked a little better, but still vibrated. I like freud blades.
Donald
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You must have gotten a bad one I have 2 WW II both 40 tooth thin kerf. The first one I got 15 years ago, with 4 in stabilizer, it has 4 teeth missing and a little rusted but still cuts beautiful. The second one I got a year ago and it has at least .020 runout...........no matter how I mount it on the PM 66. I should send it back and have Forrest straighten it out. Too lazy I guess. Forrest's quality can be good sometimes and shitty the next. Beware.I would get one mount it and dial indicate it first on the saw. Don't worry about the stabilizer at that point. Make sure your arbor is running DEAD true also. If the blade has more than .002-.003 runout TAKE IT BACK. Try another WWII blade. I think the blades are great. I use more than one blade though, maybe 3-4 different one's but the WWII stays on the saw MOST of the time. If you have a saw with at least 3 HP go for the regular kerf blade.

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Signature line brings to forefront article in paper today saying Ashcroft and a PAC have agreed to pay a fine concerning their activities for his 2000 Senate race.
On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 23:55:11 -0600, Donald Phillips

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Speaking of Forest Blades, any reason why the founder's picture is not on the advertisements anymore?
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snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Basspro*) wrote in message

WWII, you won't regret it. Never will wonder "what would the forrest have done". I have been cutting purple heart with it and the cut is _better_ than hand planing most of it because of tearout from grain reversal with the hand planes.
Alan
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