Best bang for buck for squares and straightedges?

[<mslatter]

I've always set my tools up using whatever rulers and squares I have lying around the shop. Well, I caught one of my squares lying to me, so it's time to consider buying some new reference edges.

Well the prices of the Starrett and Pinske edges and squares was kind of shocking to me.

So where can I get the best bang for the buck for these things? For instance, I see Grizzly carries some at a more reasonable price

But are they worthless, or what? Just what kind of precision should I shoot for in setting up, say, ts or jointer? How long an edge, large a square should I look for? Is my best bet to use a specialty setup tool?

[Swingman]

In accuracy, you mostly get what you pay for ... but how much accuracy do you need? There are some reasonably priced engineer squares available at places like WoodCraft that are more than accurate enough for woodworking tasks and for setting up woodworking blades, bits, etc.

[Lowell Holmes]

I requested and got a Starrett 12" combination square for Christmas in 2002. It's worth every penny of the cost. Everything about it is superior to anything I had before. The peace of mind in knowing that it is square and I don't have to be concerned about it is great. I've made my mind up to get the 4" double square and be done with it. :-)

[mttt]

Me too. But you *will* have an accurate tool. After spending about $20 at Harbor Freight and others on imports - I gave up and bought the Starrett.

[Mark]

[Peter De Smidt]

I have an Incra square and am quite pleased with it. You can get them at woodcraft and other places. Also check out the Precision Indicating Squares at:

They seem reasonably priced.

-Peter De Smidt

[TeamCasa]

[David Hall]

Well, my set of three engineers squares from Harbor Freight are as square as my Starret combo square can measure.

Dave Hall

[<mslatter]

OK, not having much difficulty finding reasonably squares. Thanks everyone for the pointers! Lee Valley has a good collection of them for good prices.

Straight edges aren't leaping out of google the way I was hoping, though. Any help to offer there?

I've got a 6" jointer coming (maybe tomorrow...) so I'd like to get a hold of a good straight edge for setting it up, but don't want to drop another $100. I'm thinking 36" would be adequate, ya?

[Mark]

About the only place I know you can get a decent straight edge on a saturday morning is Grainger. (I think their open saturdays, I tried checking but the web sites down).

I was looking to replace the square head or buy a new combinati0on square setup. IIRC Woodworker had the Starrett combination with cast square head for ~ $70, Grainger had the combination set with a forged head for around the same price, or less.

LMAO.....

You won't get a relyable 36" long straight edge for $100.

A 24" Starrett is in the neighborhood of $80. The price of a good steel rule is not lineal.

[Bridger]

you got lucky. mine aren't.

[<mslatter]

Good tip. I'll see if I can find one when their site's back up.

Found one for $88 so far...

one I knew about before even asking. And stewmac's not known for their generous pricing, either. I was actually hoping to do better. SWMBO understands tools you use on wood. She doesn't understand tools you use on tools.

Would 24" be good enough for setting up most shop tools, especially a jointer with a 46" bed?

[Unisaw A100]

Mark

Absolutely right but you can get one that's dead on for the cost of a 2' X 4' MDF panel from (insert name of local MDF provider here). Look up an old article in Fine Woodworking on making a test bar from MDF and drywall screws. If memory serves me it was written by 'Chinery Guru John White. It involves taking three pieces of MDF and with screws along one edge and by checking the one against the next a reliable (and adjustable) test bar can be made.

This just >This one I knew about before even asking. And stewmac's not known for their

SWMBO has a point on this one though I say that with some reservation. You would be smart to hunt up a good combo square and take the advice above for the straight edge.

Again, make your own and make it the size you need.

Now, having said all of that, you'll still need a straight edge for routing/circular saw work but this can also be built from available sheet stock (MDF) as I would never use a store bought (Starrett) for this kind of work.

UA100

[Andy Dingley]

I'm sure they are. And as rigid squares, they certainly ought to be, for they're a lot easier to manufacture with good accuracy.

But try a "low end" combination square and you might as well use a carved stick.

-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

[Andy Dingley]

Most small engineer's squares are OK.

For a combination square, look for a cast iron head, not a diecast mazak one. Even if they're both made square initially, the mazak one will have trouble with warping or wear leading to inaccuracy where the rule is clamped into the stock.

-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

[Mark Jerde]

How many screws did they use on the 4' length? I understand the concept and plan to make a set.

-- Mark

[Unisaw A100]

Three.

UA100

[Mark Jerde]

Hummm... that doesn't seem like enough to level my jointer. It seems like there needs to be two on each side of the cutter head.

-- Mark

[David Hall]

The OP was asking about squares to set up equipment. That is what I use the engineer squares for.

Dave Hall

[Routerman P. Warner]

I'd say for close work, your work should be within .001" or .002"/foot. For rough work you can do a hell of a lot worse. Some novel set up tools at the links below:

and ********************************************************> I've always set my tools up using whatever rulers and squares I have lying